fietsbob

incessantly

Tourist in MSN

You made it clear you want a new bike, and you should go out and get one. One with low enough gears for proper touring.

But, you should get the fit on your Fuji fixed anyway.

Agree. And by fit, you need the shop to understand that fit means six or more hours in the saddle, to be repeated the next day, and the next. Top of handlebars close to the same height as top of saddle, almost all bike tourists want the handlebars that high. I have my handlebars about 15 to 20mm lower than top of saddle, but I started with them the same height and tweaked the fit from there. Reach varies from person to person, unfortunatly that can be expensive if you start buying stems. Saddle position fore and aft, that varies per person too, make some tweaks and see what works best for you.

DropBarFan

I'm not sure CanoeU92's neck/shoulder soreness is a fit issue, perhaps just slight lack of training as others suggest. Surly LHT/DT AFAIK can be fitted with brifters w/o much difficulty. LHT/DT have relaxed angles/long wheelbase which softens up the ride a lot though my 80's steel/non-susp Rockhopper MTB fork soaks up bumps much better. For trails the LHT can be fitted with wide tires. One might not need 50mm/2" tires but at least there's the option there vs many other touring bikes.

Once did 40 mile ride on sport-touring bike (32 mm tires) with last 10 miles on the C&O & the ride was punishing--& that was when I was young & fit. Folks have varying tolerance for bumps so YMMV. On my DT I'm going to try Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 50mm tires as rec'd by a poster on another thread--more for occasionally bumpy local road/conditions but perhaps also for eventual GAP ride.

CanoeU92

Or maybe I just want a new one.

I did not have a problem with the distances that we covered on any given day; I could have been in better shape before my ride. None of that is going to change the things about my bike that I do not like.

I want to be able to comfortably mount fenders if conditions warrant. I do not like cables on the top tube, and I want a more relaxed geometry.

I rode the GT Grade Alloy 105 as well as the Giant Anyroad; both of them meet two of my three requirements (or 3 of the 4 if you count my desire for a new bike). I am going to ride a couple of different bikes this weekend.

I really do appreciate what everyone is saying; I am trying to take everything into account as I move forward with my prospective purchase.

mstateglfr 

If you really like a bike's features and price, and it fits well but not quite perfect due to low handlebar height, ask if a bike in your size can be ordered without the fork cut. That way, the fork length(and therefore the bar height) can be fit to you.
Not all shops/brands can(will?) do this, but its also not uncommon.

Classtime 

Get something like a Velo Orange Pass Hunter frameset and put Shimano 105 on it. Put lots of shiny alloy parts on it. 35s and fenders is plenty of tire. Ride lots. Do crunches, back extensions, and push ups.

wished

I have the Giant Anyroad II that I bought about a year ago when I got serious about cycling again, planned to use it for some touring. Rapidly found out that it is a nice bike, love riding and commuting on it, but really is not much of a dedicated touring bike. It was not designed for touring so it has very few mounts on it, one bottle mount and that's it. The only rack that really fits it is their own proprietary rack due to odd mount points. It has been great for commuting but I carried my backpack instead of bike-mounted bags, same for grocery shopping locally.

Now that I have stronger desires to tour some I have ordered a new Disc Trucker that will be ready in a few weeks. Different bikes, different purposes. I know could've adapted the Giant Anyroad II to touring, but I'm at a point in my life that I could afford the DT, so I did. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

dim

buy an old used steel mountain bike with a lightweight frame and 26" wheels

add drop bars, barcon shifters, 2 inch wide slick tyres such as Schwalbe Marathon Supreme

and mudguards, racks and a dynamo hub with lights

you will have a good bike with relaxed geometry which is good for touring and that costs very little

BTW, a Surly LHT is basically a steel mountain bike frame, with drop bars and an expensive name badge

get something like this:

phughes

Nothing wrong with that. There have been a lot of good recommendations so far. Now all you have to do is choose. Just be sure it is fitted properly so you don't end up having the same issues as you do with your current bike. Ask them to leave the steerer tube uncut, so you can set it up the way you want before cutting it. I got my LHT with the steerer tub uncut, but you have to be clear on that before you buy. I don't know if it is possible with some of the others.

The LHT does have a cable on the top tube, but it isn't a bother. I even have a pad over mine for protection when leaning the bike on sign posts and the like, and the cable isn't affected.

Long before I bought the LHT, I tried out a Kona Sutra and it felt very nice. I really was interested in a Cannonade but had trouble finding one at the time.

seeker333

You are mistaken. The only commonality between a LHT and most steel MTBs is that they have two wheels.

The LHT and all proper touring frames in general have the following features which distinguish them from a seemingly similar MTB frame:
1. long chainstays to accommodate bags (45-47cm vs 42.5cm)
2. low BB to lower center of gravity, whereas MTBs have high BB to clear off-road obstacles
3. many tourers have a shortened TT to provide appropriate reach for drop bars, whereas MTBs have lengthened TT for flat bars - the difference in TT length to accommodate these respective handlebar types and still fit a given bicyclist is 5-7cm
4. tourers have long headtubes to yield higher bar height and a more upright posture to provide some back/neck relief in consideration of the much longer time tourists spend on their bike each day
5. tourers typically are made from larger diameter, thicker walled tubing to support loads of up to 300 lbs (bicyclist+gear); MTBs typically are intended to support weight of rider only
6. additionally tourers have adequate frame fittings for racks, fenders, pump, even lighting, whereas MTB frames rarely have any of these fittings (at least not in the last twenty years)

Please take time to learn about touring bikes and touring frames in general before you dispense more bad advice on the forum.

dim

LOL .... I have a Surly Long Haul Trucker which I bought brand new

there is not much difference in the geometry of an old Bridgestone MB2 mountain bike and the Surly ....

I also have an old Bridgestone MB2 that is in very good condition and that I will be customising in the next few weeks

the Bridgestone is hand made with lugs, and is made from CroMo oversized tubing and unicrown front fork

the Bridgestone has a long chainstay

The Bridgestone has Araya RM-20 Wheels (Gold Label) which are very good

the top tube length is identical to the LHT

side by side, the 2 are almost identical in length and height

the Bridgestone is but one such mountain bike that is very similar to the Surly as regards geometry and construction, there are many more

the Surly has provision for spare spokes .... the Bridgestone does not

if you look at the price of a new Surly, versus a good old steel mountain bike, you are actually better off buying a good old mountain bike with good 26 inch wheels, having the frame resprayed, and getting all the accessories such as dynamo hub, dynamo lights, decent saddle, racks and panniers

and you will still have change left (enough to take your family on an overseas holiday) .....

when you buy a surly LHT, you get a skeleton with no extras and it has a **** saddle

a Surly LHT with no accessories costs approx £1200.00 here in the UK (approx $1570.00 USD)



here's a pic of my Bridgestone that I will be converting with fenders, front rack, drop bars, bar end shifters, dynamo hub and lights, Brooks Cambium C17 carved saddle, Ortlieb pannier bags etc etc

.... I paid £10 for the Bridgestone and it's in good condition:



here's a thread on this forum that will show you some good mountain bikes that have been converted (for cheap):

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...nversions.htmlhttps://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...nversions.html

mtn.cyclist

I have a Motobecane Fantom Cross Ti. Light, comfortable, full Ultegra, disc brakes, takes rear rack and fenders, suitable wheels. I bought this used but you can get a new one from bikesdirect.com on sale now for, I kid you not $1400!!

DropBarFan

That's amazing, BikesDirect.com says list price is $4,500 on sale for $1,600. Apparently their list prices are just salesmanship since prev years were about the same actual price. Anyway a great bargain for a Ti bike, would love to see production Ti tourers.

CanoeU92

I spent all day yesterday (and part of the day Friday) riding bikes. The Salsa Vaya, in my opinion, blows everything else that I rode out of the water; I rode the Diverge, the Straggler, the Anyroad, the Space Horse, the Makkaresh, and some Felt bike that the LBS recommended. The Vaya felt like it was specifically built for me. I put down a deposit yesterday, and I will pick up my new bike in three weeks.

My thanks to whoever suggested the Vaya because it was not a bike I was even considering.

ColonelSanders

What was it about the Vaya you liked so much?

CanoeU92

The bike feels as if it were tailor made for me.

I was comfortable from the minute that I climbed on. I took a 20 minute test ride around a neighborhood, and it felt smooth no matter what gear I was in. The handlebars were comfortable in my hands, and I was equally comfortable on the tops, in the drops, and on the hoods. There were some areas of rough pavement (which I am assuming that the salesman sent me through on purpose), and the steel frame absorbed the bumps seemingly effortlessly.

The fact that the bike met all of my criteria (no cables across the top tube, braze-ons for fenders and racks, more relaxed geometry) make the purchase a no brainer.

Squeezebox

I switched my 920 from bar ends to brifters.

phughes

Sounds like you found your bike. For me, I would want lower gearing than what they offer, but you want something for light touring, so it is geared fine for that. It's a great bike. Did you buy it?

CanoeU92

I own half of the bike right now. I will own it out right in the middle of August when I get my next pay check with "play money" in it. If I had settled for the GT, I would own it out right, but I am more than willing to wait the extra time for what to me is a much better bike.

phughes

I agree, much better to spend a little more and get the one you want. It will last a very long time. Congrats!

tcs

Rail Trails and Greenways: suggest wide tires. Really. Clearance for wider than you think would be necessary.

phughes

The Vaya comes with 40mm tires, plenty of width for rail trials. I had no issues with 1.5's, 38mm, on the GAP and C&O during Hurricane Irene. The Vaya can take up to 50mm tires. He will have no issues with the Vaya in regards to tire width.

redbagsrambler

I agree that the OP's problems may be more due to bike fit than the bike. Before buying a bike, I suggest first looking into adjusting the fit. Have a knowledgeable bike shop help.
On the other hand, who doesn't like buying a new bike? I typically use my Trek 520 for heavily loaded touring, and my Bianchi Volpe for lighter touring. Probably going to sell the Volpe though. Need to clear out some space in the garage.

CanoeU92

Fit has nothing to do with me not liking cables across the top tube or wanting braze-ons for racks and fenders.

And I have already had two fittings done on my Cross bike, by two different shops. This bike is fine for rides <2 hours, but it is not comfortable (for me anyway) beyond that point.

ColonelSanders

Thanks for that, great details there.