trouble with chain =/
#2
Chainrings are not often perfectly round, which can cause the chain tension to vary. Sometimes it just needs to be centered on the spider, sometimes it just sucks.
https://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#tension
https://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#tension
#4
You can try the Sheldon Brown method; I personally got nowhere with it after an hour of fiddling. I'd just loosen all five bolts with the chain off and get it as centered as possible. Most drivetrains won't be perfect (chainline, centered chainring, etc.) so just do the best you can.
#5
Just smang it.
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,295
Likes: 1
From: Bellingham
Bikes: Felt F1X, Kilo WT, Dawes Deadeye
When you've got as far as you can with the adjustments try to tension your chain while the cranks are in the tightest (chain tension-wise) position. If you tension at the loose point you risk having the chain bind up when it gets to the tight spot.
Edit: 1000th post!!!!
Edit: 1000th post!!!!
Last edited by EpicSchwinn; 11-14-11 at 10:44 PM.
#7
If you tighten your chain to the correct tension, even if you do so at the loosest point, it should not be anywhere near binding on the tight spot. If it is you are likely using a bio-pace ring. Seriously no chainring should be that out of round. I can move my chain almost a half inch up and down with my fingers, which means it has about 7/8ths inches of play. if your chain ring is almost an inch out of round, buy a new one please
#9
dad used to service manufacturing machines that used what were essentially large bike chains:
"as long as you can keep play less than 1.5x the width of the chain at the loosest point, don't worry about it."
fwiw....
"as long as you can keep play less than 1.5x the width of the chain at the loosest point, don't worry about it."
fwiw....





