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Old 11-13-12 | 09:40 PM
  #6076  
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Your cog is slipping.
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Originally Posted by ddeadserious
I'll probably replace the wheelset either way(thinking this one), do you think the Salsa cockpit is nicer than the Ritchey or were you primarily recommending I wait based on the better wheelset?
If you're going to sell off the wheels, it may not matter much (although you may be able to sell the 105/Mavic wheels for a little bit more). can you get a discount on the 2012 through the shop where you work?
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Old 11-13-12 | 09:49 PM
  #6077  
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Yeah, All City already marked the 2012 down a bit, plus they give an additional discount for bike shop employees. I was just curious if your call to wait was based on the wheelset or the cockpit, because I think I'd prefer the Ritchey cockpit to the Salsa one, but not for any particular reason.

I'll just have to see when my Tarmac sells and figure it out from there. Maybe I'll build a wheel set first and wait for the 2013 to become available. Thanks for the advice to my scatterbrained decision rambling.
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Old 11-13-12 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Leukybear
WCS = World Championship Series. In this case, the colorways of the "WCS" series of concors represent each color in the champion stripe from the rainbow jersey that a world champion gets to parade around in after winning.
/not scrod
Thanks Leuky. Anyone know about performance differences? Same mold and all that right? Just asking because I remember something about the updated Turbos not being as good as the re-issues.

Only thing I could gather is that the WCS's are suede, and the colors besides black don't wear very well because of that.
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Old 11-13-12 | 09:54 PM
  #6079  
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Originally Posted by ddeadserious
Yeah, All City already marked the 2012 down a bit, plus they give an additional discount for bike shop employees. I was just curious if your call to wait was based on the wheelset or the cockpit, because I think I'd prefer the Ritchey cockpit to the Salsa one, but not for any particular reason.

I'll just have to see when my Tarmac sells and figure it out from there. Maybe I'll build a wheel set first and wait for the 2013 to become available. Thanks for the advice to my scatterbrained decision rambling.
The Ritchey/Salsa cockpit is comparable and petty much comes down to which logo you like better.

If you'll be building the wheels, have you considered Archetypes?

Last edited by Scrodzilla; 11-13-12 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 11-13-12 | 09:59 PM
  #6080  
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Originally Posted by BigglyPuff
Thanks Leuky. Anyone know about performance differences? Same mold and all that right? Just asking because I remember something about the updated Turbos not being as good as the re-issues.

Only thing I could gather is that the WCS's are suede, and the colors besides black don't wear very well because of that.
The current leather Turbo 1980 reissue is much better the the synthetic reissues previously on the market.

All Concor Supercorsa saddles are suede except the white one (which is smooth leather) and Supercorsa X (which is synthetic/vegan). I'm in love with my Concor.
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Old 11-13-12 | 10:04 PM
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Questions answered. You guys are awesome.
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Old 11-13-12 | 10:06 PM
  #6082  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
The Ritchey/Salsa cocpit is comparable and petty much comes down to which logo you like better.

If you'll be building the wheels, have you considered Archetypes?
For some reason, my mind always jumps to A23s when I consider a wheelbuild, but I'd build an Archetype wheelset. Any idea how they'll hold up to braking?
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Old 11-13-12 | 10:17 PM
  #6083  
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They're made with a machined sidewall and anodized after machining.

H+Son's anodizing seems to hold up pretty well. Angie's SL42 on her 722TS shows no sign of brake wear after nearly 7 months of riding. YMMV on a road bike when braking all the time.

Last edited by Scrodzilla; 11-13-12 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 11-13-12 | 10:28 PM
  #6084  
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Count me in then, I'll give them a shot. Still thinking Novatec hubs, any other recommendations?
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Old 11-13-12 | 10:32 PM
  #6085  
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I still stand by Novatecs. Unless you're looking for something flashier, they really can't be beat for the price.
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Old 11-13-12 | 10:39 PM
  #6086  
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No need for flashy. If they're as solid as their track hubs(which it seems they are), I'll be more than satisfied with them.
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Old 11-14-12 | 05:09 PM
  #6087  
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Got any recommendations for a fork to go on a pompino?
<$200, 1 1/8", canti studs, not a boat anchor, fender eyelets, room for 32's, maybe crabon

(For cx purposes and all weather HTFU'ing)
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Old 11-14-12 | 05:21 PM
  #6088  
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Weinmann DP 18 - Cool super-cheap rim or super cheap POS rim? Need something that comes in red to slap on the roadie. Not sure if I really care enough to get anything notable.
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Old 11-14-12 | 05:50 PM
  #6089  
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Originally Posted by alecjahn
Weinmann DP 18 - Cool super-cheap rim or super cheap POS rim? Need something that comes in red to slap on the roadie. Not sure if I really care enough to get anything notable.
Are you just buying the rims and building wheels with them or a pre-built set?

DP18s are decent for the money but they're heavy (687g claimed but it's probably higher).

In all honesty, unless you're getting a screaming deal on a complete wheelset I think you should spend a few extra bucks and get Velocity rims. Deep Vs weigh in at 520g and Fusions are only 475g (actual weight on my shop scale) if you still want that deep look.

Last edited by Scrodzilla; 11-14-12 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 11-14-12 | 05:51 PM
  #6090  
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Originally Posted by Mumonkan
Got any recommendations for a fork to go on a pompino?
<$200, 1 1/8", canti studs, not a boat anchor, fender eyelets, room for 32's, maybe crabon

(For cx purposes and all weather HTFU'ing)
I'll do some looking around. I may be able to pick something up on closeout for you at a really good price.

Send me an e-mail so I don't forget between now and going back to the shop in the morning.
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Old 11-14-12 | 09:36 PM
  #6091  
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Looking for a long-lever flat bar brake lever with either 23.8 or 26.0mm clamp diameter. Cross levers and BMX style won't do the trick -- levers too short.

Buddy wants a lever to replace some POS thing he filed out to fit his track drops.

I can't dig anything up -- know anything that might work?
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Old 11-14-12 | 10:19 PM
  #6092  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Are you just buying the rims and building wheels with them or a pre-built set?

DP18s are decent for the money but they're heavy (687g claimed but it's probably higher).

In all honesty, unless you're getting a screaming deal on a complete wheelset I think you should spend a few extra bucks and get Velocity rims. Deep Vs weigh in at 520g and Fusions are only 475g (actual weight on my shop scale) if you still want that deep look.
Rebuilding a wheel using the original rear hub from the bike (original was run-over by the previous owner). Front is a mildly deep black heavy thing. I thought it'd look good with red in the back.

I don't mind weight, really. But I may end up splurging on Velocity anyway.

Thanks!
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Old 11-14-12 | 11:25 PM
  #6093  
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Originally Posted by mconlonx
Looking for a long-lever flat bar brake lever with either 23.8 or 26.0mm clamp diameter. Cross levers and BMX style won't do the trick -- levers too short.

Buddy wants a lever to replace some POS thing he filed out to fit his track drops.

I can't dig anything up -- know anything that might work?
Any regular length V-brake or Canti levers will be the best you will be able to do with it.
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Old 11-14-12 | 11:32 PM
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From: LA/OC

Bikes: kilo tt pro

looking to have a front wheel laced w/ a kinlin xr270 to novatec a165sbt -- am i able to radial lace on this hub? 24h setup

i used the spoke length calculator, not sure if i have all the measurements correct. does this look about right?

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Old 11-14-12 | 11:40 PM
  #6095  
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Novatec high-flange track hubs can be radial laced without any issues. Your calculations look good to me and in my experience, that spoke calculator is very reliable.
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Old 11-15-12 | 02:35 PM
  #6096  
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would the usage of alloy nipples on alloy rims be worth the risk of them seizing on an all weather/cx bike just because i want them to be red?
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Old 11-15-12 | 02:46 PM
  #6097  
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When the hell were you at RedBones?

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Old 11-15-12 | 03:25 PM
  #6098  
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When I google FSA Orbit CF-33 I get pictures of two different looking headsets, with the same specs. What am I missing?

[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD]Color[/TD]
[TD="class: seqbpdata"]Black[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: seqbpevenrow"]
[TD]Weight[/TD]
[TD="class: seqbpdata"]69g[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Material[/TD]
[TD="class: seqbpdata"]Carbon[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: seqbpevenrow"]
[TD]Steerer Tube[/TD]
[TD="class: seqbpdata"]1 1/8" to 1 1/4" Tapered[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Crown Race[/TD]
[TD="class: seqbpdata"]33.0[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: seqbpevenrow"]
[TD]Stack Height[/TD]
[TD="class: seqbpdata"]16.6mm[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Bearing Type[/TD]
[TD="class: seqbpdata"]Angular Contact[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: seqbpevenrow"]
[TD]Headset Type[/TD]
[TD="class: seqbpdata"]Integrated Upper 42.0mm O.D 45 deg bearing, Lower 47mm OD, 45 deg bearing[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Defined Color[/TD]
[TD="class: seqbpdata"]Black[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: seqbpevenrow"]
[TD]S.H.I.S Upper[/TD]
[TD="class: seqbpdata"]IS42[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]S.H.I.S Lower[/TD]
[TD="class: seqbpdata"]IS47,33[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: seqbpevenrow"]
[TD]S.H.I.S. Clamp Diameter[/TD]
[TD="class: seqbpdata"]28.6[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]



FSA (Full Speed Ahead) Orbit CF-33 Headsets for tapered headtubes.
For 1-1/8" to 1-1/4" steerer tubes
42mm Upper Headtube Inside diameter
47mm Lower Headtube Inside diameter
33mm Crown Race
Internal bearings set directly in the headtube
45/45degree ACB
Integrated style bearings fit directly into headtube
Steerer Tube: 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" Tapered
Headset Type: Integrated Upper 42.0mm 45/45, Integrated Lower 47mm 45/45
Color: Black
Crown Race: 33.0
Stack Height: 16.6 mm
Bearing Type: Angular Contact
Material: Carbon
Weight: 69.0g



I dun get it.
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Old 11-15-12 | 03:48 PM
  #6099  
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Originally Posted by NcA13
When the hell were you at RedBones?

We go there pretty regularly. I didn't put that sticker there, though.
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Old 11-15-12 | 03:51 PM
  #6100  
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Originally Posted by Mumonkan
would the usage of alloy nipples on alloy rims be worth the risk of them seizing on an all weather/cx bike just because i want them to be red?
You'll most likely be fine if you keep your bike relatively clean. If your bike will be getting wet/dirty for long periods of time without being cleaned, it also helps to put a drop of light oil (like Tri-Flow) where the nipples meet the rim every now and then.
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