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Originally Posted by tuckervill
(Post 6713605)
ISO steel frame road bike for a guy about 6' tall with 32" inseam
-Kurt |
1 Attachment(s)
A genuine beat-up and serviceable Schwinn tank for postwar twin lower cantilevered 26" frames (i.e. under dozens of names such as Phantom etc) Sure, I'll bet Western Flyer tanks fit but I just got a real nice nine-hole rack for the rear and the fat fenders I'm adding would like a paintable, fixable tank to go along for the horn and batteries. See the mockup for yourself and remember that I won't be able to finish until the 30th as I'm waiting for my check but I need to budget it (it's my birthday in June and I hope I can fill the propane and introduce carcincogens known to to cause lab mice in cancer by the state of Ahnold! into my beef for about four mos):love::roflmao2:
I'm still zooming around and gaining more stamina/losing some pain on my "daily driver" so have a look and thanks. Heeeeeere's 'Germaine'! |
Originally Posted by tuckervill
(Post 6713605)
ISO steel frame road bike for a guy about 6' tall with 32" inseam, in the $100 range. Doesn't have to be fancy or high-end for its time, but it should be clean and in ridable condition (I can put on new tires, but I don't want to grease bearings). Friction shifters, quill stems, etc., all okay (as long as nothing's stuck). I'm pairing it with a fine Raleigh Marathon mixte for my DIL--this bike will be for my son--so I'd like there to be something special about it (color, style, whatever).
I'll take a garage sale flip, and can pick up in a 150+/- radius of the NW corner of Arkansas (Tulsa, Springfield, MO, Little Rock, etc.). Will go a little farther for the right bike at the right price. I know THE bike is out there. PM me please! Karen |
$100 range. May want to stay local.
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ISO a steel lugged Japanese frame set. I have a complete Golden arrow grouppo that I want to go on it. 58-60cm. Not looking for anything too fancy or expensive but reliable and made of good tubing. Let me know what you have and we'll get to talking.
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iso: a set of 40/32 hole tubular rims. the older the better. dont have to match perfectly, just close.
its for a 1920's track bike, and im no shelling out for wood so its the next best thing. |
Any Suntour Accushift Plus 7 speed braze-on shifter. I just broke the Blaze one that i had on there.
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Looking for a replacement upper pulley for my Cyclone MK-II long cage rear derailer. Doesn't have to be the "correct" one, just one that's in very good condition and will fit. Anybody got a junked Suntour derailer they can pull one off of?
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Originally Posted by digitalbicycle
(Post 6729546)
Looking for a replacement upper pulley for my Cyclone MK-II long cage rear derailer. Doesn't have to be the "correct" one, just one that's in very good condition and will fit. Anybody got a junked Suntour derailer they can pull one off of?
Attachment 72002 -stan . |
Single Weinmann brake lever
FOUND -Kurt |
Originally Posted by gr23932
(Post 6723502)
ISO a steel lugged Japanese frame set. I have a complete Golden arrow grouppo that I want to go on it. 58-60cm. Not looking for anything too fancy or expensive but reliable and made of good tubing. Let me know what you have and we'll get to talking.
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ISO Vintage FREJUS leather saddle, 1960s or so, road racing model.
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I'd dearly love a set of Lauterwasser bars for my Raleigh Competition. The bike came to me with mostly replacement parts (including the wheels), so I'm building it up as a rider. I have moustache bars on there right now, but Lauterwasser bars would look so much better.
A long shot, I know, but I thought I'd try. |
ISO/WTB:
39-40 teeth outer ring to suit TA Pro-5-Vis cranks - Stronglight 49D or Sugino PX ring is fine too. I have a trade list under the "For Trade" thread if you'd rather swap for something |
ISO steel fork to go on a 1983 Miyata 710. Original was 1024 steel - doesn't need to be chromoly, but I don't want super low-end either. 160 mm +/- steerer. Must take 27" wheel. Fender eyelets would be a plus. Thanks.
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Wtb a steel Trek 400/520 or similar touring frame/fork. ~24in. I have a 2007 1500 I plan to strip and build up the old frame for more comfortable relaxed ride.
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I'm trying to figure out what the heck I actually need for brake hoods for my '86 Panasonic Team America with Dura Ace. I'm guessing Shimano BL-6300, 600 AX hoods look to be correct for what I have.
My current hood and brake: http://picasaweb.google.com/scarsgo/Brakeid Seems to look like these, no? http://www.velobase.com/ViewSingleCo...m=118&AbsPos=4 Can't say I'm that "up" on my vintage Dura Ace knowledge. Any leads appreciated. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by ZeRinger
(Post 6742712)
I'm trying to figure out what the heck I actually need for brake hoods for my '86 Panasonic Team America with Dura Ace. I'm guessing Shimano BL-6300, 600 AX hoods look to be correct for what I have.
My current hood and brake: http://picasaweb.google.com/scarsgo/Brakeid Seems to look like these, no? http://www.velobase.com/ViewSingleCo...m=118&AbsPos=4 Can't say I'm that "up" on my vintage Dura Ace knowledge. Any leads appreciated. Thanks! |
wtb: a short 22.2 quill stem with a 26.0 clamp.
I have a TTT 26.0 clamp, NOS, but 130mm, too long. |
WTB - Mafac Competition (3rd generation I think) bridge wire, the one with the ball ends. Doesn't have to be NOS as long as it is in good condition, and I only need one for the rear. PM please.
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Never mind, found them.
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Originally Posted by The_Schwill
(Post 6747672)
Never mind, found them.
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Originally Posted by Antipodes
(Post 6747832)
Where did you find them? I have a brake that's missing one.
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WTB: Fixed gear 650b wheelset? Hey, can't say I never asked :)
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Originally Posted by jbonamici
(Post 6736879)
ISO steel fork to go on a 1983 Miyata 710. Original was 1024 steel - doesn't need to be chromoly, but I don't want super low-end either. 160 mm +/- steerer. Must take 27" wheel. Fender eyelets would be a plus. Thanks.
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