I had zefals for years, replaced one after it fell off frame and a car ran over it, the next one lasted a long time as well until kids took it apart and parts were lost, plus I got tired of the comments cycco mentions, another is actually getting blisters sometimes using it.

the road morph is easy to use, as said, you dont use your arm strength like with the other, the foot brace is great, it pumps to over 100 easily and you never have to worry about damaging a valve from having to hold the pump properly or the bike tipping while pumping.

the other thing I like is that being shorter, its easy to just throw into whatever pannier I have on the bike I am using that day.

I spoke too soon. Apparently Zefal makes this as an accessory - https://www.zefal.com/en/accessoires/226-z-hoze.html It comes with a built-in gauge. Good luck trying to find it anywhere local though.

WTB with a thinner handle put those Zefal's Soliblock Pumps inside the seat post.
QR seat binder made it easy to access.


so It was there and wouldn't fall Off. riding single track ..


A minipump can easily stow in your pannier , pack it with the tools and spare tube.

There is no need to add a pump peg to your bike. I just use a velcro strap to hold the pump snugly beneath the top tube. The strap can also be used a "parking brake."




We have a collection of pumps including: Road Morph, a couple of Master Blasters, and a couple of Zefals. I prefer the Master Blaster over the Road Morph. I get about one psi per stroke with the larger volume frame pump. I'm not sure how many psi I get per stroke with the Road Morph, but it seems to take forever to pump up a tire. I've had a lot of practice with all the pumps, and with a little care have not had any significant problems. However, when I get careless, I have broken off the top of the valve stem on presta valves; but I have also managed to do this with my floor pump.

I like the Zefal pumps, but the Topeak is more "rubberized", and is a easier on the paint. I have a worn spot, down to bare metal, underneath the top tube of one of my road bikes from the metal handle end of the Zefal pump. Otherwise, it is a tough dependable pump.

They all have their pros and cons. I think, like most things, it just boils down to personal preference.

PS. I forgot to add that I believe it is easier to dent the tube body on the longer frame pump. Pumps don't work very well with a dent. This is from first hand experience.

you know, it always makes me feel a bit better when I read stuff like this. I've broken bolts off on cars, snapped seatpost bolts from over tightening, put X doohickey back on when I should have put T, U, V and W beforehand, making me take it all apart again....I consider myself somewhat mechanical but with a dash of blunderer thrown in for good measure.

ps, for the record I have never broken off the top of a valve stem ;-)

pps, I recall lending my zefal to a guy who pulled up beside me on a bike path out on the island where the F1 track is here in Montreal. His rear tire was super low so I offered my pump. He stuck it on and with his furious pumping, rocked his bike back and forth enough to topple it over from his kick stand. With a mouthful of food I couldnt get the warning out in time, and he didnt move the pump as the bike went over, so off ripped his stem. I didnt have the right spare tubes to lend him, so the poor guy had a long walk ahead of him.

If you look at the picture you can see a half moon indentation at the top of the handle. This goes right across the top and matches the curve in your head tube. In the middle of the top of the handle is a hole which the pump peg fits into.

Mike

115 PSI! Crikey I thought we were all tourists here on wider tyres. On my Surly I run 700X32 at 70 PSI and on our Thorn tandem 26X1.75 we run 55 PSI easily achieve with the Zefal HPX on the road but at home I use my old Silca Track pump.

Mike

For a touring bike that Topeak Road Morph is as good as a frame pump if not better due to the flip out foot peg and flip out handle, of course the Topeak will take maybe another 10 strokes more to than a frame pump but it's made easier by those flip outs.

Since this was posted on a touring site I therefore assume you will be using the pump touring, that's a solidly made pump and is idea for that purpose. However, if you will be touring in remote areas I would take along a spare mini like the lezyne Pressure Drive or the Topeak RaceRocket and stash it in one your panniers. Then to be extra cautious take a Schrader to Presta converter, it can be used in a pinch if some odd chance both pumps have issues by enabling you to use a Schrader pump or chuck, or if the rubber bushing broke in one of the pumps you can convert the pump to Schrader and put the adapter on and pump.

Years ago I had a Master Blaster, quite frankly from what I remember of it I couldn't tell much of a difference between that one and the Road Morph other then it may have take 10 to 20 less strokes, but like I said earlier the very fact the Road Morph becomes a floor pump makes it easier to put air into tires.

thats what I recall the most, was no longer having tired triceps(?) and having to hold the end securely on the valve so not to damage it from too much movement. Pushing down into the ground allows you to use more body weight and less arm work. For me this was less work even if it required more pumps to get to X pressure.

Exactly, and you mentioned something I forgot to mention, the Topeak comes with a hose that attaches to the stem so when your pumping it the pump is putting no stress on the stem tube junction especially at higher pressures where you're exerting more force to pump with, whereas with a frame pump there is no hose and there could be some stress put on that junction. It use to be up until the last 8 years or so tube manufacture put a thicker area of rubber around the stem, or some used a metal washer to reinforce the area to prevent the stem from tearing, but to save a penny a tube manufacturers no longer do that so now preventing the stem from moving is a lot more important than it use to be and that's why more and more pump manufacturers are slowly coming out with pumps that have hoses.

I have two sets of wheels for my LHT, one set has tires labeled as 28mm but caliper at 25mm and I pump the rear of that tire up to 120 psig, ... ... with my Silca pump. And, yes I have toured with that LHT with my camping gear on my touring wheels with 37mm tires.

+ 1 for Road Morph. I mounted mine, with tie-wraps, behind the seat tube on my LHT (54/26").

I'd love to mount it like that behind the seat post. Unfortunately, bike bike doesn't have the sufficient clearance.

Thanks for this tidbit! I move my bike alot by the top tube so this could become a pain.

Don't like the extra effort to undo the velcro strap and on my touring bike which lacks the pump peg I put a plastic zip-tie around the headtube. The little nub acts as a pump peg and holds my Zefal HP-X securely under the top tube. I've used the Topeak pumps, but still prefer the HP-X.

You can get an adjustable pump peg like this one. I never had a bike with a short enough top tube for "frame fit" pumps so I've used these in the past. They work. You could also look for an old "umbrella" clip.

Your comment on a zip tie reminded me of these, it is basically a pump peg built onto a plastic clamp that uses a plastic worm gear like on hose clamps. But these are almost impossible to find in a store.
https://www.zefal.com/en/spare-parts/...ointes-xl.html

Ha! Ha! Beat ya to it!

Yes, I'm sure they work - but so does a zip-tie. Why would I want a $5 part to replace one that costs about a penny. And the zip-tie looks a lot better as well.

I got some double sided velcro .. you can find it as wire bundle ties at like Radio Shack .

That is exactly how I mounted mine to my Surly. I was going to get a frame pump, but since I had the space behind the seat tube I went with the Road Morph. Great pump. Gotta love 26 inch wheels for this particular situation.

I moved mine to the left seat stay after the second time I took the pump off to put the bike on a car rack and drove off with it sitting on the trunk or the back of the rack. One less thing to forget, one less pump to buy.

I like the Topeak for the hose and upright position. It's attached in a mount between the downtube and the bottle cage. I don't like having anything under the top tube (or the top part of the seat tube). It gets in the way when I grab my bike plus I also commute on my tourer and need to carry it over the shoulder where a frame pump is a nuisance.

By the way, Topeak does sell a water cage side mount instead of that very stupid center line mount that prevents a water cage to be used, god forbid we would need two water bottles! See this (scan down to the part): https://todson.com/shop/wb-bracket-fo...t-harpoon-mini

I've never had a problem with my good old aluminum Zefal HP (the 70s version) direct-to-valvestem frame pump. I've had one on my Fuji since '76! Yes, it does take a bit of effort to get to 105psi, but I'm still riding on 27x1-1/8 (that's 28mm) tires. BUT from home I either use an air compressor or a floor pump. I only use the frame pump if I have a flat on the road. The trick I've learned over the years is to use my off hand to hold the head of the pump AND I wrap a couple of fingers around the spoke(s) near the valve stem. I've NEVER torn a stem that way...