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Originally Posted by hairnet
(Post 13334884)
:( maybe I'm too much man for my bike
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Originally Posted by hairnet
(Post 13334397)
How can I stop busting chainring bolts? I noticed today, after my climbing ride last night, that one of my bolts was missing and checked the other to find them snapped.This blows, but at least my chainring didnt fold during the ride
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I actually did locktite them this time
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13335162)
No, you're just using crappy bolts and not checking them often enough. And yeah, always use blue Loctite.
Completely different question: If I switch to a Leader 725 from my Kilo TT Pro, All I would have to replace is the Fork/Headset/Stem, while everything else could be reused, correct? |
Dear Scord,
Someone here had a Trek conversion that they decked out with a full-on SRAM red group. Do you have mod powers to make this image appear? |
Originally Posted by rustybrown
(Post 13335460)
Dear Scord,
Someone here had a Trek conversion that they decked out with a full-on SRAM red group. Do you have mod powers to make this image appear? http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/q...60/trekred.jpg |
Originally Posted by Jaytron
(Post 13335253)
How often should one check them?
Completely different question: If I switch to a Leader 725 from my Kilo TT Pro, All I would have to replace is the Fork/Headset/Stem, while everything else could be reused, correct? Regarding chainring bolts, start checking them very regularly. You're realize after a while how often they need some attention. |
Originally Posted by hairnet
(Post 13335218)
I actually did locktite them this time
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13335766)
doesn't =
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13335765)
Correct.
Regarding chainring bolts, start checking them very regularly. You're realize after a while how often they need some attention. |
Before I started using FSA torx bolts - which are amazing - I found that I never actually had to use that stupid chainring bolt spanner (I despise that virtually useless tool) and that the backs of my chainring bolts would pretty much stay put when tightening the front.
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Not sure if this is advised for/against, but I think the previous owner stuck down the chainring bolts on my Sugino 75's with Loctite or Gorilla Glue or something cuz the backs of the bolts don't move at all, even when I tried to unstick them with a chainring bolt spanner. Works for me.
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Originally Posted by Jaytron
(Post 13335253)
How often should one check them?
Completely different question: If I switch to a Leader 725 from my Kilo TT Pro, All I would have to replace is the Fork/Headset/Stem, while everything else could be reused, correct? You will also have to replace the seatpost. Luckily Scrod just put up some Leader aero posts. |
Oh yeah...the Kilo TT has a 26.8 seatpost. Derpity derp.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13335985)
Before I started using FSA torx bolts - which are amazing - I found that I never actually had to use that stupid chainring bolt spanner (I despise that virtually useless tool) and that the backs of my chainring bolts would pretty much stay put when tightening the front.
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The spanner tool never gets it tight enough imo.
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Dear Scrod,
Should I throw some CX tires with drops & hoods on the Earl to transform it to a cyclocross racing machine? |
No.
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Originally Posted by evilcryalotmore
(Post 13336568)
The spanner tool never gets it tight enough imo.
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Originally Posted by Leukybear
(Post 13335489)
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Originally Posted by evilcryalotmore
(Post 13336568)
The spanner tool never gets it tight enough imo.
I think I should just make that pic my sig. It would save me lots of trouble. |
Originally Posted by Leukybear
(Post 13335489)
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Originally Posted by Leukybear
(Post 13335489)
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how so?
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Originally Posted by Leukybear
(Post 13335489)
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