Nitto Technomic
#1
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Nitto Technomic
I saw this slammed Technomic on a bike for sale here.
I offered to trade the guy a 2 years old Nitto Dynamic + $15 for it because I'd like a tall stem and I've never seen one around before.

This stem will be taller than my Dynamic/ Cinelli 1A right? Does anyone know by around how much? It might be kinda old and i'm not sure if they changed the length or anything.
I've had older cinelli stems break on me. Is it crazy to trade a nitto i bought new for an older stem?
Also, it's on a 52cm bike. Wouldn't it be gripping the butted part of the steerer slammed like this?
Is the technomic a good quality stem?
Thanks guys.
I offered to trade the guy a 2 years old Nitto Dynamic + $15 for it because I'd like a tall stem and I've never seen one around before.

This stem will be taller than my Dynamic/ Cinelli 1A right? Does anyone know by around how much? It might be kinda old and i'm not sure if they changed the length or anything.
I've had older cinelli stems break on me. Is it crazy to trade a nitto i bought new for an older stem?
Also, it's on a 52cm bike. Wouldn't it be gripping the butted part of the steerer slammed like this?
Is the technomic a good quality stem?
Thanks guys.
#3
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From: Rochester, NY
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The Technomic is most commonly a very tall stem but has been made in two heights, IIRC. How much taller then some other stem is hard to say without measuring. Additionally steerers have a butted section with a smaller ID at some point as the stem fits inside the steerer that can prevent a stem from inserting beyond a set point. Lastly the clamping diameter 9of the bars) can be either a 25.4 or a 26.0mm. It's prudent to not mix the fits.
Seems to me that the answers are easy to discover without involving the world. Andy.
Seems to me that the answers are easy to discover without involving the world. Andy.
#4
There is a Technomic and a Technomic Deluxe. The deluxe is shorter, cold forged, has a nicer finish and is more expensive. the lengths of both can be found online. The Technomic shown above may have been shortened. I have shortened a couple of Deluxes.
#5
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From: Middle Earth (aka IA)
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Ben's cycles is a great source for nitto stems and handlebars. The measurements can be found on their webpage. Universal cycles also has measurements and carries a pretty good selection of nitto stuff (not as good a selection as Ben's though).
#6
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From: Upstate NY
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If a stem is mounted that deep into a 52 cm frame, I've got a feeling it's not a very long stem. I generally ride 54 cm frames and can't get any of my average-length stems seated that deeply before they bottom out.
#8
That Nitto Technomic is not full length if it's that deep into the head tube. That head tube would have to be very long to swallow that up. I'm pretty sure it's been cut. I usually leave 2.5" of system in as safety and even then a full size Technomic sits 5-6" above the locknut.
#10
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I tried that suggestion. Andy.
#11
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Thanks all.
I should just go and look at it to see. Nitto stuff i've had has always been very good but if it's been cut i'll keep my dynamic. I didn't even realize you could cut quill stems.
I am just being lazy!
Maybe someone can answer me an easy question so i wont start another thread.
Do the steerer tubes on threaded 1" forks have to be the same length? I'm changing out a bent fork and the one I want to use is a bit longer. The headset is a Rudelli needle bearing one that came stock on my F Moser Forma. I have a sharp hacksaw but no pipe cutting tool.
I should just go and look at it to see. Nitto stuff i've had has always been very good but if it's been cut i'll keep my dynamic. I didn't even realize you could cut quill stems.
I am just being lazy!
Maybe someone can answer me an easy question so i wont start another thread.
Do the steerer tubes on threaded 1" forks have to be the same length? I'm changing out a bent fork and the one I want to use is a bit longer. The headset is a Rudelli needle bearing one that came stock on my F Moser Forma. I have a sharp hacksaw but no pipe cutting tool.
#12
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Bikes: Gunnar, Concorde, Peugeot 753, Marin, Pete Tansley, Rocky Mtn, Worldrider, Francis Quinlan, Bob Jackson, Winora, Avanti, Klein, Quintana Roo, Shogun, Carlton, Emmelle, Specialized
#13
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Thanks all.
I should just go and look at it to see. Nitto stuff i've had has always been very good but if it's been cut i'll keep my dynamic. I didn't even realize you could cut quill stems.
I am just being lazy!
Maybe someone can answer me an easy question so i wont start another thread.
Do the steerer tubes on threaded 1" forks have to be the same length? I'm changing out a bent fork and the one I want to use is a bit longer. The headset is a Rudelli needle bearing one that came stock on my F Moser Forma. I have a sharp hacksaw but no pipe cutting tool.
I should just go and look at it to see. Nitto stuff i've had has always been very good but if it's been cut i'll keep my dynamic. I didn't even realize you could cut quill stems.
I am just being lazy!
Maybe someone can answer me an easy question so i wont start another thread.
Do the steerer tubes on threaded 1" forks have to be the same length? I'm changing out a bent fork and the one I want to use is a bit longer. The headset is a Rudelli needle bearing one that came stock on my F Moser Forma. I have a sharp hacksaw but no pipe cutting tool.
Edit
I wouldn't cut it for 3 mm. Spacers are your friends.
#14
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From: New Zealand
Bikes: Gunnar, Concorde, Peugeot 753, Marin, Pete Tansley, Rocky Mtn, Worldrider, Francis Quinlan, Bob Jackson, Winora, Avanti, Klein, Quintana Roo, Shogun, Carlton, Emmelle, Specialized
#15
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
The other important spec is how far down the steerer the threading goes. Of course it needs to be enough to house the threared portion of the headset (and cutting more threads can be a tricky and possibly damaging effort). But also where the end of the threads are WRT the wedge of the stem. You REALLY don't want the stem to be trying to split open the steerer right where's there a bunch of deep stress risers. ARS.








