Fixing flat and truing the wheel?
#1
Fixing flat and truing the wheel?
Just recently I had flat tire on my rear wheel. I replaced the innter tube and put everything back. On my first ride I hear "sheesh ... sheesh ... sheesh". I stopped, lifted the rear wheel from the ground and turned it by stepping on the pedals. The brake pads are touching wheel's rim and the wheel seems going slightly from side to side. Is it possible that while fixing the flat I accidently brought the wheel out of its delicate balance? When I lift the wheel, lean the bike on one side and turn the wheel -- the "sheesh ... sheesh" sound is more pronounced.
Last edited by bagel007; 02-22-10 at 03:14 PM. Reason: spelling
#2
Greg
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Columbus, GA
Bikes: Gold Rush (expedition model)
bagel007;
Did you check to make sure you pulled the wheel firmly back in the dropouts? I had the same prob once & simply loosened the quick release & reseated the wheel & everything was good to go.
Greg
Did you check to make sure you pulled the wheel firmly back in the dropouts? I had the same prob once & simply loosened the quick release & reseated the wheel & everything was good to go.
Greg
#3
#4
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I doubt you put it out of line while working on the flat. It's possible that it got mis-aligned while riding with the almost flat tire before you noticed it. Or if it's only slightly out of line it's possible that when you repositioned the wheel it went back slightly to one side or the other and now rubs.
Step one, loosen and reposition the wheel with the bike on the floor and held straight up, letting the wheel find it's home spot, then retighten the QR or nuts. (If you have horizontal dropouts, you might have to hold it centered between the chainstays).
if that didn't solve it, and the total side to side wobble is less than 1/16" try re-centering the brake. If the wobble exceeds 1/16", consider having it re-aligned or DIY if you feel up to it. Here's a helpful site if you want to get started aligning your own wheels. My advice is take it slow and stay within your comfort zone.
Step one, loosen and reposition the wheel with the bike on the floor and held straight up, letting the wheel find it's home spot, then retighten the QR or nuts. (If you have horizontal dropouts, you might have to hold it centered between the chainstays).
if that didn't solve it, and the total side to side wobble is less than 1/16" try re-centering the brake. If the wobble exceeds 1/16", consider having it re-aligned or DIY if you feel up to it. Here's a helpful site if you want to get started aligning your own wheels. My advice is take it slow and stay within your comfort zone.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
#7
#8
How can I do that? I don't have a workstand, so I'll have to do it with the bike upside down and turning the wheel with pedals. It's impossible to hold the rear wheel in the air and working on the brake. I'm not sure I can fix the problem, but at least I could do the wobble measurement ... only if I knew how to do it and had the right tools for it. Any external link would be appreaciated.
#9
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
However, if the wheel is out of true by less than 1/16th or so, I'll bet it's been that way, and became an issue because of repositioning.
Either put the wheel home by closing the QR on the ground as others and I suggested, and if necessary re-center the brakes for that position, or manually center the wheel to best clear the brakes and close the QR there. The second approach is less desirable because it means re-centering the wheel every time you open the QR.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#10
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
You don't need a workstand. You can either have a friend hold the bike, hang it someplace by the saddles nose, or flip it upside down using books or bricks to support the handlebar on either side of the stem.
To measure the wheel's runout (wobble) spin the wheel until the highest spot just touches the brake, then slowly continue spinning it until it's farthest away. How wide is that gap? If it rubs over a long length and the rim actually pushes the brake away, estimate and add that amount.
Centering a brake is also fairly simple, but before we go there, lets find out what the wheel situation is.
To measure the wheel's runout (wobble) spin the wheel until the highest spot just touches the brake, then slowly continue spinning it until it's farthest away. How wide is that gap? If it rubs over a long length and the rim actually pushes the brake away, estimate and add that amount.
Centering a brake is also fairly simple, but before we go there, lets find out what the wheel situation is.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#11
Last edited by bagel007; 02-22-10 at 07:43 PM. Reason: spelling
#12
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From: Melbourne, Oz
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
So, almost certainly not possible unless you jumped on it. Most likely you put it back in a little crooked. I guess there's an outside chance of some sort of weird interaction between tyre pressure and spoke tension going on, but highly doubtful that there'd be any difference between your spoke tension with an inflated tyre pre and post flat fix.
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