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-   -   Ask Scrod (https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/769181-ask-scrod.html)

Huffandstuff 06-05-13 10:08 PM


Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 15710157)
I don't know, mang.

So I took the seat post out and can get it to pop with just the binder in and tight, It happens when I press down and rock towards the handlebars/back. It possible I have a bunk binder by chance and would any 27.2 binder work to test out if thats the cause?

seanifred 06-05-13 10:48 PM

put some oil/lube on the saddle where the rails meet the saddle. maybe a little grease where the rails meet the seat clamp as well.

Nagrom_ 06-05-13 10:52 PM


Originally Posted by seanifred (Post 15710319)
put some oil/lube on the saddle where the rails meet the saddle. maybe a little grease where the rails meet the seat clamp as well.

Already done. At least read the thread...


I'd recommend reaming the seat tube.

seanifred 06-05-13 10:56 PM


Originally Posted by Nagrom_ (Post 15710327)
Already done. At least read the thread...


I'd recommend reaming the seat tube.

ah. bummer. i'd try a new seat post. try and single out the source, unless thats already been done as well.

Huffandstuff 06-05-13 11:11 PM


Originally Posted by seanifred (Post 15710334)
ah. bummer. i'd try a new seat post. try and single out the source, unless thats already been done as well.

That's been done but not posted, I'm like 99% sure that it's either coming from the seatpost binder or some bur/weld that its catching and squeaking on.

Scrodzilla 06-06-13 05:42 AM

I honestly can't see how the binder itself could be creaking. It's just a pinch clamp made from one piece of metal.

If you do try smoothing out the seat tube, be careful not to take off too much material.

gregjones 06-06-13 07:13 AM

Wouldn't one of those drum brake wheel cylinder hones work???........squirt some oil in the tube, hit it with the hone for maybe 1/2 second then clean oil and metal out. That should make everything pretty and round for a nice even fit.

Scrodzilla 06-06-13 07:16 AM

A round wire brush on a drill works pretty well too.

gregjones 06-06-13 07:32 AM

Ah yes wise one....it would take a lot longer to remove to (too?) much material.;)

Lukester78 06-06-13 09:07 AM

do 165 mm crank arms really help that much with pedal strike? I'm riding a vintage road bike conversion, so I would assume my bb is lower than say a track bike. Should I be concerned with the current setup of 170 mm?

I haven't had issues yet, but come fall I'll be back in Philly and riding considerably more. (now i'm mostly riding my hardtail on the local trails up here in CT)

Edit: and out of curiousity, what's your favorite lacing pattern? do you prefer matching or different front to back?

Huffandstuff 06-06-13 02:43 PM

So update, I fixed the creak. It was the back edge of the seat tube, had a small uneven area where it would rest on and guess it was the culprit.

seanifred 06-06-13 02:52 PM


Originally Posted by huffandstuff (Post 15712756)
so update, i fixed the creak. It was the back edge of the seat tube, had a small uneven area where it would rest on and guess it was the culprit.

w00t!

europa 06-07-13 02:44 AM


Originally Posted by Lukester78 (Post 15711413)
do 165 mm crank arms really help that much with pedal strike? I'm riding a vintage road bike conversion, so I would assume my bb is lower than say a track bike. Should I be concerned with the current setup of 170 mm?

I haven't had issues yet, but come fall I'll be back in Philly and riding considerably more. (now i'm mostly riding my hardtail on the local trails up here in CT)

Edit: and out of curiousity, what's your favorite lacing pattern? do you prefer matching or different front to back?

Made all the difference with my 80s Europa - occasional strikes with 170mm, none with 165mm. She isn't ridden aggressively though and this result may be frame specific.

GENESTARWIND 06-07-13 03:50 AM

2 imm is nothing. I ride my centurion fixed and I've come close to striking but i pay attention to how i hit corners and its only when get i sloppy that i come close to striking. Just pay attention and you will be fine.

Scrodzilla 06-07-13 06:09 AM


Originally Posted by Lukester78 (Post 15711413)
do 165 mm crank arms really help that much with pedal strike? I'm riding a vintage road bike conversion, so I would assume my bb is lower than say a track bike. Should I be concerned with the current setup of 170 mm?

I haven't had issues yet, but come fall I'll be back in Philly and riding considerably more. (now i'm mostly riding my hardtail on the local trails up here in CT)

Edit: and out of curiousity, what's your favorite lacing pattern? do you prefer matching or different front to back?

Just be careful when cornering and you shouldn't have any problems.

I don't really have a favorite lacing pattern but all the wheels on my own bikes are 3X. As far as matching wheels goes, I think a radial front looks great on the right bike.

Scrodzilla 06-07-13 06:11 AM


Originally Posted by GENESTARWIND (Post 15714847)
2 imm is nothing. I ride my centurion fixed and I've come close to striking but i pay attention to how i hit corners and its only when get i sloppy that i come close to striking. Just pay attention and you will be fine.

Is the difference between 165mm and 170mm really 2mm now? I need to update my measuring devices!

europa 06-07-13 06:34 AM


Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 15715070)
Is the difference between 165mm and 170mm really 2mm now? I need to update my measuring devices!

It's the metric system Scrod, plays merry hell with traditional addition and subtraction. :)

Lukester78 06-07-13 02:01 PM

170 ÷ 165 = 2 rite? haha

cool, thanks for the answer. maybe if I come across a cheap pair in 165 ill pick them up and test for myself.

I love seeing radial front on lugged steel cyclocross bikes.

FixedGearGabe 06-08-13 06:37 AM

Hey Scrod!!
I am deciding on what wheelset should i get.
was leading towards either Mavic Ellipse or H+Son Archetype.
For the Archetype having a BLB track hub should be decent enough right?
Kinda in a budget because im currently saving up for a full bike set and i ordered my LOW// frame.

LOW// Pursuit
Alphina Fork
SRAM Omnium 48T
Chris King Griplock Nothreadset
MKS Gr-10 w toeclips and cadence dbl straps
Thomson Elite, Thomson x2 and Thomson seatpost

will be reusing my saddle, cog, and handlebars.

Thank you for your time!!

Mumonkan 06-08-13 06:43 AM

Build certainly doesnt say "budget" to me

FixedGearGabe 06-08-13 07:03 AM


Originally Posted by Mumonkan (Post 15719194)
Build certainly doesnt say "budget" to me

haha true that. but i dont have a choice. cause im left with the wheelset. previously i wanted to reuse my wheelset, but now im considering just getting a new one. regarding my timeframe for savings, i can just barely afford to get a new wheelset.

and my "budget" is only referring to the wheelset.

Scrodzilla 06-08-13 07:54 AM

Ellipses are way overrated. Arechetypes to BLB hubs (which are rebranded Formulas) are the way to go.

FixedGearGabe 06-08-13 07:56 AM


Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 15719356)
Ellipses are way overrated. Arechetypes to BLB hubs (which are rebranded Formulas) are the way to go.

thats the answer i was hoping for! Awesome!!

cheers
Gabe

ThimbleSmash 06-08-13 07:57 AM

Using Brooks proofhide on toe straps, yay or nah? I know it is intended for saddles but I figured it could help protect my straps from water.

Scrodzilla 06-08-13 08:00 AM

Not unless you want them to break. The Proofide will soften the leather too much.


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