Rear Shift Cable Stop gone missing - Scott CR-1 Pro
03-20-19, 03:34 PM
#1
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Rear Shift Cable Stop gone missing - Scott CR-1 Pro
Thought I'd snapped a shift cable until I took a closer look. Is it as bad news as I think it is?
Thanks.
Shift cable stop under chain stay is missing:
For comparison, the shift cable stops under the downtube:
-mr. bill
Thanks.
Shift cable stop under chain stay is missing:
For comparison, the shift cable stops under the downtube:
-mr. bill
Last edited by mr_bill; 03-20-19 at 03:40 PM.
03-20-19, 04:07 PM
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Yes, it's bad, the CR1 hasn't been produced since 2013, and it has a max of 5-year warranty, so that's gone now.
Maybe try and find a cable stop you can epoxy on, won't be pretty, but it's underneath, so who cares, it's only a guide as well, so won't be under too much stress.
If you're going to look at the professional carbon repair shop route, you will need to work out if it's viable, rather than just getting a new frame
Maybe try and find a cable stop you can epoxy on, won't be pretty, but it's underneath, so who cares, it's only a guide as well, so won't be under too much stress.
If you're going to look at the professional carbon repair shop route, you will need to work out if it's viable, rather than just getting a new frame
03-20-19, 07:04 PM
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Can you ride back to where you started having issues, and look for the part...
Yes, needle in a haystack.
Also contact Scott, Ruckus Composites, and Calfee to see if they have the part laying around, or could make one for not too much.
Hmmm...
Perhaps the part could be made easily enough. Single cable stop.
I should have a CR1 frame around here to look at.
Yes, needle in a haystack.
Also contact Scott, Ruckus Composites, and Calfee to see if they have the part laying around, or could make one for not too much.
Hmmm...
Perhaps the part could be made easily enough. Single cable stop.
I should have a CR1 frame around here to look at.
03-21-19, 04:26 AM
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It won't match, but you can rivet on a new cable stop. https://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle...ET-SILVER.html
03-21-19, 05:19 AM
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03-21-19, 01:21 PM
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It won't match, but you can rivet on a new cable stop. https://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle...ET-SILVER.html
https://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle...STI_SS_35.html
Although it might require some bending to get it to the right shape.
I'd probably take a solid block of either ABS plastic or Aluminum, and within a few hours with a drill, hacksaw, file, and grinder, shape it down the the triangle shape of the original, and epoxy it on.
03-21-19, 05:22 PM
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Just to make it work, I played with the limit screw and now I’m running a quite unconventional 2x1 50/34 x 14.
Buys me time to find out how much a proper fix is going to cost.
So, yeah, running housing all the way down is an option. Which buys me even more time.
In a perfect world it would have failed just before I ruptured my Achilles. But no, wait until he starts to walk again.
-mr. bill
Buys me time to find out how much a proper fix is going to cost.
So, yeah, running housing all the way down is an option. Which buys me even more time.
In a perfect world it would have failed just before I ruptured my Achilles. But no, wait until he starts to walk again.
-mr. bill
Last edited by mr_bill; 03-24-19 at 01:54 PM.
03-22-19, 09:19 AM
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03-22-19, 03:09 PM
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03-22-19, 04:20 PM
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If it was a steel (or even aluminum) frame, you might use some kind of a metal clamp on stop.
But, I wouldn't do that with a carbon frame.
03-24-19, 12:44 PM
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I know free advice is worth every penny, but I don’t understand willfully gleefully giving truly awful advice. (Hose clamp for cable stop, even on steel frame, is ill advised.)
Back from travels, so, the less temporary fix is done - running shift cable from inline barrel adjuster to under bottom bracket to rear derailleur. (Thanks to the folks confirming that solution.)
Estimate for a proper fix is $300-$400 plus two weeks. I have a long trip coming up that will cover most of that time.
Now my hard decision if I ought to sink the money into a proper fix. (Mad props to LBS for not only not trying to sell me a new bike, but not even suggesting it.)
(I’m simply not comfortable with an amateur repair of cleaning failed epoxy plus removing and replacing failed rivnut. Epoxy alone will not be a long term repair. Cable stops take more load than most imagine.)
-mr. bill
Back from travels, so, the less temporary fix is done - running shift cable from inline barrel adjuster to under bottom bracket to rear derailleur. (Thanks to the folks confirming that solution.)
Estimate for a proper fix is $300-$400 plus two weeks. I have a long trip coming up that will cover most of that time.
Now my hard decision if I ought to sink the money into a proper fix. (Mad props to LBS for not only not trying to sell me a new bike, but not even suggesting it.)
(I’m simply not comfortable with an amateur repair of cleaning failed epoxy plus removing and replacing failed rivnut. Epoxy alone will not be a long term repair. Cable stops take more load than most imagine.)
-mr. bill
Last edited by mr_bill; 03-24-19 at 12:59 PM.
03-24-19, 01:14 PM
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$300 to $400 isn't too unexpected.
However, also consider the value of the frame.
You could probably replace your Scott with a similar used frame for about $500, and sell yours on for $200 or so.
However, also consider the value of the frame.
You could probably replace your Scott with a similar used frame for about $500, and sell yours on for $200 or so.
Last edited by CliffordK; 03-24-19 at 02:59 PM.
03-24-19, 01:19 PM
#14
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a pin, perhaps a pop rivet thru the frame tube can help with the Shear forces applied .across it.. ..
and perhaps in the case of re epoxying it on Hold the piece on while the epoxy is cooking /curing..
maybe that spot seen in 1st picture was one? but it sheared off, as the stop lost its bonding.. ..
and perhaps in the case of re epoxying it on Hold the piece on while the epoxy is cooking /curing..
maybe that spot seen in 1st picture was one? but it sheared off, as the stop lost its bonding.. ..
03-24-19, 01:28 PM
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I've never understood the need for notched cable stops.
It is almost easier just to thread the cable through the holes.
In this case, if there wasn't a notch, then the old piece would likely have been left hanging on the cable. And, if not broken, could have been easily epoxied back in place.
It is almost easier just to thread the cable through the holes.
In this case, if there wasn't a notch, then the old piece would likely have been left hanging on the cable. And, if not broken, could have been easily epoxied back in place.
03-24-19, 07:45 PM
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See the rivet here that has not failed:
-mr. bill
03-24-19, 09:05 PM
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I've never understood the need for notched cable stops.
It is almost easier just to thread the cable through the holes.
In this case, if there wasn't a notch, then the old piece would likely have been left hanging on the cable. And, if not broken, could have been easily epoxied back in place.
It is almost easier just to thread the cable through the holes.
In this case, if there wasn't a notch, then the old piece would likely have been left hanging on the cable. And, if not broken, could have been easily epoxied back in place.
As to the repair of this frame- If the frame is a keeper I would suggest a proper repair.
Oh and hose clamped stops work fine if done well. But with a carbon frame more care should be taken to address the clamp's compressive pressure tending to focus about the worm screw/housing. Just one more reason why I don't ride carbon, it's less tolerant of make shift repairs. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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03-28-19, 03:26 PM
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Matching cable stop from Calfee.
It was so cheap and picture looked so close that I had to take a look at it in person so on a whim ordered one. Color I got delivered is different (more bronze than black, matches the pic in the how to pdf).
But other than that, dimensions are spot on the same as the needle lost in the haystack.
Replying here in case someone in the future wants to do their own repair on a missing cable stop.
(In the meantime, I’m in no rush, the temporary fix is just fine.)
-mr. bill
It was so cheap and picture looked so close that I had to take a look at it in person so on a whim ordered one. Color I got delivered is different (more bronze than black, matches the pic in the how to pdf).
But other than that, dimensions are spot on the same as the needle lost in the haystack.
Replying here in case someone in the future wants to do their own repair on a missing cable stop.
(In the meantime, I’m in no rush, the temporary fix is just fine.)
-mr. bill
06-10-19, 08:23 PM
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So, follow up.
Had the cable stop professionally repaired.
The “permanent” fix lasted a month. Like I said, “Cable stops take more load than most people imagine.”
LBS was wonderful. Great discount on “last year’s” model, plus refund failed repair, plus “trade-in” I have a new Scott for not much more than a frameset.
-mr. bill
Had the cable stop professionally repaired.
The “permanent” fix lasted a month. Like I said, “Cable stops take more load than most people imagine.”
LBS was wonderful. Great discount on “last year’s” model, plus refund failed repair, plus “trade-in” I have a new Scott for not much more than a frameset.
-mr. bill
06-10-19, 08:37 PM
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Sorry to hear that the repair failed, but I'm glad you got a solution you're happy with.
It would be fun to try a "home repair" if you could get the frame back.
It would be fun to try a "home repair" if you could get the frame back.
06-10-19, 08:48 PM
#21
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So just a bit sad that I let a damn good bike down.
-mr. bill
06-11-19, 07:10 PM
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Well, on the bright side, you now have a very high-tech single speed or fixie frame.
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