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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 18198120)
Like most other smart mike companies, Aventon hasn't changed the design of the Mataro every two months and I've never seen one that has broken under normal use.
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They did. The first version of that fork broke if you looked at it funny. To the best of my knowledge it's since been corrected.
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You used to spend some time in Portland right? Where is Scrod's top 3 places to eat?
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 18189592)
As soon as I figure out which one of the six computers it's on at the shop, I'll send it!
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Hey Scrod, I borrowed a disc rear wheel for the velodrome, and wanted to run a 14t on it instead of my usual 16/17t with my own lame rear wheel. With my current chain length, it still "fits" however the rear axle nut overlaps the little set screws for the replaceable sliders (?) on my Mataro's dropouts. Is it ok to tighten the rear wheel in place with this overlap of the set screws, or should I take a link out? Thanks.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H2...=w1416-h796-no |
Scrod, if I want jaw dropping shininess on my soon to arrive Gunnar... EAI Supestar or Phil Wood stainless cog?
Nothing gold plated though, I'm not a pimp. BTW, i picked up that Tange BB for the Sugino 75 you recommended. That thing is a damn nice chuck of Al and steel. |
[MENTION=316622]cali_axela[/MENTION] - It'll be fine. I did the same thing for years with my Pista Concept which has the same type of inserts w/o any problems.
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Originally Posted by andr0id
(Post 18230561)
Scrod, if I want jaw dropping shininess on my soon to arrive Gunnar... EAI Supestar or Phil Wood stainless cog?
Nothing gold plated though, I'm not a pimp. BTW, i picked up that Tange BB for the Sugino 75 you recommended. That thing is a damn nice chuck of Al and steel. The quality of Phil cogs is very good but in my experience they are extremely noisy. |
@cali_axela - TT is right, you'll be fine.
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Hey Scrod,
I'm buying some Omniums (w/ GXP bb) for my Bare Knuckle which currently has Sugino RD2's. The bb/crank tools I have are a BBT-22 tool and a CCP-22C crank puller. Will I be able to remove/install the cranks with these tools, or am I buying some new ones? If the latter... Any recommendations? (I've been reading that people use BBT-9, so I'm thinking that may be what I'll need). Thanks for any help |
You're set as far as removing your RD2.
You'll need either the Park BBT-9 or BBT-19.2 and an 8mm allen wrench to install Omniums. |
Scrod, have you lost your dog?
Or found a fish? https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3419/...da451e47_b.jpg |
Scrod - I'm dumb and kind of floundering here. Need your wisdom. It's time to replace the bottom bracket and cranks on my beloved Fyxation Eastside Track. If memory serves me, you have some experience with this bike. Would the Andel 110mm bottom bracket (68mm English) and the Andel Standard track crankset be pretty much a direct replacement, without headaches? That combo is about at the top of my price range.
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Originally Posted by Doohickie
(Post 18257950)
Scrod, have you lost your dog?
Or found a fish? https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3419/...da451e47_b.jpg Many years ago, there was a small seafood shack in Gloucester, MA selling shirts that said I HAD SCROD LAST NIGHT in huge white letters on the front. It was really funny to occasionally see people walking around wearing them. :lol: |
Originally Posted by AlmostGreenGuy
(Post 18258582)
Scrod - I'm dumb and kind of floundering here. Need your wisdom. It's time to replace the bottom bracket and cranks on my beloved Fyxation Eastside Track. If memory serves me, you have some experience with this bike. Would the Andel 110mm bottom bracket (68mm English) and the Andel Standard track crankset be pretty much a direct replacement, without headaches? That combo is about at the top of my price range.
If you're doing the work yourself, you'll need the Park BBT-22 to remove your old BB & install the new one. |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 18258634)
Ha! One of the things I miss about New England is seeing signs like that around the coast (for those who don't know, Scrod is a New England fisherman's term meaning "catch of the day").
Many years ago, there was a small seafood shack in Gloucester, MA selling shirts that said I HAD SCROD LAST NIGHT in huge white letters on the front. It was really funny to occasionally see people walking around wearing them. :lol: |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 18258643)
If you're doing the work yourself, you'll need the Park BBT-22 to remove your old BB & install the new one.
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
(Post 18258704)
Also a crank puller like Park CWP-7.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 18258643)
Sounds like you're figuring this stuff out just fine! That crankset and BB will work perfectly on your frame, sans headache.
If you're doing the work yourself, you'll need the Park BBT-22 to remove your old BB & install the new one. |
Originally Posted by himespau
(Post 18258659)
Please tell me you bought Angie one.
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
(Post 18258704)
Also a crank puller like Park CWP-7.
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I'm starting to get some brake wear on my black TB14s. I think I read somewhere that the silver TB14s are also anodized. Is brake wear visible on the silver?
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Silver H+Son rims are polished. Break pad wear will be visible on any rims.
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Thanks. I should have been clearer: I realize brake wear will always be visible (and I wasn't complaining), I'm really wondering about how visible the wear is. There's contrast between the black and the layer of metal underneath, and I assume it will be less pronounced on the silver rims. Is that right?
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It really depends on what brake pads you use and how much you use your brake but naturally, brake pad wear will be less visible on silver rims.
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