Can this frame be saved?
#1
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From: Beaverton, OR
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Can this frame be saved?
I picked up a 1980 Schwinn Voyager 11.8 frame today -- nothing particularly special but it was cheap, it was my size and it had fancy head tube lugs so I decided to get it. I always forget the things I need to look for before buying a frame, and this one should have been pretty obvious. The fork is bent, but worse than that so are the top tube and down tube.
If you have a good eye for these things maybe you can spot it in this pic from the seller's ad:

I missed it and even from this picture I didn't see that the fork was bent:

I noticed it as I was putting the frame in my car but I paid so little for the frame that I didn't bother to go back. Here are a couple of pics that show the damage:



So my questions... Can anything be done to repair this short of replacing these tubes? If not, is it safe to ride this as a beater or would that be broken teeth waiting to happen?
If you have a good eye for these things maybe you can spot it in this pic from the seller's ad:

I missed it and even from this picture I didn't see that the fork was bent:

I noticed it as I was putting the frame in my car but I paid so little for the frame that I didn't bother to go back. Here are a couple of pics that show the damage:



So my questions... Can anything be done to repair this short of replacing these tubes? If not, is it safe to ride this as a beater or would that be broken teeth waiting to happen?
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#3
The appearance of the metal can be improved with rolling blocks.
Deformation so slight it looks like it may not require a stretch.
Fork can be put right with the aid of a fork alignment jig such as the Park tool:
Deformation so slight it looks like it may not require a stretch.
Fork can be put right with the aid of a fork alignment jig such as the Park tool:
#4
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Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
I've been riding a frame with worse damage without crashing and dying for a couple of years now. This post probably contributes to confirmation bias, though.
#5
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One of the odd things about this frame is that it is apparently "due tubi" 4130. That is, there's a sticker saying the "top and bottom" tubes are 4130, so I guess not even the seat tube.
I'm just finding myself getting really attached to it because it looks like it was Agent Coulson's bike:

How could you not love that?
I'm just finding myself getting really attached to it because it looks like it was Agent Coulson's bike:

How could you not love that?
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#6
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
If you saw it first and were asking if you should buy it, I'd have said pass. But that ship has sailed, and you're now the proud owner of this gem. So my answer is now, build it up and ride it to your hearts content.
Odds are the wheelbase is only slightly shorter, and it might still track true, so you can ignore the issue entirely. OTO - if it doesn't track, you can invest a bit more effort and deal with it.
Odds are the wheelbase is only slightly shorter, and it might still track true, so you can ignore the issue entirely. OTO - if it doesn't track, you can invest a bit more effort and deal with it.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
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I came across that this evening as I was obsessing about my options. I'm going to take my frame in to an LBS tomorrow for a hands-on assessment. I spent twice as much on pizza today as I did on this frame, so I figure I can spend a little bit on repair before I'm in the red.
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#9
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Bikes: 23" Schwinn High Plains, 20" Trek 830 Antelope
Unless it was a frame that i was *very* infatuated with, i'd see what it would cost to straighten (if possible) and go from there.
It's rarely a good thing to throw good money at a bad investment.
It's rarely a good thing to throw good money at a bad investment.
#10
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
No offense intended, but this is self-contradictory. If I really cared about a frame, I might look into the cost of a repair. But otherwise, I wouldn't toss dough at it, and either ride it as is, or scrap it.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#11
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
I have owned two frames which were bent back and subsequently pulled back into shape. Both eventually ruptured near the front of the downtube, but neither caused a catastrophic failure nor threatened my safety in any way.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#12
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From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Are you talking about the bike in this thread? https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...rame-gulp.html
I came across that this evening as I was obsessing about my options. I'm going to take my frame in to an LBS tomorrow for a hands-on assessment. I spent twice as much on pizza today as I did on this frame, so I figure I can spend a little bit on repair before I'm in the red.
I came across that this evening as I was obsessing about my options. I'm going to take my frame in to an LBS tomorrow for a hands-on assessment. I spent twice as much on pizza today as I did on this frame, so I figure I can spend a little bit on repair before I'm in the red.

If your shop has the Park Tool straightener thingy or something like it, I bet your frame could be made pretty close to original geo.
#13
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: USA
Bikes: 23" Schwinn High Plains, 20" Trek 830 Antelope
If I'm really taken with the frame then just about anything can be fixed - price be dammed!
By way of illustration, I had (have?) a bit of an obsession with older Minolta 35mm cameras (preferably non-battery except for light-metering). I'd see one of my favorite models and buy it. If it was worthy, i'd then send it off to my favorite Minolta tech and have him work his magic on it. If needed, i had back-ups to swap in nicer bits (which did happen on occasion). I have a couple darlings that need to be sent in (in particular an XE-7 in absolute MINT condition except for having the film advance drive train cleaned up), but that's another expense line Mrs. PolarBear is thankful i'm taking a break from!
#14
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From: Beaverton, OR
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The shop I took t to didn't have the Park tool but they did have a mechanic with a sharp eye who in about 10 seconds spotted problems with the fork that I hadn't noticed, like it wasn't in line with the steerer side-to-side either. It would certainly need more work than a fork that takes a 21.1 stem deserves. There may be a DIY alignment attempt in this frames' future.
I stopped by a local co-op and grabbed a fork that I think doesn't look terrible with the frame. I was wondering where I could get really cheap long reach brakes, then I remembered that I had some center pulls in a junk box in the garage.

This is definitely shaping up to be the kind of bike that no one will weep to see turned into a single speed.
I stopped by a local co-op and grabbed a fork that I think doesn't look terrible with the frame. I was wondering where I could get really cheap long reach brakes, then I remembered that I had some center pulls in a junk box in the garage.

This is definitely shaping up to be the kind of bike that no one will weep to see turned into a single speed.
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