Care to drop some names? Just for future reference? Or if you wouldn't mind showing a newbie the ropes some time (I would reimburse you). Bike Kitchen is way too busy/hectic and my guy at the LBS said he is a terrible teacher.

I'm not sure if this was asked before I didn't read the whole thread. I was wondering if you still work at a bike shop or do you just do RG?

Retrogression is in the process of opening a full-service shop right now.

On the east side I believe there's a guy, Tony Z, or something like that. In Santa Monica there's Jorge at the Performance bike shop, he's one of those "will forget more about cycling than you will ever learn" kinda guys. We have books at Bikerowave and several people who are pretty good at it. I have only built 5 wheels, so I can sorta help

Hey Scrod!

I just received a chainwhip as a birthday present and it's a 3/32 park tool. Currently, my entire drive train is 3/32 but I know eventually I'll make the jump to 1/8. Do you think I'd be able to just replace the sections of chain with 1/8 and keep using it?

Scrod:

A lady I know pretty well is looking at buying a SS Fuji Betsy. She's 5'1 so I suggested the 43cm frame (no idea about her actual inseam, but I'm going to guarantee she's shorter than a 28). You think I was on the money? Now I'm having second doubts - but can always help her swap her stem to something shorter/longer if she needs it I guess.

Yeah...I did it pretty easily to the 3/32 Park chainwhip at the shop I where used to work. Just remove the old sections of chain and replace them with 1/8" chain using KMC master links attaching them to the handle.

It's hard to say without knowing her actual measurements. Angie is 5'3" and rides a 51cm Leader 722 - but she's built like a spider monkey.

Hey Scrod did you get a chance today to calculate those spokes for me?

The Circus Monkey road hub is a pretty standard design being sold by a lot of different manufacturers. The measurements are exactly the same as the Novatec A291SB. Based on those numbers (as well as the diagram you provided via PM), this is what I got:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...a/BF/CM-DV.png

Naturally, you'll want to round down.

Scrod, I remember you saying not to grease the spindle of square taper BB's, but what about ISIS BB's?

ISIS and other splined spindles should be greased or you'll hear a lot of creaks.

Also, splined spindles will bottom out instead of the crank arm sliding on too far in the instance of over-tightening.

So THAT'S why my mountain bike drivetrain always creaked.

Thanks man. Do people build wheels at wave? I figured it's kind of a long process and I can't see that happening in one shot at Kitchen.

Hey Scrod, since Sun has stopped making CR18's and ME14's in black whats a similar box section rim at that price range?

Why shouldn't one grease square taper BB's?

Velocity Razor?

Because - as I touched upon in the post you quoted - a greased square taper can force the crank arm too far onto the spindle, causing deformation of the BB/crank arm interface.

huh... good to know, thanks. Guess i should degrease mine?

There's always been a lot of debate about whether you should/shouldn't use grease. I'm in favor of not using it.

I just used some to install one. Hope I didn't deform anything.

also I noticed there's an instructional video on youtube that says to also grease the spindle. I thought that was a no-no for square tapers (as opposed to being a debate) since it can make the arm come loose?

There are "instructional" videos on Youtube showing how to do all kinds of stupid ****.

+1

Both sides seem to make some good points but neither has convinced me totally over the other. I just wipe a little anti seize now

Thank you