Whoops, forgot about your clamp size issue. The stupid thing is I bought a set of them for a build (whenever I get around to it) with which I'll have the same issue and just completely spaced.

This is more of an "I need an experienced opinion" rather than an actual question.. But anyway,

I have an old Bianchi Vittoria road bike that I love, I could fairly easily convert it to fixed or even SS for not a lot of money... But part of me wants to just keep it how it is and get an entirely new fixed/ss. Which is where my main dilemma comes in..

This bike (http://www.retro-gression.com/produc...-complete-bike) has been my dream bike for quite a while now, but it's pretty much out of my price range by a substantial amount of money. So I started looking for a cheaper option with similar geometry. My question is, do you think this complete aluminum EighthInch bike is worth the $550? http://eighthinch.com/products/frame...complete-bike/ I really like the convenience of getting everything at once rather than doing a prolonged build like I've done on other bikes.

That EighthInch complete really isn't bad for the money. The big difference is in the frameset.

Also, in before someone tells you to buy a Kilo TT.

aluminum fork tho.

Thanks Scrod. And I really don't want a TT. Is the aluminum fork really that much of an issue? I know carbon would obviously be better...

Aluminum forks are very harsh on the street, especially cheap aluminum.

Harsh enough that I should look at other options? Down the road I could probably buy a carbon fork, or maybe even get one used. Even with a carbon fork I'm assuming it will be cheaper than the Leader.

Whats the best way to make sure my chain is tight while I'm attaching my rear wheel? do i just pull the rear wheel back while im turning the nuts to lock it in place? My chain fell off today while i was riding and i nearly at cement.

What company makes the best axle nuts that will hold up the longest? My shop sells generic no name ones for $4. I figure I can do a lot better than that just buying them online.

An axle nut with a floating washer is an axle nut with a floating washer. If you want to get fancy, buy Dura Ace nuts.

Adjusting chain tension isn't rocket science. It helps to tighten the non-drive side first to keep the wheel from creeping forward. Also, remember that a little slack is a good thing.

Best method: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ning-technique

The best way is by having these: http://www.retro-gression.com/produc...ain-tensioners

That way, you wouldn't need to pull back on the wheel and tension by trial and error. They're great for making micro adjustments.

Great, I'm definitely looking at chain tensioners from MKS, and I can never get my chain to have no slack so its loose, but I dont want it as loose as i had it earlier today when it came off

run a biopace then you can have two different chain tensions with a turn of the crank!

just curious, does anyone run these on a frame with horizontal dropouts rather than track ends?

Oh man, that thread.

I don't even need to click the link to know what thread that is going to show.

:thumb:

Yeah, I almost felt like I had been Rickrolled when I clicked on it and remembered what that guy was advocating.

That thread was so informative and conclusive that it was locked before the integrity of the information was compromised.

Scrod,

I've been mostly absent for the last few months. Have I missed anything good?

Why do so many brands of SSFG frames max out at 58cm? Just a lack of demand for larger sizes, or is there some other reason?

Probably just lack of demand. The majority of frames my shop sells are between 51-55cm.

Aside from a few good FixedDriveJess episodes and some semi-recent drama in the RG thread, not really.

Do I need shop experience to work at a shop? Or will "I do all my own ****." work as a resume?