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Hints and tricks thread

Old 02-24-19, 06:36 PM
  #651  
Le Mechanic
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Great easy upgrade if you're hard on brakes!

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Old 03-04-19, 03:57 PM
  #652  
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I buy / repair / sell bikes. I found an older TREK 730 that was in fairly nice shape. One problem it had was the grip shifters rubber had degraded somewhat where they felt "sticky". Not bad, but not comfortable to use, and I did not really want to replace the shifters. I knew that wrapping them in tape or some such would not last for long. I found a good easy solution. I found some large shrink tube on Amazon that slipped over the shifter, and used a heat gun to shrink it to the shifter surface. Trimmed the edge with a razor blade, re-installed the handlebar grips, and have an easy and relatively cheap repair.
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Old 03-09-19, 08:54 AM
  #653  
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Chain cleaning

I posted this many years ago, seems like it was on this forum. A MUCH younger forum.

You need:
1. Orbital hand held sander
2. Coffee can. Metal if your cleaner is mineral based, plastic if "green".
3. Wire clothes hanger, cut and straightened with a hook on it (to hang the wet chain)

Take off your chain, into the coffee can it goes.
Add cleaner of choice. PUT THE LID ON THE CAN, it will splatter.
Flip the sander on to it's back and HOLD the can on the pad.
Turn on the sander for however long you want.
Repeat as necessary.
Remove the chain and use the clothes hanger to suspend the chain to dry.
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Old 04-06-19, 12:46 AM
  #654  
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Cutting multi-strand cables

I have found this method keeps the cable strands from splaying when cutting, similar to soldering without the hassle.

Wrap the area you are going to cut with a little more than one layer of green masking tape.
I do it so the cut is in the middle of the tape.
Make sure the tape is really tightly wound around the cable.
Mark the cut line with a pen.
Make a firm quick cut with your cable cutters.
Remove the tape.
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Old 04-06-19, 12:55 AM
  #655  
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ArmorAll your SPD-SL cleats

Sometimes I find after changing my cleats that shoe/pedal engagement can be stiff.
I spray a small amount of ArmorAll on my finger and then spread it around the cleat and
in the areas of the pedal that contact the cleat and this eases engagement for weeks.
Warning - this will make your shoe and pedal engagement action very slippery, so try a
very small amount at first. If you don't like it, wash it off thoroughly with dish detergent and
water.
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Old 04-08-19, 09:04 AM
  #656  
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Originally Posted by kawartha View Post
Cutting multi-strand cables

I have found this method keeps the cable strands from splaying when cutting, similar to soldering without the hassle.

Wrap the area you are going to cut with a little more than one layer of green masking tape.
I do it so the cut is in the middle of the tape.
Make sure the tape is really tightly wound around the cable.
Mark the cut line with a pen.
Make a firm quick cut with your cable cutters.
Remove the tape.
What color should the line be?
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Old 04-08-19, 12:18 PM
  #657  
kawartha 
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Same color as the handlebar tape, with an allowed hue variance of 3.14159 on the face.
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Old 04-09-19, 09:17 AM
  #658  
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destroying crank spider

I was stripping a bike that I was working on for the Bike Exchange and when it came to the cranks I realized thea the drive side threads were stripped. The thing was really on there and I couldn't shift it with the use of 2 Automotive pickle forks . It had to come off or I would have to saw through the bottom bracket spindle . I thought maybe I could saw through it on one side which might allow me to pull it off. Then I thought maybe it would be easier to drill through the aluminum .

I clamped the frame to the table of my drill press and filed a flat spot on the crank spider then drilled a hole as close to the edge of the square taper spindle as I could . Then I drilled another hole next to it . By then I had drilled almost completely from the spindle to the outside of the spider. a small wood chisel was used to cut through the remaining sliver of aluminum . At this point a tap on the pickle fork wedged between the spider and the bottom bracket popped the spider off. It was at that point that I saw the tin wedge that had been inserted between the spider and the square tapered spindle.

I had taken this bike home because it was a Bianchi and they have some name recognition and thus a bit more value as a sale bike. After all was said and done though I realized that this bike was nothing special. It was a franken bike whan I found it and will be one when I am finished. It will be rebuilt with low value components and probably donated out to one of our client organizations.
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Old 04-11-19, 08:58 PM
  #659  
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I have done a similar stuck crank arm on tapered square BB axle removal a few times. But I use a hack saw to slot a diagonal cut across the axle end of the crank arm. The angle of the cut is determined by things like frame avoidance. You want the cut to be as parallel to the axle as possible yet avoid the shell and don't whack into the stay or tubes with the hack saw. Once the cut is close the axle I hammer in a chisel or flat bladed screw driver to fracture the remaining un cut arm end and thus expand the arm end away from the axle. Andy
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