zero setback post
#1
zero setback post
is there a 90s era silver post with zero setback that i dont know about?
i need one with a 27.2 diameter, a c-record aero post with no setback would be perfect but im pretty sure that doesnt exist.
has short legs, wants to keep it period(ish)
posted this in 41 by accident but noones moving it over here so im reposting, deal with it.
i need one with a 27.2 diameter, a c-record aero post with no setback would be perfect but im pretty sure that doesnt exist.
has short legs, wants to keep it period(ish)
posted this in 41 by accident but noones moving it over here so im reposting, deal with it.
#3
spondylitis.org


Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Fleetwood, PA, USA
Bikes: '84 Colnago Super; '90 Bridgestone MB-1; '81 Trek 930; '01 Cinelli Supercorsa; '62 Ideor Asso; '87 Tommasini Super Prestige; '13 Lynskey R2300; '84 Serotta Nova Special; '94 Litespeed Catalyst; etc.
Kalloy also makes an Uno seatpost in zero offset. It comes in a bunch of different seat-tube diameters, too. Only drawback is that it is made in the ROC and doesn't technically qualify as C&V hardware.
#6
Senior Member


Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Twin Cities, Minnesota, USA
Bikes: 2017 Salsa Carbon Mukluk frame built with XT, 2018 Kona Rove NRB build with Sram Apex 1,2008 Salsa El Mariachi, 1986 Centurion Ironman
+1 on the Thomson Elite. I just put a 0 setback on my Team Miyata. Rode it for the first time yesterday. It's perfect. Light and attractive, incrementally adjustable.
#7
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race

Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
It's refreshing to hear of C&Vers who use and have used zero-offset posts.
For years, all I usually heard of was from those looking for seemingly ever-more offset, which to me makes a road bike into, ...something else.
I'm 55 now. I've noticed that with a more-forward saddle, a more comfortable reach to the bars is achievable without having to shorten the stem extension (which would tend to overly quicken the steering feel of many a C&V frame). The forward saddle also rotates the rider's lower body forward, such that a more aero position is had with less bending at the waist. The rider is also rewarded with a quicker and less-strenuous transition to a standing position for attacking steep grades, which allows more-frequent adjustment to one's position in response to terrain.
Here in this crowd though, I must be preaching to the choir, and to those who perhaps perhaps ride on frames built to the large side.
<<<So let's see your C&V bikes set up with zero-offset fitting!>>>
The build below typifies one of my fit re-doings, since this frame is large and the stem was increased from an 80 to a 115:
For years, all I usually heard of was from those looking for seemingly ever-more offset, which to me makes a road bike into, ...something else.
I'm 55 now. I've noticed that with a more-forward saddle, a more comfortable reach to the bars is achievable without having to shorten the stem extension (which would tend to overly quicken the steering feel of many a C&V frame). The forward saddle also rotates the rider's lower body forward, such that a more aero position is had with less bending at the waist. The rider is also rewarded with a quicker and less-strenuous transition to a standing position for attacking steep grades, which allows more-frequent adjustment to one's position in response to terrain.
Here in this crowd though, I must be preaching to the choir, and to those who perhaps perhaps ride on frames built to the large side.
<<<So let's see your C&V bikes set up with zero-offset fitting!>>>
The build below typifies one of my fit re-doings, since this frame is large and the stem was increased from an 80 to a 115:
Last edited by dddd; 09-05-15 at 12:36 PM.
#8
To respond to the OP's question:
Syncros made a very nice zero-offset post in the 1990s, in both alloy and ti. Aesthetically hard to beat, and period correct - another option.
Can be had at reasonable prices, especially if you don't need a lot of length (they're popular with the vintage MTB crowd, so short/cut ones won't do for many potential buyers).
Syncros made a very nice zero-offset post in the 1990s, in both alloy and ti. Aesthetically hard to beat, and period correct - another option.
Can be had at reasonable prices, especially if you don't need a lot of length (they're popular with the vintage MTB crowd, so short/cut ones won't do for many potential buyers).
#9
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Joined: Dec 2007
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I've noticed that with a more-forward saddle, a more comfortable reach to the bars is achievable without having to shorten the stem extension (which would tend to overly quicken the steering feel of many a C&V frame). The forward saddle also rotates the rider's lower body forward, such that a more aero position is had with less bending at the waist. The rider is also rewarded with a quicker and less-strenuous transition to a standing position for attacking steep grades, which allows more-frequent adjustment to one's position in response to terrain.
#12
#15
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race

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From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
It's an argument I've put forward myself!
But I've ridden a good many bikes where the saddle being moved forward seemed to cure a challenged fit, which was so much easier than messing with stem length and which made the bike more spirited and more fun to ride.
On this bike, I went too far. I used the bike for a 68 mile ride where the last 25 miles was tilted downhill, which left my arms in agony for the last half-hour. It should be obvius from the photo that this very steep-angled bike was a very poor fit for me from the get-go, but that didn't stop me from trying, and I did take on the steep Iowa Hill climb without stopping during the mile 25 to mile 30 section of the ride. The frame angles are so steep that the stem is seen to point down, and I did also shorten the stem from 120 to 100mm to make it ridable.
#16
Senior Member


Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Twin Cities, Minnesota, USA
Bikes: 2017 Salsa Carbon Mukluk frame built with XT, 2018 Kona Rove NRB build with Sram Apex 1,2008 Salsa El Mariachi, 1986 Centurion Ironman








