Thanks for the information. I like her bike.

I've heard the ano will come off a lot quicker if you ride and brake in the rain. Just a thought.

This is true.

Why do people argue about burritos and tacos on here so much or pretend they know authentic or why rice can't go in a burrito

For the same reason you took the time to ask that question. Nothing better to do.

How do I get as rad as you Scrod?

It's just four easy payments of $19.95, plus shipping and handling.

You don't.

Roadie wheel build question for ya. I recently bought a powertap GS 24 hole hub. I want to lace it to my Reynolds assault slg hoop which is also 24 hole. One shop said they would not want to do it because my Reynolds is a system rim (with exposed nips) and the ptap hub is a straight pull. The other shop didn't bat an eye and said it would be perfectly fine. How do you weigh in?

I'm confused about why that first shop would think a straight-pull hub paired with an exposed nipple carbon rim would ever be a problem, especially considering that's exactly how Reynolds Assault SLG wheels come from the factory.

My thoughts exactly but I know zero about wheel building. I think it had more to do factory lacing vs the ptap having a different pattern? But am I correct in thinking as long as I have the correct ERD and hole count it's good nh to be perfectly fine?

You wouldn't need to use different lacing with the PowerTap hub. If a different lacing pattern is used I suppose it could cause some problems with the nipples causing stress to the carbon rim because they'd all be sitting at a different angle but the spoke hole spacing on the new hub is designed for 2X lacing, which is the same as the stock wheel.

The only real difference is that both hub flanges on the GS24 hub are the same size, which isn't a problem if the spoke lengths are calculated correctly for the new build.

edit: I just realized the NDS of the stock Reynolds wheel is radial, which is probably what the first shop said no. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it.

worst case scenario wheel implodes on a 50mph descent and you die, nbd

if you aint takin risks you aint livin. yolo bro.

/not scrod

Some shops are super fussy with Reynolds wheels. I broke a spoke and the first shop I took it to was like "oh, we don't have spokes for Reynolds wheels, you'd better take that to an authorized dealer."

Took it to a Reynolds dealer and they laughed.

I seem to remember reading that because of something about the tensionmeter running through the axle, the side of a powertap hub that would normally be the non-drive side is where the drive forces are actually applied. Is that accurate (and a reason you wouldn't want to go radial as you implied), or was that someone on the interwebz talking a lot of bs out of his ass that he didn't understand?

There's no way to lace the PT hub radially, so I still think it's a non-problem.

whatever you decide on, just make sure to lace the powertap hub at least 2x (ds and nds) for accurate power reading and warranty purposes.

Which fork is a better value for me?
 

Scrod:

I see two very similar forks on the Retrogression site, both with 1" threaded steer tube, straight legs, and chrome finish.

One comes from Tange, is made of their "Infiniti" Cro-Mo, and sells for $125.

The other is unbranded, made from 4130 Cro-Mo, and sells for $68.

They have the same length, same rake, and visually similar (if not identical) sloping crowns, with elegant lugs extending into nice, curved tangs inside and out.

What are the differences between them? Just better steel from Tange? How much will that matter in the "real world?" Is the finish nicer on one?

I'm just a conservative, 46 year old, 155 lb. dude who likes to ride fixed gear on the roads. I don't enter crit races and don't have a velodrome within a day's drive. In fact, on the bike I'm looking to upgrade, I don't even ride in traffic. I take it to quiet, largely untraveled country roads that are generally flat, fairly (though not always) smooth, and mostly straight. I'm after a fork that will be stiffer and better looking than the one Takara spec'ed 40-ish years ago. Do you think I'd enjoy the Tange $60 more than the generic one?

I thank you in advance for your honest opinion.

That Tange fork is made from little bit nicer steel, has a slightly nicer chrome finish and is a wee bit lighter. You'll probably be alright spending 68 bucks instead of 125.

Ok Scrod...no one else has a clue.....


ever seen a front hub like this before:

That's helpful. Thanks for the quick reply!

I'll put in my order soon. I also need a new crank and brake lever (for another bike). I love your website and the selection of products you carry--seems to be in the perfect sweet spot between WalMart kids' bike junk and the unobtanium-plated, weight-weenie focussed jewels only affordable by Daddy Warbucks or Thurston Howell, III.

Yup, the last time you posted it.

What's the spacing on that thing?

I'd say it's about super-duper narrow.

Cool look, with the radial lacing and 28? very heavy gauge spokes.

My favorite part is the extra long pube dangling from the right side of the axle.