Scrod,

How horrible of an idea is it to ride tubulars on the street? Assuming you don't skid.

Terrible. What are you going to do when you get a flat?

/notscrod

Jaytron said pretty much what I would have. Why bother?

What do you think of the HED Belgium rims?

You just pull off the flat tire and put on your spare.

Replacing a flat tubular on the road is generally less of a problem than fixing a flat clincher on the road. The problem comes later when you go to fix the flat tubular. That's when you need to go through the hassle of finding the leak, cutting the stitching, fixing the leak, restitching, and re-applying the base tape. Back when I rode tubulars regularly I'd save up the flats and fix them in the off-season (generally only 2 or three per season).

But moderately priced modern clinchers seem to ride as well or better than cheap tubulars, so why bother?

Tubulars are still preferred for track racing, since they can be run at much higher pressures, even well over 200 psi, but most road racers now use clinchers. I still have tubulars on about half of my wheels, and still ride them regularly on the road. The last time I had a tubular flat on the road was close to 10 years ago. Tubulars are immune to pinch flats, which is the cause of many flats with clinchers, and are much safer in the event of a sudden flat, since they stay on the rim making it easier to control the bicycle. They are also great for cyclocross, since the tires can be run at very low pressures as well. Until you have ridden a bike with a premium quality silk casing tubular, you have not experienced the ultimate in ride quality and performance.

They're extremely cheap and I need a second set of rims. Figured why not.

Ewps, I made some of the paint come off the frame. :| May have overtightened it.

I think i figured out why the post was slipping though, the paint had came off the seat post because I'm an idiot and forgot to grease it during the initial install, although I thought I did. Anyways, I think the paint that had come off the post was causing it to slip. I cleaned it up and greased it, hopefully it'll work fine now.

I think they look pretty cool - like a KinLin with a wider profile - but I have no experience with them.

Also - they're a little too pricey, especially considering A23s are about 50g lighter and half the cost.

Sorry...missed this one. I've always thought the Cream City frame is awesome and $699 is a realistic price for a Waterford-built frameset.

Extremely pricey, but some ****** alloy rims!
For veloplugs which colors fit which rims exactly?

Hey scrod, a 28.6mm clamp should be in the ballpark for a steel frame that takes a 27.2 post right? Just running this across before I buy.

Jdg and I encountered the same problem with this Steamroller, which measured about 30mm on the OD of the clamp area

Talk about a brain fart; especially when I have a mitutoyo digital caliper arggh
Scratch the question; I'll measure it myself to be absolutely sure as I heard guessing over the internet is hazardous to one's health ahah

Aw, I just went to your site, Scrod, to see if you were still doing the Kinlin build kits, but it doesn't look like you have those anymore.

When did you take those down? I've been gone a while.

scrod what's your opionion on running a threaded 1" carbon fork on a steel frame?

Wrong thread to be asking.

I have no problem with it - unless you plan on using some wonky looking aero-bladed thing on a lugged frame or something.

Typically it's 30mm.

Scrod,

Are off-center rims (like velocity's aero o/c) worth it, or is the difference negligible/gimmicky? I get the idea behind it but I'm still curious.

On a wheel built for SS/FG use - where the wheel is built with the rim centered between the hub flanges - there's no real reason to use them.

Sigh, completely forgot about the other thread in the subforum because I never go there.

y u do dis?

so their are no draw backs strength wise at the head tube? I know someone saying running aluminum steerer carbon forks on steel frames cause problems

With hubs like the All-City New Sheriff that come in 120mm rear spacing; can you add spacers, to space them out to 126mm?
Are the axle bolts long enough? Or will doing this result in damage to the hub(with their self-adjusting bearings and what-not) or just having too little thread inside the hub itself.

Think about it. What problems would it actually cause?