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Old 06-05-13 | 10:08 PM
  #7826  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
I don't know, mang.
So I took the seat post out and can get it to pop with just the binder in and tight, It happens when I press down and rock towards the handlebars/back. It possible I have a bunk binder by chance and would any 27.2 binder work to test out if thats the cause?
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Old 06-05-13 | 10:48 PM
  #7827  
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put some oil/lube on the saddle where the rails meet the saddle. maybe a little grease where the rails meet the seat clamp as well.
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Old 06-05-13 | 10:52 PM
  #7828  
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Originally Posted by seanifred
put some oil/lube on the saddle where the rails meet the saddle. maybe a little grease where the rails meet the seat clamp as well.
Already done. At least read the thread...


I'd recommend reaming the seat tube.
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Originally Posted by seau grateau
No offense but you're an idiot.
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Old 06-05-13 | 10:56 PM
  #7829  
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Originally Posted by Nagrom_
Already done. At least read the thread...


I'd recommend reaming the seat tube.
ah. bummer. i'd try a new seat post. try and single out the source, unless thats already been done as well.
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Old 06-05-13 | 11:11 PM
  #7830  
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Originally Posted by seanifred
ah. bummer. i'd try a new seat post. try and single out the source, unless thats already been done as well.
That's been done but not posted, I'm like 99% sure that it's either coming from the seatpost binder or some bur/weld that its catching and squeaking on.
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Old 06-06-13 | 05:42 AM
  #7831  
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I honestly can't see how the binder itself could be creaking. It's just a pinch clamp made from one piece of metal.

If you do try smoothing out the seat tube, be careful not to take off too much material.
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Old 06-06-13 | 07:13 AM
  #7832  
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Wouldn't one of those drum brake wheel cylinder hones work???........squirt some oil in the tube, hit it with the hone for maybe 1/2 second then clean oil and metal out. That should make everything pretty and round for a nice even fit.
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Old 06-06-13 | 07:16 AM
  #7833  
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A round wire brush on a drill works pretty well too.
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Old 06-06-13 | 07:32 AM
  #7834  
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Ah yes wise one....it would take a lot longer to remove to (too?) much material.
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Old 06-06-13 | 09:07 AM
  #7835  
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do 165 mm crank arms really help that much with pedal strike? I'm riding a vintage road bike conversion, so I would assume my bb is lower than say a track bike. Should I be concerned with the current setup of 170 mm?

I haven't had issues yet, but come fall I'll be back in Philly and riding considerably more. (now i'm mostly riding my hardtail on the local trails up here in CT)

Edit: and out of curiousity, what's your favorite lacing pattern? do you prefer matching or different front to back?

Last edited by Lukester78; 06-06-13 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 06-06-13 | 02:43 PM
  #7836  
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So update, I fixed the creak. It was the back edge of the seat tube, had a small uneven area where it would rest on and guess it was the culprit.
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Old 06-06-13 | 02:52 PM
  #7837  
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Originally Posted by huffandstuff
so update, i fixed the creak. It was the back edge of the seat tube, had a small uneven area where it would rest on and guess it was the culprit.
w00t!
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Old 06-07-13 | 02:44 AM
  #7838  
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Originally Posted by Lukester78
do 165 mm crank arms really help that much with pedal strike? I'm riding a vintage road bike conversion, so I would assume my bb is lower than say a track bike. Should I be concerned with the current setup of 170 mm?

I haven't had issues yet, but come fall I'll be back in Philly and riding considerably more. (now i'm mostly riding my hardtail on the local trails up here in CT)

Edit: and out of curiousity, what's your favorite lacing pattern? do you prefer matching or different front to back?
Made all the difference with my 80s Europa - occasional strikes with 170mm, none with 165mm. She isn't ridden aggressively though and this result may be frame specific.
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Old 06-07-13 | 03:50 AM
  #7839  
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2 imm is nothing. I ride my centurion fixed and I've come close to striking but i pay attention to how i hit corners and its only when get i sloppy that i come close to striking. Just pay attention and you will be fine.
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Old 06-07-13 | 06:09 AM
  #7840  
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Originally Posted by Lukester78
do 165 mm crank arms really help that much with pedal strike? I'm riding a vintage road bike conversion, so I would assume my bb is lower than say a track bike. Should I be concerned with the current setup of 170 mm?

I haven't had issues yet, but come fall I'll be back in Philly and riding considerably more. (now i'm mostly riding my hardtail on the local trails up here in CT)

Edit: and out of curiousity, what's your favorite lacing pattern? do you prefer matching or different front to back?
Just be careful when cornering and you shouldn't have any problems.

I don't really have a favorite lacing pattern but all the wheels on my own bikes are 3X. As far as matching wheels goes, I think a radial front looks great on the right bike.
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Old 06-07-13 | 06:11 AM
  #7841  
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Originally Posted by GENESTARWIND
2 imm is nothing. I ride my centurion fixed and I've come close to striking but i pay attention to how i hit corners and its only when get i sloppy that i come close to striking. Just pay attention and you will be fine.
Is the difference between 165mm and 170mm really 2mm now? I need to update my measuring devices!
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Old 06-07-13 | 06:34 AM
  #7842  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Is the difference between 165mm and 170mm really 2mm now? I need to update my measuring devices!
It's the metric system Scrod, plays merry hell with traditional addition and subtraction.
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Old 06-07-13 | 02:01 PM
  #7843  
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From: Philadelphia, PA

Bikes: Panasonic '88 Dx3000, Specialized Hardrock ('06?)

170 ÷ 165 = 2 rite? haha

cool, thanks for the answer. maybe if I come across a cheap pair in 165 ill pick them up and test for myself.

I love seeing radial front on lugged steel cyclocross bikes.
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Old 06-08-13 | 06:37 AM
  #7844  
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Hey Scrod!!
I am deciding on what wheelset should i get.
was leading towards either Mavic Ellipse or H+Son Archetype.
For the Archetype having a BLB track hub should be decent enough right?
Kinda in a budget because im currently saving up for a full bike set and i ordered my LOW// frame.

LOW// Pursuit
Alphina Fork
SRAM Omnium 48T
Chris King Griplock Nothreadset
MKS Gr-10 w toeclips and cadence dbl straps
Thomson Elite, Thomson x2 and Thomson seatpost

will be reusing my saddle, cog, and handlebars.

Thank you for your time!!
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Old 06-08-13 | 06:43 AM
  #7845  
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Build certainly doesnt say "budget" to me
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Old 06-08-13 | 07:03 AM
  #7846  
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Originally Posted by Mumonkan
Build certainly doesnt say "budget" to me
haha true that. but i dont have a choice. cause im left with the wheelset. previously i wanted to reuse my wheelset, but now im considering just getting a new one. regarding my timeframe for savings, i can just barely afford to get a new wheelset.

and my "budget" is only referring to the wheelset.
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Old 06-08-13 | 07:54 AM
  #7847  
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Ellipses are way overrated. Arechetypes to BLB hubs (which are rebranded Formulas) are the way to go.
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Old 06-08-13 | 07:56 AM
  #7848  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Ellipses are way overrated. Arechetypes to BLB hubs (which are rebranded Formulas) are the way to go.
thats the answer i was hoping for! Awesome!!

cheers
Gabe

Last edited by FixedGearGabe; 06-08-13 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 06-08-13 | 07:57 AM
  #7849  
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From: NSB,Florida

Bikes: SE PK Ripper FG,Trek Classic Steel, Free Spirit FG, Raleigh Pointe, Centurion Sport DLX, Schwinn CrissCross

Using Brooks proofhide on toe straps, yay or nah? I know it is intended for saddles but I figured it could help protect my straps from water.
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Old 06-08-13 | 08:00 AM
  #7850  
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Your cog is slipping.
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Not unless you want them to break. The Proofide will soften the leather too much.
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