So 274's are perfect because they will stretch a little.

Thanks for doing the math and answering his question.

Exactly what I said.

Let's not forget that I told him to use 274mm to begin with.

Luckily TT did the math!

:lol:

the "ideal" spoke length was 274.8 also, which after science is only .1mm off target

http://img.pandawhale.com/39558-Yeah...e-gif-j7xI.gif

Your bike will be super light now.

I looking at two of the carbon track forks you carry and am wondering which would be the best aesthetic match for my black gazzetta. It's between the tange and columbus. The rakes are close enough to not really matter to me, especially since each one gives me more than the OE fork has anyways.

https://www.retro-gression.com/colle...bon-track-fork

https://www.retro-gression.com/colle...bon-track-fork

The Columbus fork will look better in my opinion.

It just had to be the more expensive one, huh?:p

Incoming order..:ride:

Are these the same ones that are are now going for $250 on your site? You posted this a couple years ago that these were going for $195.

Also, how wide are the shoulders? I'm hoping that it will match the narrower tubing of the gazzetta.

Thanks for the help.

Same fork. Our price to purchase them from Columbus went up considerably in the past couple of years (as prices often do) so in turn we had to raise the retail price. We purchased their entire remaining stock and even though we currently have a lot of them on hand, it's my understanding that once they're gone there won't be any more.

I'm not at the shop right now to measure but a friend of mine just installed one of those forks on his Bare Knuckle and it looks great on a steel frame.

If price in an issue, the Tange fork will look just as good on your Gazzetta, I just happen to think the solid satin black finish and that cute lil' dove looks nicer than 3k carbon weave.

Yeah, I actually have an el cheapo carbon fork on it right now and it's the visible weave pattern that's annoying me the most. I couldn't tell if the tange had it or not in the pics. OK, I'm sold.

Thanks again.

Do you know of any 1" threaded ISO forks with 370-375 axle to crown distance (drilled for brakes). Probably my fault for sticking with old technology (but I love lugged frames and quill stems). Right now I have a replacement fork in the frame that's 365 mm and unless I'm absolutely perfect in putting my wheel in, the 23 mm tire rubs on the brake - even best case I'm at less than 1 mm clearance. Oh and I need a 240 mm or longer steerer. Am I looking for a unicorn/bigfoot?

howdy scrod.
I have a rounded off seat post collar bolt (the previous owner must have been a monster). Anyways, has anyone come to your shop with this issue?were you able to fix it, if so how? Both the bike shops by me just shrugged at my question and continued to proceed with their usual **** customer service. Any help would be rad.
thanks in advance

This is just a guess...but is there a slot in the back of the collar where you can get a blade on the bolt? See if you can borrow a Dremel from someone with a thin cutting disc and just cut the bolt in half. Then take the collar (if removable) and the pieces to a hardware store and have them match it up.

It might take a bit with a Dremel and the thin cutting discs wear down fast/can snap if you flex them too much...so expect to go through 2-3 discs. Also tape off below/above the section so you don't cut the frame if it slips.

It's a huge pet peeve when I hear of stuff like this...the bike shops should have at least attempted some type of fix or gave you some possible options/ideas to do on your own.

I've had luck gently hammering a slightly larger Torx driver into the the head of the bolt and backing the bolt out very slowly. You usually only get one shot doing that and it will either work or it won't.

There have been a couple of cases where I've cut the bolt as Regulatori suggests. Use a reinforced Dremel cutting wheel (the black one with a wafer pattern underneath).

I may be able to come up with something. What rake are you looking for?

Honestly, I don't really know. I got the bike as a frame only and built it up with the only used fork I could come across that had a long enough steerer (finding something with a 236 mm steerer took a while and I didn't know about axle to crown measurements at the time). It was used and I don't know what was on there originally, so I'd just be guessing. Based on pictures, what I currently have looks a hell of a lot like the Tange 7B CrMo replacement fork from the mid 90's (which had a height that was close to what I quickly measured last night with my tape measure - but no listed fork rake that I could find).

I've read somewhere that if you use longer fork legs, you need more rake to keep the handling the same and it handles fine now with 365 axle to crown, so I'd guess low to mid 40's? The only fork that fits my needs that I've been able to find is the nashbar threaded carbon one, http://media.nashbar.com/images/nash...ut-quality=100
and that's fine, but I just saw your note above about a satin fork with the columbus dove on it looking prettier than generic carbon weave, and I completely agreed. I didn't know if you happened to be aware of other random forks that weren't listed on your site.

My frame looks like this (not mine just a random image I stole from the web):
http://www.pedalroom.com/p/concorde-...ica-2873_1.jpg
so it would look fine with a black or chrome (or carbon) fork.

If nothing comes to mind right away, don't worry about it, I can just go with the nashbar generic one. I just figured there would be a better chance you'd know of a fork (or where to look) than I would. I don't have a problem hunting if I get pointed in the right direction.

Thanks.

Would this work?

Not seeing anything. Sorry for the huge photo, I'm crap at resizing.

Click on the word "this" in his post for the product; there's no picture inline to see there.

Yeah that would probably be fine, but require me to switch over to threadless. I could consider doing that.

Scrod, what was it like opening up a shop like Retrogression, one specializing in fixed gear, single speed and track bikes? What kinds of obstacles, problems, interesting quirks, etc? Was it difficult getting the name of there, and generating buzz and a reputation in the scene?

Those are all legitimate questions but I'd never have the time to sit here typing all the answers on a forum. Maybe someday I'll write a book.

Maybe you need to hire a biographer.

We should probably just make a reality show about the day-to-day shenanigans of this shop. I bet it would be pretty good to watch. :lol:

I'd bet Tejano Trackie would be your biographer for the low, low price of a retrogression kit.

Hey Scrod, I just ordered some rims, spokes, and nipples from you. I ordered the Sapim polyax nipples because that's what I always do (all 4 times I've built up wheels anyway) and am going with the Lasers. Sapim makes a big deal about their polyax being able to tilt in the rim more than other spokes so there is less bending/stress on the spokes. Is that benefit real or just marketing hype that's nice in theory but doesn't really do anything?

I'm not too sure if it's just hype or if it's actual science. As a rule, I just like to use the same brand of spokes & nipples on a wheel build to help keep my OCD from flaring up and ruining my day.

:twitchy:

oops. sorry for like, every time you build a wheel for me or sell me spokes and nipples.