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Old 04-30-13 | 11:59 AM
  #7551  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
It's bigger than two-finger but the Tektro FL750 always looks nice on a 22.2 flat bar.


I have a pair of those, but I'm looking for something more "go fast" and less "city".
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Old 04-30-13 | 12:05 PM
  #7552  
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Originally Posted by Mumonkan
any tips on truing my wheel so it stays that way?

whats a good way to keep the spokes from winding up?
There's no real magic trick to keep spokes from winding up. What I do occasionally is tighten the nipple slightly past where I want it to be, then loosen it a wee bit to unwind the spoke. Be careful not to overdo it, though.
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Old 04-30-13 | 12:10 PM
  #7553  
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The Dia Compe Dirt Harry comes in silver/black.
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Old 04-30-13 | 01:24 PM
  #7554  
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Last I knew, you could get Tektro Cross Interupter levers in all silver from Velo-Orange. Would those work? Interupter levers might not be ideal, but I think I've seen people use those before, no?

Edit: here's the link
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Old 04-30-13 | 01:51 PM
  #7555  
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It's fine to use a cross lever on its own. I had no idea they still made those in all silver.
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Old 04-30-13 | 04:15 PM
  #7556  
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I have a question on recommendation, should i get Wabicycle Gx410, or a deep v style rim? are there certain advantages between the 2? I've heard of cross wind issues with deep v style rims. I'm looking at spending just about 200$ for a wheelset. I like both styles, but I am leaning towards the wabicycles unless someone can convince me to go with the later.

Also, do you email tracking numbers for orders placed on your site?
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Old 04-30-13 | 04:42 PM
  #7557  
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I can't tell you which rims you'll like better.

Read the first page of this thread, then the FAQ page on the Retrogression site.
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Old 04-30-13 | 05:08 PM
  #7558  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
I can't tell you which rims you'll like better.

Read the first page of this thread, then the FAQ page on the Retrogression site.

The problem is i like both rims, but I dont exactly have an extra 200 to drop on another set of rims, so I'm trying to decide which ones to go with first.

And sorry I just noticed the tracking number question on your site, i guess i kept overlooking it
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Old 04-30-13 | 05:31 PM
  #7559  
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Originally Posted by kite991
The problem is i like both rims, but I dont exactly have an extra 200 to drop on another set of rims, so I'm trying to decide which ones to go with first.
Dude, really...you're choosing between apples and oranges and I can't tell you which one will taste better. Unless you're going to be racing or riding at top speed everywhere you go, the "aero benefit" of deep-section rims will be moot. This being said, you'll be purchasing them for looks. The Wabi wheels may not look as cool but they will be much lighter - which will be a multi-faceted benefit.

Also, saying "deep V style rim" says nothing as there are a lot of rims on the market. Some are good, some are horrible.
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Old 04-30-13 | 05:35 PM
  #7560  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Dude, really...you're choosing between apples and oranges and I can't tell you which one will taste better. Unless you're going to be racing or riding at top speed everywhere you go, the "aero benefit" of deep-section rims will be moot. This being said, you'll be purchasing them for looks. The Wabi wheels may not look as cool but they will be much lighter - which will be a multi-faceted benefit.

Also, saying "deep V style rim" says nothing as there are a lot of rims on the market. Some are good, some are horrible.
I'll probably go with the Wabi's first since they're around 200 for a the wheelset and save my money for H+sons
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Old 04-30-13 | 06:14 PM
  #7561  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
There's no real magic trick to keep spokes from winding up. What I do occasionally is tighten the nipple slightly past where I want it to be, then loosen it a wee bit to unwind the spoke. Be careful not to overdo it, though.

nice, i started doing that after i noticed them doing a little winding glad to know i wasnt doing something stupid

should i be relieving tension afterwards as if its a new wheel or is that not necessary?
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Old 04-30-13 | 08:54 PM
  #7562  
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Originally Posted by Mumonkan
nice, i started doing that after i noticed them doing a little winding glad to know i wasnt doing something stupid

should i be relieving tension afterwards as if its a new wheel or is that not necessary?
Right on. Any spokes you're working on will need to be relieved of stress to straighten out any wind up that has happened while truing the wheel but nothing major.
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Old 04-30-13 | 09:35 PM
  #7563  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Right on. Any spokes you're working on will need to be relieved of stress to straighten out any wind up that has happened while truing the wheel but nothing major.
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Old 04-30-13 | 10:45 PM
  #7564  
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Originally Posted by kite991
I'll probably go with the Wabi's first since they're around 200 for a the wheelset and save my money for H+sons
These have worked perfect for me:
https://www.retro-gression.com/produc...track-wheelset
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Old 05-01-13 | 07:48 AM
  #7565  
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Hey Scrod, aside from weight difference, Is there any upsides to the Kmc 710 or the SL version. some people say the SL will break quicker by ill be using it for Singlespeed application. FWIW I have the 710 available now and would have to order the SL version if I went with that one.
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Old 05-01-13 | 08:06 AM
  #7566  
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I can't speak for "some people" but I've never broken a 710-SL.
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Old 05-01-13 | 09:42 AM
  #7567  
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i got some gore sealed cables, but it appears that the derailleur housing is fatter than the old jagwire stuff i was using and the housing ferrule won't fit in my downtube cable adjuster. what to do?
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Old 05-01-13 | 09:44 AM
  #7568  
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also does there even exist a monstrosity that can break a 710sl?
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Old 05-01-13 | 09:46 AM
  #7569  
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Originally Posted by yummygooey
i got some gore sealed cables, but it appears that the derailleur housing is fatter than the old jagwire stuff i was using and the housing ferrule won't fit in my downtube cable adjuster. what to do?
Use it without the ferrule.

Originally Posted by yummygooey
also does there even exist a monstrosity that can break a 710sl?
Dannihilator claims to have broken a KMC Devil (I honestly don't know how that guy breaks/damages so much stuff), so anything is possible.
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Old 05-01-13 | 09:56 AM
  #7570  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Dannihilator claims to have broken a KMC Devil (I honestly don't know how that guy breaks/damages so much stuff), so anything is possible.
I bet he has guads like Ullrich
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Old 05-01-13 | 11:01 AM
  #7571  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Use it without the ferrule.
yea, right??? that's what i thought.

someone told me i can't do that cuz the strands or whatever of the housing will start to pull through the adjuster hole... but if there's barely enough room for the sealed cable liner to fit through the adjuster hole, where da hecks are the housing strands gonna go?
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Old 05-01-13 | 11:17 AM
  #7572  
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my fuji has a couple ends of cable with no ferrules cuz its built into the levers, havent noticed any ill effects in about 1k miles
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Old 05-01-13 | 11:43 AM
  #7573  
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Originally Posted by himespau
Last I knew, you could get Tektro Cross Interupter levers in all silver from Velo-Orange. Would those work? Interupter levers might not be ideal, but I think I've seen people use those before, no?

Edit: here's the link
Yeah, they do make them in silver with a 24mm clamp, I think. I suppose I could shim them to fit the 22.2mm bar.
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Old 05-01-13 | 11:45 AM
  #7574  
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That's what I've always done. A small piece of a rubber reflector shim always does the trick.
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Old 05-01-13 | 11:49 AM
  #7575  
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Word. I may even have some 23.8-to-22.2 aluminum shims from VO thumb shifters. Problem solved!
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