Hey Dave,

I got my lbs to let me borrow their spoke wrench. The guy gave me the black park tool one, has a little 0 on the head. Is that the right size for these Sapim nipples?

Yes it is!

Nice. Here I go.

Scrod, do I need to get my head tube faced? This is the farthest I can get the cup pressed in... it makes contact at the front of the HT but not the rear.

If so, should I wait until I get my CK headset back or just get it done now?

What frame is that? Unless that head tube has a lot of extra material hanging from the edges, facing/reaming a head tube will have more effect on the alignment of the headset cups than how far they'll go in.

It's my Ti road frame. I was using a Park Tool HHP-2 to get the cups in (one at a time), but this is as far as I can get it because the front of cup contacts the frame but not the rear of the cup (as pictured).

You may need to have the head tube reamed, as the cup may not be sliding in straight. A crooked cup will put unnecessary strain on your bearings.

Should I get that done now or just wait until I install the King (1-2 months... I'll ride this bike in that time but idk how much cuz it's COLD)? Or is the effect of repeated removals/installations of cups negligible on the interference fit?

Unless headset removal or installation is done horribly wrong, a head tube is typically only reamed when the frame is new - before installing a headset for the first time. If you're not planning on keeping that Cane Creek in there long, it should be okay to wait a little while.

OK. Update. Something confused me on the Art of Wheelbuilding.

I followed what it said, and put a spoke through (head facing out) and put it in the hole to the left of the valve stem hole. I notice on the diagram, it has a spoke in the SECOND hole, and in the "8th" hole in the hub. I did that, ended up not having enough odd hub holes to fill in the last spoke. So I took it out, redid it without the spoke into the second hole, and it seems fine.

Am I on track or did I miss something cruciaL?

I don't think the previous owner had this head tube reamed/faced before he installed the original headset. Derpin'.

I had my Kilo reamed/faced and the headset seated beautifully even though the cups started out completely cock-eyed.

****...calv...I don't remember, are you lacing 2X? If so, you need to put the second spoke in the SIXTH hole, not the 8th (see the little block diagram referring to number of crossings on page 67 in the book).

2X is tricky at first but go slow. You'll get it.

Hello Mr. Scrod. What is your opinion on the Velosole chainring sold at the retro-gression shop, as compared to the FSA chainring? I'm looking for a solid 144 bcd chainring to replace the stock Omnium one, and those looked as good as any.

(I tried to PM this, but... I just realized I can't PM until 50 posts. Sighh.)

Just a question, does Velomine do 3x or 2x lacing? Maybe I can use my 32h Sun M13 as a reference.

No, I'm doing 3x.

Heres a pic of what I have so far:

Haha lacing is so tricky the first couple times.

You've got the crossing spoke in backwards. Feed the remaining spokes on that side from the inside of the hub, so the spokes are on the outside.

So I'm good then? I'm doing 3x lacing, are you sure I should put it back into the eighth hole?

Thanks!

Update:


Everything look good?

Do you own Retro-gression or do you just work there? I love the idea of it by the way. Selling only stuff you can get behind or use yourselves. I wish more shops would do that.

he owns it

Looking good now calv. Apologies for disappearing last night. We were out and I ended up having no phone service where we were.

If you run into any further snags, call me at the number on the RG site.

Scrod do you know of any silver/chrome bartape that is durable? All the ones I found out about like (soma), people say the finish wears off very quickly. Or is there another way I can achieve a chrome silver handlebar look?

I have no idea. I've never messed with that stuff.