I've read this somewhere and I'm wondering if its correct, When adjusting the cones for the hubs to leave a tiny bit of play in it so when you tighten the quick release it will illiminate the play. Is this correct?

yes. and its a just a hair. first few times, you'll probably find you want to redo it until its right

Here's all you need to do it: Read the text, and follow the embedded link to the Park Tool site for further information.
Wil's way

HTH -
- Wil

Keep in mind that hub bearings come in 2 general classes, the angular contact traditional cop/cone bearings which need to be adjusted for absolutely zero play, and radial contact typical of cartridge bearings, which should be left with a bit of axial play (radial play is not adjustable).

The goal is to end up with correct adjustment for either design after the QR is tightened, so you start just slightly (very slightly) looser to allow for some compression of the hollow axle.

Thanks for the input I will try to remember this and Thanks for the link Wil Davis

This is because the hollow axles bow a little under compression. I seem to remember reading a Sheldon page on which he showed a tool he had made using an old QR. It had some low profile spacers - so you could clamp it and load up the axle - but still get to the cones to adjust them.

2/3 way down this page, heading [h=2]Special tool for rapid cone adjustment under load[/h]
: https://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

Cup and cone bearings require a small amount of play when off the bike that goes away when the QR is closed. The bearings should be adjusted so that is a small amount of preload on them when the QR is clamped.
Nutted axles should have the preload before they are installed because the axle is not compressed.

I have also learned this in many guiding articles. But I am confused when I check on new or nos hubs and wheels at LBS. They are factory-adjusted without any tiny play when off the frame.

Not sure if you meant to reply to 4 years old post

Look inside and you'll probably see very little grease too.
That's just the way they are from the factory. (not always, but typically)

I've always just adjusted the cones to how I want them before installing.

However, perhaps you could add a couple of thick washers (5mm axle spacers?) to the ends of the axle, and clamp down the skewers, just to see if everything is perfect.

Bolt on axles don't significantly compress the axle.

I adjust my C-record cones on the bike, tighten off the bike, and re-check on the bike.

Yes, some Campy hubs had split adjustable cones that allowed you to do the final adjustment with the wheel fully clamped in the dropouts and tighten the cone until the play at the rim just disappeared. Then you locked the cone in place with a set screw that pinched the sides of the cone together. A great system and too bad it wasn't more common.

I can make them free-spin just as long as the very best sealed-bearing hubs. Don't know that it really gains anything, but it feels good.

I believe it is the carrier of the cone or bearing that is split, otherwise the balls would be riding over the split and erode the ball track there. Chris King has a similar system, Mavic's just uses a friction fir between the carrier and the axle.


But the goal of a free as possible bearing with no (angular contact) or minimal (radial contact) slop is a real benefit to bearing life. Regardless of whether a rider will feel it as they ride. Andy

The system was borrowed from the original design of threadless headsets. It uses a split centering cone to locate and adjust the bearing's inner race.

Right. It isn't the actual "cone" that's split but what amounts to a an adjustable compression ring that pushes on the insert that is the true cone. Nevertheless, it's a great design.

Zombie thread walks the Forum.

I'm good with zombie threads. It means that some are using the archives at least. Andy

Yeah but this one had only been dormant for less than 4 years. That's practically brand new compared to some that have been resurrected here.

I never worry about leaving play. I believe the issue is over-rated. Your observation about factory settings suggests as much.

Well, us fussy types consider those hubs as too tight as assembled and usually check both for adequate lube and readjust the bearings before putting them into service.

Believe what you choose, but the factory "adjustment" is often extremely tight, rather than just not having play. I have seen hubs/cones damaged because they were never adjusted when first assembled.

In my experience, Shimano tends to tighten a bit too much and it, as well as many other producers, tend to grease a bit too little.

Hub overhaul, the OCD way:

Bicycle hub overhaul - Cycle Gremlin