Does nitto offer a 26.8 seatpost?

Why am I looking at DJ frames when I'm content with the one I have?

craftsman has some decent stuff
this one is your standard beam/dial one - $12
this one is a "clicky" type that makes a distinct click once youve reached the torque its set to, i prefer these because you dont have to look at the dial when youre wrenching - $80

the beam type typically have a low max torque (which isnt a big deal with bike wrenching), and the clicky ones sometimes have high minimum torque settings

yardsales/flea markets are good places to find these things, provided theyre still accurate

/notscrod

sweet, The first looks exactly like the park tools one.

would this do the job too? prime eligible :D http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Classic-...2&sr=8-2-fkmr0

ya, park one goes up to 600 in/lb, craftsman goes up to 900 (not that that would likely be necessary), and its 1/4 the price

nice thing about craftsman stuff is they all have lifetime guarantees too, and even though ive never actually had a tool break, im pretty sure its no questions asked, so feel free to abuse them

Ask Scrod
 

If you're going to use then then you'll want one large one and a small one. It's best to have torque wrenches that have your most common torque specs in the middle of their range to be most accurate.

The NJS-P72 and Crystal Fellow both come in that size.

I have a Craftsman. Sears has 'online only' sales on tools all the time. You should be able to pick one up for a good price and do store pickup so you don't have to pay shipping.

Scrod,

Have a couple general wheel questions and thought you might be the best person to ask. For my wabi I'm looking to have a set build with A23's or TB14's. I know this delves into personal shopper territory but I thought maybe you would have some input since you own both. Most opinions I've read of both seem to be positive so don't know if there is anything really to add. I've kinda settled on the TB14's just because the A23's have been OOS for so long.

Other question is about spokes. My last set of wheels I had built at my LBS when IRO was closing out their Fusion rims/IRO hubs. Talking with the wheelbuilder there he recommended against using the highly butted spokes like Revos or Lasers. I'm a bigger guy (6'4"/200) so not sure if that was a reason why he recommended that or maybe he wasn't very experienced or a combo of both? I dunno. I've read so many contradicting opinions, mostly from the road forum, that it's hard to keep track.

Sorry if either have been asked before, hard to keep track of 140 pages :D

I want to regrease my MKS Sylvan pedals. Assumming I can get the caps off (or have the LBS remove them): how complicated is the process of regreasing the bearing inside? I am concerned that the pedals will no longer feel right once I take it apart, grease and put it all back together. Considering the pedals are not all that expensive: is it worth paying a store to do it for me?

PS: Google results for "buy mks sylvan track pedals" has your shop in 6th place to sell the Straps/Pedals combo.

According to Velocity, A23s should be fully restocked by next week. We'll see.

I like them both the same but for different reasons. The A23s are lighter but don't look nearly as good as TB14s, IMO. I'm not racing so I generally don't give a crap about weight, as long as the wheels aren't stupid heavy.

I'm on the bigger side myself (although I'm recently down to 190 lbs!) and have never had any issues with Sapim Lasers.

I've got Sapim Lasers laces to A23's and have also had no problems at 235lbs.

Another note, Sears gave me a hell of a time when I went in there with two broken Craftsman torque wrenches. I believe they replaced one very reluctantly, and told me tough **** on the other one(which had the socket square thing sheared clean off, obviously from misuse).

You can buy a tool made by MKS for removing the bearing caps for around 5-6 bucks.
http://www.universalcycles.com/image...dium/41030.jpg

Servicing them yourself isn't difficult at all.

IIRC my dad had to get a tool replaced when i was younger and he mailed it in directly to craftsman, in my experience sears is a PITA to deal with in general

Nice. Thanks man, I might go with a Nitto now just to mix it up.

With all this talk of torque wrenches lately, I think I need to buy myself one for when I rebuild my bike rather than just going by feel this time. Since I don't have the spec lists for all of my parts in front of me, what range of force do I need? 0-75 ft/lbs? 20-150? Thanks. No carbon bits on my bike if it matters.

Hey Scrod, I'm searching for some compact bars with a 26 clamp for my kilo. Any recommendations? or should i go for the hood rat and new stem combo? I'm kinda iffy about that cause I fear the stem will look super fat compared to the spacers underneath, is this true or am i being paranoid?:(

actually, you're good. It's not explicitly talking about RG.

You're asking for recommendations.

Oh ok, don't want to anger Scrod:(. I'm fairly new to posting and don't want to get off on the wrong foot....I fell off my bike like that before....anyways.....anybody have some bars in mind or past experiences with any?

No worries, hombre. I've cut back on the bath salts so I won't eat your face today.

How about Soma Hwy One compact drops? They're available with either a 26.0 or 31.8 clamp.

I just lol'd hella hard. You're a good man, scrod.

those are a really good option and ironically you sell them which is awesome cause i wanted to buy my stuff from you! Maybe I'll even get a little surprise inside like others have......:innocent:

He's getting hungry.

And naked.