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Would this wheelset be durable enough exclusively for street riding (NYC)? I plan on doing zero amount of riding on the track. I'm really attracted to the low spoke count and lightness of the set. Also, I weigh 135 lbs if that's a factor. I know it's sold out at the moment but someone responded to me on your IG page that a shipment of hubs were on the way and that you'd be building them again. Thanks.
https://www.retro-gression.com/produ...nt=29896373063 |
Originally Posted by chi0dos
(Post 14587916)
Went to the LBS and got some. Fixed the problem right up. Thanks Scrod :)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...923/7B7y9Z.jpg I see some ppl on YouTube using washers UNDER these.. is that really necessary? I'm pretty OCD with protecting frames from damage. **Thank you for the fast shipping as well.. :thumb: |
Using washers under them will decrease the effectiveness of the knurls, which are supposed to dig in to your dropouts.
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Originally Posted by XifalizE
(Post 19145705)
Would this wheelset be durable enough exclusively for street riding (NYC)? I plan on doing zero amount of riding on the track. I'm really attracted to the low spoke count and lightness of the set. Also, I weigh 135 lbs if that's a factor. I know it's sold out at the moment but someone responded to me on your IG page that a shipment of hubs were on the way and that you'd be building them again. Thanks.
https://www.retro-gression.com/produ...nt=29896373063 A huge box of those low flange hubs is arriving early next week. I'll be building a bunch more of those wheelsets ASAP. |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 19149651)
Using washers under them will decrease the effectiveness of the knurls, which are supposed to dig in to your dropouts.
I don't see these for sale basically anywhere, yet they are referred to as replaceable dropouts most of the time. |
The sooner you stop worrying about scratching your dropouts, the better.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 19149715)
The sooner you stop worrying about scratching your dropouts, the better.
FYI I have 3M clear tape on all my forks.. so I know it really has to end somewhere. |
Originally Posted by msa1082
(Post 19149729)
Understood lol.
FYI I have 3M clear tape on all my forks.. so I know it really has to end somewhere. |
beausage. my 3 week old rivendell frame already has scratches and tire rub marks. natural wear looks great on a bike.
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Is there any reason not to just use chain tugs and not worry about tightening the hell out of the nuts?
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Chain tugs are a pain in the ass and you don't need to "tighten the hell out of" your axle nuts like a gorilla to keep your wheel from slipping.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 19150124)
Chain tugs are a pain in the ass and you don't need to "tighten the hell out of" your axle nuts like a gorilla to keep your wheel from slipping.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 19149663)
I know someone riding them on the crappy streets here in SD who weighs considerably more than you and he hasn't had any issues. As long as you're not aiming for huge potholes and crashing into things on purpose, you'll be fine.
A huge box of those low flange hubs is arriving early next week. I'll be building a bunch more of those wheelsets ASAP. |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 19150124)
Chain tugs are a pain in the ass and you don't need to "tighten the hell out of" your axle nuts like a gorilla to keep your wheel from slipping.
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/8863/YIOIEQ.png You think I would need the 5mm or 8mm for the Sonik dropouts? http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320...923/o7YeSo.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...923/UcewfP.jpg I like the way they look. |
Measure your dropouts. My guess is they're thicker than 5mm.
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Originally Posted by msa1082
(Post 19153700)
Despite that.. I really started to want a set of these:
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/8863/YIOIEQ.png You think I would need the 5mm or 8mm for the Sonik dropouts? http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320...923/o7YeSo.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...923/UcewfP.jpg I like the way they look. Not Scrod, but I have 2 cents I'd like to throw your way. Those things are way, way, way, way, way, more of a pain in the ass than they are worth. After using them a few times you will wonder why you didn't see the many obvious drawbacks (like I missed as well) before buying them. Then you will throw them in the trash can. You will not feel bad about the money you wasted because you hate them so much. Then you will laugh at them as you bury them with more trash. |
Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
(Post 19153882)
Not Scrod, but I have 2 cents I'd like to throw your way. Those things are way, way, way, way, way, more of a pain in the ass than they are worth.
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
(Post 19153882)
Not Scrod, but I have 2 cents I'd like to throw your way. Those things are way, way, way, way, way, more of a pain in the ass than they are worth. After using them a few times you will wonder why you didn't see the many obvious drawbacks (like I missed as well) before buying them. Then you will throw them in the trash can. You will not feel bad about the money you wasted because you hate them so much. Then you will laugh at them as you bury them with more trash.
hmm. |
Originally Posted by msa1082
(Post 19153912)
Seriously!?? I have used cheap $1.00 tensioners and I know it takes longer to remove a wheel but I can always fine tune it easier with those.. I just semi tighten the nuts, fine tune the tire clearance and then tighten the nuts - it's always worked pretty well..
hmm. It appears you have a kung fu magic touch. The nice ones should work just as well, or better, than the cheap ones. Proceed and enjoy. |
I have a Surly Tugnut on one of my bikes, but only because I'm using a quick release skewer with a hollow axle hub, and cannot get the QR tight enough to keep the wheel from slipping in the dropout. One good thing about the Tugnut is that you don't have to unscrew it to remove the wheel or readjust it again when installing the wheel.
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Originally Posted by msa1082
(Post 19153912)
Seriously!?? I have used cheap $1.00 tensioners and I know it takes longer to remove a wheel but I can always fine tune it easier with those.. I just semi tighten the nuts, fine tune the tire clearance and then tighten the nuts - it's always worked pretty well..
hmm. https://media.giphy.com/media/14ceV8wMLIGO6Q/giphy.gif |
Is it that hard to hold the wheel tight with your foot while you tighten the nuts?
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Originally Posted by SpeshulEd
(Post 19154016)
Is it that hard to hold the wheel tight with your foot while you tighten the nuts?
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 19154118)
As absolutely crazy as it sounds, it's even easier to hold your wheels straight using your hand.
But you need both hands to hold the tensioners in place, so the don't move backwards, or shift up and down, or tilt, and to make sure the axle doesn't move fore/aft inside the gap in the tensioner hole. It's a team effort. F' 'em. |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 19154118)
As absolutely crazy as it sounds, it's even easier to hold your wheels straight using your hand.
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I'm not sure if this is the place to ask about RG stuff but I saw someone else mention a product from the site. I was wondering if the Norwegian Track Metal shirts will ever be maki
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If you're asking if more of that shirt will be made, nope.
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Dear Scrod,
Will I be mocked and ridiculed for wanting to put a disc brake on my commuter? Would you trust those bolt-on caliper mounts or get the lugs brazed on? Thanks. -Brakeless Biker |
Nothing wrong with having a disc brake. If it was me, I would just get a disc compatible fork and be done with it knowing that it was done properly.
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The bolt-on disc brake adapters I've seen are pretty janky. They might be okay for occasional use but if it were my bike I'd probably just use a different fork.
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