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Rear Shift Cable Stop gone missing - Scott CR-1 Pro

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Rear Shift Cable Stop gone missing - Scott CR-1 Pro

Old 03-20-19, 03:34 PM
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mr_bill
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Rear Shift Cable Stop gone missing - Scott CR-1 Pro

Thought I'd snapped a shift cable until I took a closer look. Is it as bad news as I think it is?

Thanks.

Shift cable stop under chain stay is missing:



For comparison, the shift cable stops under the downtube:


-mr. bill

Last edited by mr_bill; 03-20-19 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 03-20-19, 04:07 PM
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Yes, it's bad, the CR1 hasn't been produced since 2013, and it has a max of 5-year warranty, so that's gone now.

Maybe try and find a cable stop you can epoxy on, won't be pretty, but it's underneath, so who cares, it's only a guide as well, so won't be under too much stress.

If you're going to look at the professional carbon repair shop route, you will need to work out if it's viable, rather than just getting a new frame
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Old 03-20-19, 04:21 PM
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To just make it work again,run housed cable all the way and zip tie it down..


...
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Old 03-20-19, 07:04 PM
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Can you ride back to where you started having issues, and look for the part...

Yes, needle in a haystack.

Also contact Scott, Ruckus Composites, and Calfee to see if they have the part laying around, or could make one for not too much.

Hmmm...
Perhaps the part could be made easily enough. Single cable stop.

I should have a CR1 frame around here to look at.
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Old 03-21-19, 04:26 AM
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It won't match, but you can rivet on a new cable stop. https://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle...ET-SILVER.html
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Old 03-21-19, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
To just make it work again,run housed cable all the way and zip tie it down..


...
This ^^^^^ is what I was going to suggest.
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Old 03-21-19, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dsaul View Post
It won't match, but you can rivet on a new cable stop. https://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle...ET-SILVER.html
I looked at Nova yesterday. I kind of liked this one.

https://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle...STI_SS_35.html



Although it might require some bending to get it to the right shape.

I'd probably take a solid block of either ABS plastic or Aluminum, and within a few hours with a drill, hacksaw, file, and grinder, shape it down the the triangle shape of the original, and epoxy it on.
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Old 03-21-19, 05:22 PM
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Just to make it work, I played with the limit screw and now I’m running a quite unconventional 2x1 50/34 x 14.

Buys me time to find out how much a proper fix is going to cost.

So, yeah, running housing all the way down is an option. Which buys me even more time.

In a perfect world it would have failed just before I ruptured my Achilles. But no, wait until he starts to walk again.

-mr. bill

Last edited by mr_bill; 03-24-19 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 03-22-19, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mr_bill View Post
So, yeah, running housing all the way down is an option. Which buys me even more time.
Iíve been running full length shifter housing on all my mountain bikes for years.
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Old 03-22-19, 03:09 PM
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https://www.amazon.com/LOKMAN-Adjust...b-d5ca0ca39f93
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Old 03-22-19, 04:20 PM
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If it was a steel (or even aluminum) frame, you might use some kind of a metal clamp on stop.

But, I wouldn't do that with a carbon frame.
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Old 03-24-19, 12:44 PM
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I know free advice is worth every penny, but I don’t understand willfully gleefully giving truly awful advice. (Hose clamp for cable stop, even on steel frame, is ill advised.)

Back from travels, so, the less temporary fix is done - running shift cable from inline barrel adjuster to under bottom bracket to rear derailleur. (Thanks to the folks confirming that solution.)

Estimate for a proper fix is $300-$400 plus two weeks. I have a long trip coming up that will cover most of that time.

Now my hard decision if I ought to sink the money into a proper fix. (Mad props to LBS for not only not trying to sell me a new bike, but not even suggesting it.)

(I’m simply not comfortable with an amateur repair of cleaning failed epoxy plus removing and replacing failed rivnut. Epoxy alone will not be a long term repair. Cable stops take more load than most imagine.)

-mr. bill



Last edited by mr_bill; 03-24-19 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 03-24-19, 01:14 PM
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$300 to $400 isn't too unexpected.

However, also consider the value of the frame.

You could probably replace your Scott with a similar used frame for about $500, and sell yours on for $200 or so.

Last edited by CliffordK; 03-24-19 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 03-24-19, 01:19 PM
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a pin, perhaps a pop rivet thru the frame tube can help with the Shear forces applied .across it.. ..
and perhaps in the case of re epoxying it on Hold the piece on while the epoxy is cooking /curing..

maybe that spot seen in 1st picture was one? but it sheared off, as the stop lost its bonding.. ..
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Old 03-24-19, 01:28 PM
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I've never understood the need for notched cable stops.

It is almost easier just to thread the cable through the holes.

In this case, if there wasn't a notch, then the old piece would likely have been left hanging on the cable. And, if not broken, could have been easily epoxied back in place.
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Old 03-24-19, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
maybe that spot seen in 1st picture was one? but it sheared off, as the stop lost its bonding.. ..
There was definitely a rivet there, but I suspect it failed under tension rather than shear. Once the rivet failed, the epoxy got peeled off the interface between frame and stop.

See the rivet here that has not failed:



-mr. bill
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Old 03-24-19, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by CliffordK View Post
I've never understood the need for notched cable stops.

It is almost easier just to thread the cable through the holes.

In this case, if there wasn't a notch, then the old piece would likely have been left hanging on the cable. And, if not broken, could have been easily epoxied back in place.
Maybe but then the after use servicing has more easy options if the stops are slotted. It's far easier to pull the cable/casing out of the stop to clean and lube the cable that is inside the casing if you can slide the casing away from the normally covered cable portion. Do you run STI or Ergo levers? If so periodic checking of the cable's condition at the lever's end is a smart move, made far easier if (again) you can pull the cable/casing off a stop. If non slotted stops were really better we wouldn't have any that are slotted.

As to the repair of this frame- If the frame is a keeper I would suggest a proper repair.

Oh and hose clamped stops work fine if done well. But with a carbon frame more care should be taken to address the clamp's compressive pressure tending to focus about the worm screw/housing. Just one more reason why I don't ride carbon, it's less tolerant of make shift repairs. Andy
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Old 03-28-19, 03:26 PM
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Matching cable stop from Calfee.

It was so cheap and picture looked so close that I had to take a look at it in person so on a whim ordered one. Color I got delivered is different (more bronze than black, matches the pic in the how to pdf).

But other than that, dimensions are spot on the same as the needle lost in the haystack.

Replying here in case someone in the future wants to do their own repair on a missing cable stop.

(In the meantime, I’m in no rush, the temporary fix is just fine.)

-mr. bill
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