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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13335985)
Before I started using FSA torx bolts - which are amazing - I found that I never actually had to use that stupid chainring bolt spanner (I despise that virtually useless tool) and that the backs of my chainring bolts would pretty much stay put when tightening the front.
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Originally Posted by carleton
(Post 13337989)
I like it.
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Originally Posted by mxs
(Post 13338136)
Scrod, for omniums with the original chainring, which FSA bolts would I need (single, double, or triple). Also, if I change to a non-omnium chainring can I use the same bolts?
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Scrod,
1. What's the major difference(s) between the Leader 721 and 725? 2. Where do you get your envelopes printed at? |
The only differences are that the 725 has a aero seat tube with a cutout and smooth welds. The geo and overall construction are the same. IIRC, the 721 is a little lighter.
We don't use printed envelopes. It's a good ol' fashioned rubber stamp. |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13340350)
The only differences are that the 725 has a aero seat tube with a cutout and smooth welds. The geo and overall construction are the same. IIRC, the 721 is a little lighter.
We don't use printed envelopes. It's a good ol' fashioned rubber stamp. The envelopes look sweet, where did you get the stamp made at? |
I don't really recall. A friend of mine who runs a record label had it made for us through the place he uses.
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Hey scrod,
Do bikes with track hubs (i.e. no skewer) require a different kind of trainer than what most bikes use? |
In my experience, I've found that you can clamp a track axle into most trainers - but the axle protruding from the nuts on most hubs can sometimes be a problem. If this is the case, you can simply thread on another set of track nuts. Also, the clamping surface on the trainer will round off the edges of the nuts, which is another good reason to use an extra set.
You may also want to ask Carleton. |
Do you have any advice, encouragement, or expertise on wrapping bars? I'm too scared to do it myself and I DON'T want to pay the LBS $15 to do it again.
(p.s: how do you remove bar end plugs?) |
Originally Posted by homebrewk
(Post 13340510)
Do you have any advice, encouragement, or expertise on wrapping bars? I'm too scared to do it myself and I DON'T want to pay the LBS $15 to do it again.
(p.s: how do you remove bar end plugs?) /not Scrod. |
I am a handlebar wrapping master at this point. Like just about anything, the only way to get better is to keep doing it. A lot of great info can also be found here.
You remove bar end plugs by pulling them out. I can usually get them started with my fingernail but you may need to get them started with a small screwdriver or something if they're being stubborn. |
Awesome. Thanks!
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Two flat head head screwdrivers under opposite sides of a plug will remove it without damaging it.
/$0.02 |
That would work great too!
The reason why I ask is I'm tired of my red splash tape and I'm thinking of going for LizardSkins or that camo tape that Hairnet had. |
Originally Posted by homebrewk
(Post 13340510)
Do you have any advice, encouragement, or expertise on wrapping bars? I'm too scared to do it myself and I DON'T want to pay the LBS $15 to do it again.
(p.s: how do you remove bar end plugs?) I'm a fan of using Park Tool's "advanced" version. Not really that much harder than normal, but I like the way it works better. Just takes practice. For the same price as having an LBS do you, you could buy a couple of rolls of cheap cork tape and wrap it 3-4 times with one roll until you get it how you like it, then practice again with a fresh roll (not all stretched out) and then use your good tape when you're good and comfortable. |
Awesome. Thanks!
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Originally Posted by jimmytango
(Post 13340527)
Just make sure you stretch the hell out of the tape.
take your time and just try and make it as even as possible. when u finish w electrical tape (assuming that's what you do) make it nice. 90% of bikes i see have 3 widths wide of sloppy taping. looks like ****. sit down w a brew and get to it. sometimes it takes me 15-20 min to get it just how i like it. im a little ocd about it though. i figure you stare at it all the time while riding, might as well make it look nice. |
Originally Posted by homebrewk
(Post 13340603)
camo tape that Hairnet had.
Originally Posted by vw02
(Post 13341663)
take your time and just try and make it as even as possible. when u finish w electrical tape (assuming that's what you do) make it nice. 90% of bikes i see have 3 widths wide of sloppy taping. looks like ****. sit down w a brew and get to it. sometimes it takes me 15-20 min to get it just how i like it. im a little ocd about it though. i figure you stare at it all the time while riding, might as well make it look nice.
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Originally Posted by vw02
(Post 13341663)
don't do this. you want to stretch it a little, but not a ton. there's a happy medium there. also a bit of personal preference.
take your time and just try and make it as even as possible. when u finish w electrical tape (assuming that's what you do) make it nice. 90% of bikes i see have 3 widths wide of sloppy taping. looks like ****. sit down w a brew and get to it. sometimes it takes me 15-20 min to get it just how i like it. im a little ocd about it though. i figure you stare at it all the time while riding, might as well make it look nice. |
Can you reuse tape?
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I have rererererererereused tape. After a while the tape feels flimsy, depending on the tape, and you replace to change color.
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zomg i lovelovelove taping bars. its pretty much my favorite thing about building a bike i have no clue why. i have also rererereretaped bars with tape, especially cloth tape. or tape without any sticky backing.
generally for aesthetically pleasingness on tape i make sure the space between wraps is exactly the same, although that changes around bends. tight even pull is ideal, but not extremely tight. kind of also depends on what kind of tape....i find with cloth tape super tight is nice, with cork medium tight is good, although sometimes cork tape is nice when its wrapped a teeny tad loose (but still tight) so its a bit thicker and squishier. oh wait im not scrod mahbad |
RB-021 or the Hood Rat compact drops?
I want bulls for better climbing leverage, etc. But I've had a few people say that the RB-021's drop is a little extreme for bullhorns and are uncomfortable since the tops are really narrow. I don't have hoods or anything, but the flat part of the Hood Rat seems really comfortable, and would leave more extra $$ to purchase a longer stem. |
use the extra cash on hoods
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