I misinterpreted this at first...

Thanks again Scrod, gonna order the Thomson 29.8 from Retro-G.

theres more important crap to worry about, good people wont give a damn what you look like

If you don't mind explaining a little more. I'm was trying to build this bike myself. I don't really know what the crown race is. Yes i'm a noob but I want to learn.

The crown race is the part of the headset that gets installed on your fork's crown and seats the lower bearing - which you obviously didn't install correctly. Assuming you don't have the proper tools to do so, you need to take your bike to a shop before you **** something up.

Your headset came with installation instructions. You may want to at least look at them.

looking for a crank set for my new frame.

this will not be a track bike and will see nothing but street time tbh. I was set on omniums but now im thinking of going a different route but dont know what to look at. any suggestions? going on a cinelli bolt.

That's pretty vague. What's your price range?

This is one of those deals that a shop will charge you a fraction of the cost of the tools to do it yourself and trying to fart around will ruin a part that costs more than the shop would charge. If you promise to keep quiet while they work, they might let you watch.

Seriously. My shop charges a whopping $5 to install a crown race - $10 if it's being moved from one fork to another.

There are some jobs where it's just easier to take it to the lbs. The headset is one of these which you'll understand the first time you look at the tool they use and watch them do it in a couple of minutes. ;)

true.
$250-$275.
165-170mm
prefer em in black. What got me thinking about the omniums were the price of them on your site. I can spend a little more for something different.

When you're building up a wheel with an eyeletted rim, do you grease or oil the nipple where it meets the eyelet? Is it necessary when using brass nipples?

"Always" as said by the depressed Persian tow truck man.

http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IonWCKOzZwk/0.jpg

/sorryscrodthisguyjustpoppedintomyheadsoIhadto

After the initial lacing I always put a drop of Tri-Flow where the nipples meet the rim - eyelets or not.

Dude, how in the **** did you build my wheel set without taking the finish off those nipples?

I had to do a repair today on the back and it looks like I put them through a ****ing garbage disposal.

Hey Scrod,

Having issues with my Nitto 626 seatpost. Basically, it won't keep the saddle locked down.

I had a B-17 in there and it was fine. I adjusted the saddle angle once and it wouldn't keep it. Now I just changed the saddle out to a Brooks colt and it won't keep it locked either. I broke it all down a few times and every component looks fine.

Any idea what the problem might be?

Scrod, I want to change my rear hub, spoke calculator says the new hub needs 1.2mm less spoke than the old hub...Too much a difference? its on a B43 BTW which may mean it won't matter

The finish comes off Sapim nipples if you look them the wrong way. I usually grease the outside of them while building and use a spoke wrench the next size up to help prevent it a little.

You might be okay. What spokes and nipples do you have?

I have no idea. I've never had any trouble with mine.

So when any seatpost doesn't keep the saddle in place, what's the usual culprit? I've read about roughening up certain contact points so they grip better.

It's usually either due undertightening or stripped threads preventing you to tighten it properly. Roughing up the contact points wouldn't really do much, if anything at all.

I can't tell from the picture---is that a one bolt adjustment**********??? I have a Look Ergopost and have to tighten the snot out of the single bolt or it will slip.

Yeah, Nitto 626 is single bolt. Man, if I had slippage issues with a double bolt, I'd throw that thing through a wall.

Thanks Scrod, I'll try it again and crank it with a slightly larger wrench. If that doesn't work, I'll look at replacing the bolt, although the bolt and threads look fine.

It may not be the bolt, but what the bolt threads into.

14ga DT spokes (I know) and I believe DT Black Brass spoke nipples (I know they are black brass)

I say give it a shot. The worst that will happen is that it won't work.

True and my LBS has a spoke cutter/threader if it doesn't work I can always get new spokes

Yeah, I thought the same thing. Checked the bolt and that piece it threads into, both looked fine, but who knows based on just an eyeball test. Originally, I thought I used too much grease or something so I wiped a lot of the excess off. We'll see.

32h small flange hub (front) laced 2-leading, 2-trailing. What are your thoughts?http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=297296

I have been told the spoke crossings may be too tight and I will be putting extra stress on the hub. Is this something I should worry about?