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He borrows Nagrom's.
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Originally Posted by calv
(Post 15664434)
What kind of digital scale do you use to weigh components? The Park Tool DS-2?
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What could you sell a DS-2 for w/shipping????
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I'll let you know tomorrow.
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Wooops..............wrong thread to ask. I'll check in the proper location.;)
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Wouldn't any digital scale do the trick? Although, looking at prices, I guess they all run about the same for a decent one.
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Originally Posted by SpeshulEd
(Post 15666008)
Wouldn't any digital scale do the trick?
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Hey Scrod:
Newb here. I currently have a 2009 Specialized Langster NYC Edition with a frame that's too big for me. I'd like to move to a Leader 725 frame, and just move all my components over for now, then piecemeal replace them as I go forward. How important is going to a bike shop to get an actual fit done before buying the frame - or can I just use the Competitive Cyclist fit calculator to get a "close enough" fit, then get the actual fit done when I get my components on the frame? (Fit calculator puts me in a 51 Leader 725, while my Langster is a 56.) |
If your Langster fits, pick a new frame with the closest top tube measurement. Leaders are notoriously long and low, so be sure to do your homework before you buy.
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Dude's (Jemi9od's) Langster DOES NOT fit him, let alone me at 6'1 (with the OEM stem, chode stem currently swapped in as a stopgap for him). (I work with him, so i know). Thanks for the reply, and I have encouraged him to call you to talk thru the fit further if need be :). Sometimes the phone is the best way forward, unless you don't do phones. Thanks for confirming that Langsters are long and low; my 55 Kilo feels like a featherbed compared to that thing.
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The Top Tube on the Langster (a 56 frame) is 73.25mm. According to the calculator at competitive cyclist, my top tube should be 53.7 to 54.1. That's what leads me to believe that a 51 Leader 725 would fit me far, far better than the Langster.
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Originally Posted by Jemi9OD
(Post 15671591)
The Top Tube on the Langster (a 56 frame) is 73.25mm.
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Yeah...you may want to measure that again.
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I assume he got that number from here http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...9QEwBA&dur=167, which has totally crazy measurements listed for all sizes of Langster. I think maybe they have head angle in the TT length column.
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That makes sense (but it doesn't). The head tube angle is listed as 588 - which I'm assuming is the top tube length - but who knows it that's the actual or level measurement. Whip out the tape measure, boys.
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Close - I got it from the Specialized site at http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...wyork#geometry - I'll measure it next time I'm in the office though.
[EDIT] Oh god, now that i look at the rest of the measurements on that page, I completely assume Specialized was smoking something. [/EDIT] When I was planning to sell the bike, I measured the top tube (horizontally, to seat post) as 22.5", or 57.2 cm. |
Scrodzilla:
Newb. Want something for easy rides with my kid and (sometimes) a 2.5 mi. flat commute to work. I am lazy; Want my bike to be like a toaster: Get up in the morning, and it just works, with little hassle. No long trips, no racing, etc. I was planning on getting a BD Hour or similar. Then a friend offered me an old bike of theirs: an early-90s Cannondale R500 in very good shape, that hadn't been ridden in years. I like the no-shifters ideal (I have no need to go very fast, and like the simplicity) and appreciate the value of getting something newer. But the Cannondale is a very good bike, too. Both are similar price. Which would *you* buy? Added: The Cannondale fits me fine; I'd get the BD in my size and get it assembled/adjusted at the LBS (as I would with the Cannondale). |
One thing to take into consideration is the Cannondale will have vertical dropouts, which means unless you plan on running single speed (freewheel, not fixed) and using a chain tensioner, it may not be the best choice.
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Hey Scrod, I'm looking for a new tires (Size 23) what do you recommend? Mainly use it for commuting and daily rides. I prefer a tire that have a good balance of protection while still giving me good speed. What do you recommend?
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15675267)
One thing to take into consideration is the Cannondale will have vertical dropouts, which means unless you plan on running single speed (freewheel, not fixed) and using a chain tensioner, it may not be the best choice.
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That's correct; I'd keep the gearing on the Cannondale.
(If it has downtube shifters that I never use, can I be an honorary SS/FG member?) :rolleyes: |
Oh. It shouldn't even be a question then. The C-dale will be a much better bike than anything offered by Bikes Direct.
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Originally Posted by Optimus
(Post 15676438)
That's correct; I'd keep the gearing on the Cannondale.
(If it has downtube shifters that I never use, can I be an honorary SS/FG member?) :rolleyes: |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15671682)
That makes sense (but it doesn't). The head tube angle is listed as 588 - which I'm assuming is the top tube length - but who knows it that's the actual or level measurement. Whip out the tape measure, boys.
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I think you'll benefit by using a fit calculator (if you haven't done so already) and basing your decision on the top tube.
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