Cool, good to know man, thanks.

Hey Scrod I have a quick question, I just tried to remove the chainring on a set of S300s and it seems that the grooves on the stupid chainring spanner(Park CNW-2) aren't deep enough to grab on to the back of the chainring bolts. Do you know of a specific chainring tool that'll work on the stock S300 bolts?

Did you try both sides of the CNW-2? One is deeper than the other.

Yes, the one side is way too short, but even the longer side is too short; it only sorta halfway works when i tilt it sideways and can engage one groove, but it's not deep enough to engage both, ****in' frustrating.

damnit, totally forgot about the retrogression thread.

So to go with my B43 rear wheel I bought a Craiglist Special - $35 new Weinmann DP18 (this is a beater set of rims when riding in the city). The issue I am having is that my Dolan Pre Cursa front fork doesn't seem to want to let it go on. Should I attempt to file a bit of the opening t allow the threaded portion of the hub? The DP18 fits on the Kilo WT but not the PC.

Thanks,
J

Pics of Seagull bag? Please?

Do you mean that the slot on the dropouts is too narrow or that the hub spacing is too wide?

Wrong thread holmes. I'll post pics as soon as I have them.

I'm very excited. I don't know if you are aware of that.

not too good with terminology, but the dropout on the front fork is too narrow to allow the threaded part of the hub (which you tighten on) to slid in.

Really weird. A 9mm front axle is a 9mm front axle. What wheel is on your PC now?

Wabi GX
I think its just the beginning opening, Im going to see if it would fit by lining it up.

Scroddy my main dude,

Took my rear wheel back to the shop. They had opted to re-use my fixed cog which apparently was stripped, without looking or feeling stripped, hence it coming loose on the new hub. So I pick up my bike today, new cog, new hub, and they installed a new chain (which I didn't ask for) to a 1/8th link width. I was under the impression that chain tension is imperative and thought it was too tight but the mechanic told me the tension was perfect. He told me my pedals might slip a tiny bit on the first skid and then be okay, and I took it out for a spin.

Sure enough, the first time I stood up to brake, my pedals slipped and then caught on and I skidded. So I paid, and started to commute home, skidding a number of times. Approaching a stop sign, I stood up again and felt the pedals slip as if my lockring had come off and lost my balance and almost went into traffic. Fortunately for your entertainment, I didn't. This happened once again, and I believe I looked down to see my feet slip forward. I checked the lockring, checked the cog, both tight. I began riding back to the shop, continually testing my skids and found it did not happen again. It's been a few hours of riding now and this has not occurred again, but I'm pretty scared to ride it. WTF is happening?

Hi Scrod,

I was looking for a Dimension stem and noticed a few sellers stating they are not for use with a carbon steerer (or carbon handlebars). Dimension's website says they don't recommend it. Is this a case of Dimension and the sellers being overly cautious or is there a real reason why they shouldn't be used together? I haven't seen this warning on any other stem. Thanks!

this happenned to me too with my crappy weinmann dp18 wheels too on my kazane fork. The thing is it fit in all of my other bikes. I ended up just filing the insides of the dropouts down a few mm. Read around and it wasn't unheard of.

First of all, the threads on a hub (which is aluminum) will strip much easier than the cog's threads (which is hardened steel).

Secondly, your "mechanic" is likely an idiot who shouldn't be working on bikes. Like I told you before, it is physically impossible for pedals to "slip" when skidding at the crsnk or bottom bracket. The only thing making that feeling possible is an improperly installed cog and lockring. By him telling you that you may feel it "slip a tiny bit and the be okay", he basically said "I don't know what I'm doing and didn't tighten your cog and lockring as much as I should have".

Your cog and lockring aren't tight enough, even if they appear to be. "Testing your skids" is the worst thing you could have done and chances are, the threading on your hub is now damaged as a result (if it wasn't already). Knock off the skidding and have it looked at by someone who knows what they are doing.

Dear Scrod (not sure if in style for this thread, but it's corteous),


I noticed that the fixed gear bikes Walmart sells, are ridiculed and looked upon with scorn, around here. Currently it's the Thruster, but earlier there was another cheap FG bike Walmart was selling, and it was equally reviled.
Since I don't live in the USA and have no access to Walmart, could you tell me is there something wrong with the frame of the Thruster?

For the price (which is often below $90), I guess there isn't much "wrong" with it. Like the majority of inexpensive Walmart bikes, the Thruster is a cheap, "throwaway" bike that isn't really meant to last forever. Kids get into fads and get over them pretty quickly. The Thruster's target buyer is the parent of a kid who sees the fixed gear fad, wants to be "cool", rides the bike five times and leaves it in the garage.

Right, but is there anything wrong with the frame, except that it's probably hi-ten?

It's hi-ten, has very crappy welds and most likely isn't durable at all, which makes it perfect for what I described above.

OK, thanks.

reposting in case you missed it

What do you mean "Having an extra spacer up top matters a lot more on a carbon steerer." Is this to make sure the steerer is fully clamped by the stem? Or is there another reason.

Exactly.