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-   -   Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/361558-retro-roadies-old-frames-stis-ergos.html)

Chrome Molly 03-23-16 07:54 PM

Buwahahahaha...

txsurfer 03-23-16 10:29 PM

Finally, After months and months of looking from about page 40 to current, I can contribute with my first ever build!

1974 Romic Sport-Tourer Serial #24
Serial: 24a41974
Tubing: Reynolds 531
Groupset: Shimano 105 (5700)
BB: Shimano SM-BB9000
Seatpost: Origin8 26.8mm
Saddle: Specialized Toupe
Stem adapter: profile designs
Stem: Velo Orange
Bars: Easton EC90 CF
Cables: Jadwire Road Pro
Wheels: Fulcrum Quattro LG
Weight: 22lbs

Bought this frame/fork from [MENTION=252763]Flog00[/MENTION] and had Nao Tomii set the rear to 130mm and add some braze ons for me. He moved the brake bridge lower after a crack was found (or caused by my cold set attempt) and to avoid the need of a long reach brake. He also added cable stops where needed, downtube stops and BB cable routing.

The bike was built on a budget, hence some of the parts but I scored some decent deals along the way and met a bunch of cool people. This would not have happened without the advice/help from [MENTION=252763]Flog00[/MENTION] and Nao Tomii.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1528/...742b9c91_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1545/...292ab78c_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1673/...438439ce_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1717/...983407f7_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1468/...593e7e65_c.jpg

txsurfer 03-23-16 10:36 PM

couple more showing the decals I picked from velocals and the internal cable routing I had Nao add to the frame to really personalize it.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1546/...44072b31_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1571/...d971164b_c.jpg

growlerdinky 03-23-16 10:49 PM

New tape, saddle...

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/...2022.20.05.jpg

himespau 03-24-16 04:17 AM


Originally Posted by txsurfer (Post 18632253)
Finally, After months and months of looking from about page 40 to current, I can contribute with my first ever build!

1974 Romic Sport-Tourer Serial #24
Serial: 24a41974
Tubing: Reynolds 531
Groupset: Shimano 105 (5700)
BB: Shimano SM-BB9000
Seatpost: Origin8 26.8mm
Saddle: Specialized Toupe
Stem adapter: profile designs
Stem: Velo Orange
Bars: Easton EC90 CF
Cables: Jadwire Road Pro
Wheels: Fulcrum Quattro LG
Weight: 22lbs

Bought this frame/fork from @Flog00 and had Nao Tomii set the rear to 130mm and add some braze ons for me. He moved the brake bridge lower after a crack was found (or caused by my cold set attempt) and to avoid the need of a long reach brake. He also added cable stops where needed, downtube stops and BB cable routing.

The bike was built on a budget, hence some of the parts but I scored some decent deals along the way and met a bunch of cool people. This would not have happened without the advice/help from @Flog00 and Nao Tomii.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1528/...742b9c91_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1545/...292ab78c_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1673/...438439ce_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1717/...983407f7_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1468/...593e7e65_c.jpg

Wow. Beautiful. That's a lot of frame work you ended up having him do.

shoota 03-24-16 04:31 AM


Originally Posted by txsurfer (Post 18632260)
couple more showing the decals I picked from velocals and the internal cable routing I had Nao add to the frame to really personalize it.

Amazing work. Well thought out, useful, and elegant solutions. Kudos.

jeffhildeb 03-24-16 06:33 AM

Hi,
New to the forum. I don’t have any pictures to post yet, but I am modding my old Gitane Tour de France. The bike has been sitting in my brother’s barn for the last 30 years.

Here are my plans:
I’m keeping the MAFAC Competition center pull brakes, the Stronglight 93 crankset, and the original KB randonneur handlebars. Other than the frame, not much else worth saving.

I am upgrading to the following components:
Carbon fork with glossy 3k finish (Old fork got damaged sometime during storage)
FSA threadless headset and carbon wrapped stem
Mavic CXP22 wheelset
Microshift Arsis 10 speed drivetrain with the new style carbon shifters with both cables routed out the bottom
Shimano Aero-style seatpost
Phil Wood bottom bracket
Ritchey Logic Pro Pedals
Installing brazed on fittings: Brake cable, shifter cables, front derailleur mount, water bottle mounts, Columbine chain hanger (All fittings in stainless steel)

I’m looking for ideas to finish the frame. One thought is to wrap the chainstay/seatstay in carbon fiber to match the fork, and paint the frame a contrasting color. Could go with white (Can you say Oreo Bike?) I have seen a bike done in a black/white scheme like this, although not with carbon wrapped chainstays.

Interested in hearing any other suggestions. Pictures would help.

I know how to braze and have experience with automotive paints, although I am terrible at airbrushing, so no weird anime stuff.
Painting will probably take place sometime late May. The boss (A.K.A wife) says I have to redo the deck before our daughter’s high school graduation party, so the bike has to wait a few months.

The purists will wail about how I am ruining a classic bike. The best smack-down will have first chance to buy any of the remaining parts off the old bike.:)

Thanks in advance,
Jeff

icepick_trotsky 03-24-16 07:54 AM

Welcome to the forums, [MENTION=433217]jeffhildeb[/MENTION]. Sounds like a fun project.

I would be concerned about the crankset with a 10 speed drivetrain. The 10 speed chain may be too narrow too shift correctly on the vintage chainrings. And the Stronglight 93 has a weird BCD that will make finding new chainrings difficult. You might need to replace it. Is the bottom bracket french threaded? That could also be a headache with modern cranksets.

jeffhildeb 03-24-16 09:42 AM


Originally Posted by icepick_trotsky (Post 18632772)
Welcome to the forums, @jeffhildeb. Sounds like a fun project.

I would be concerned about the crankset with a 10 speed drivetrain. The 10 speed chain may be too narrow too shift correctly on the vintage chainrings. And the Stronglight 93 has a weird BCD that will make finding new chainrings difficult. You might need to replace it. Is the bottom bracket french threaded? That could also be a headache with modern cranksets.

Thanks for the feedback. I had a similar concern about the crankset. After reading up on it, ( a lot of comments on the subject on bikeforums and other sites) it shoudn't be a problem as long as I am not shifting while standing up! Finding chainrings doesn't seem to be too much of an issue - there are several on ebay. The bottom bracket is french threaded. My Phil Wood bottom bracket has the french thread retaining rings, and it is an ISO square taper.

greg3rd48 03-24-16 01:24 PM

[MENTION=433217]jeffhildeb[/MENTION] I am looking forward to seeing this. You should start a separate thread to illustrate your progress.

jeffhildeb 03-24-16 01:36 PM


Originally Posted by greg3rd48 (Post 18633727)
@jeffhildeb I am looking forward to seeing this. You should start a separate thread to illustrate your progress.

Great idea. I'll start another thread.

Flog00 03-24-16 02:09 PM

[MENTION=424666]txsurfer[/MENTION]

I want to ride it!

Sidney Porter 03-26-16 11:28 AM

Finished this for my 12 year old. It is 48.5cm I think it is an '88. 2x7. I went with the tourney paid 61 including cables. I was going to go with the microshift but the reach was not adjustable. The levers are too high for my taste but that is where he was most comfortable. He picked the splash not me.
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...pslmdvuaqm.jpg

Steve Whitlatch 03-26-16 07:51 PM

1969 Witcomb

http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/a...psgenq204r.jpg

oph117bkk 03-28-16 03:48 AM

Hi,
Im new to the forum. I hope I found this amazing thread before.
Here is my first retro-modern built up finished last year.

current
Eddy Merckx 1986-87 Strada
Shimano 5800 group
Cinelli bar and stem
Columbus seatpost
Selle Italia Slr saddle
Reynolds full carbon fork
RolfPrima Vigor + 23mm Bridgestone

future
Sram force22 or Ultegra 6800 or Chorus
Sytrance cockpit

It's ride great IMO, the weight is not as light as most hi end carbon but I think I'm fine with 8.6kg right now.
I hope that I can save some more grams when new groups and cockpits are replaced.

The bike ride and feel good to me. But sometime in the high speed, hard paddling, i can feel some unstable somehow.
The tail spacer is 126-128mm. and I just put the 130mm. hub in it.
Could it possibly that is why the bike is feel a bit unstable in high speed? Do I need to do the cold setting?
Or what could be the first priority to check in term of unstable issue?

sorry for my english is not so good
Thanks in advanced,

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psxlcl2aar.jpg

himespau 03-28-16 04:32 AM

Wow, that just looks fast. Also looks like there's no way it could support my weight.

himespau 03-28-16 04:34 AM


Originally Posted by Steve Whitlatch (Post 18638998)

That does look cool. You said in your other thread you were still trying to get the fit dialed in. I wonder, when you do get it dialed in, what it would look like with red housing or if that'd be too over the top.

growlerdinky 03-28-16 07:08 AM


Originally Posted by oph117bkk (Post 18641528)
Hi,
Im new to the forum. I hope I found this amazing thread before.
Here is my first retro-modern built up finished last year.

current
Eddy Merckx 1986-87 Strada
Shimano 5800 group
Cinelli bar and stem
Columbus seatpost
Selle Italia Slr saddle
Reynolds full carbon fork
RolfPrima Vigor + 23mm Bridgestone

future
Sram force22 or Ultegra 6800 or Chorus
Sytrance cockpit

It's ride great IMO, the weight is not as light as most hi end carbon but I think I'm fine with 8.6kg right now.
I hope that I can save some more grams when new groups and cockpits are replaced.

The bike ride and feel good to me. But sometime in the high speed, hard paddling, i can feel some unstable somehow.
The tail spacer is 126-128mm. and I just put the 130mm. hub in it.
Could it possibly that is why the bike is feel a bit unstable in high speed? Do I need to do the cold setting?
Or what could be the first priority to check in term of unstable issue?

sorry for my english is not so good
Thanks in advanced,

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psxlcl2aar.jpg


That is gorgeous.

livelikegold 03-29-16 05:03 PM


Originally Posted by oph117bkk (Post 18641528)
Hi,
Im new to the forum. I hope I found this amazing thread before.
Here is my first retro-modern built up finished last year.

current
Eddy Merckx 1986-87 Strada
Shimano 5800 group
Cinelli bar and stem
Columbus seatpost
Selle Italia Slr saddle
Reynolds full carbon fork
RolfPrima Vigor + 23mm Bridgestone

future
Sram force22 or Ultegra 6800 or Chorus
Sytrance cockpit

It's ride great IMO, the weight is not as light as most hi end carbon but I think I'm fine with 8.6kg right now.
I hope that I can save some more grams when new groups and cockpits are replaced.

The bike ride and feel good to me. But sometime in the high speed, hard paddling, i can feel some unstable somehow.
The tail spacer is 126-128mm. and I just put the 130mm. hub in it.
Could it possibly that is why the bike is feel a bit unstable in high speed? Do I need to do the cold setting?
Or what could be the first priority to check in term of unstable issue?

sorry for my english is not so good
Thanks in advanced,

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psxlcl2aar.jpg

As someone with a very similar build to yours I can help out a bit. I am riding mine the same way, the rear spacing is 126mm and I just spread the stays and drop in my 130mm wheel set, Ive pondered cold setting for a while now but I have yet to do it. But I have noticed that when i ride my Merckx I do feel unstable especially when climbing, I learned to use only Shimano skewers as I have found those to be the toughest. I always check my rear skewer before I go for a ride no matter the situation, i've had the rear wheel shift in the horizontal dropout and its very annoying. Cold setting will fix it, but with the Shimano skewers I feel more comfortable, I definitely always think about it climbing due to the heavy force on the rear wheel but I have learned to trust the skewer, I do plan on taking my wheel into the shop soon and have them install serrated washers on my rear wheel because the chrome on the dropouts doesn't help at all. Beautiful build BTW, mine has the exact paint fade except mine is in blue. I would kill for the pink!! hopefully I helped a little.

ericmerg1 03-29-16 06:43 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here is a before and after, I'm sure as time goes on this will change, like stem/bars combo, also maybe a carbon fork.

Steve Whitlatch 03-29-16 09:17 PM


Originally Posted by himespau (Post 18641563)
That does look cool. You said in your other thread you were still trying to get the fit dialed in. I wonder, when you do get it dialed in, what it would look like with red housing or if that'd be too over the top.

Thanks. I think red would work too. I may try that down the road.

RobbieTunes 04-04-16 01:40 PM

Such a great thread, can't believe it was on page 4. This should bump it.

1988 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman Master. Originally 2x7 tricolor with a Tange BB and Nitto steering.

The low-end Campy Avanti is 2/3 x8 and cheap, but properly lubed and adjusted, works fine.
Frame by way of oddjob2, crankset in a trade with Chrome Molly. Other parts here and there.
Avanti Ergos, FD, RD, calipers. Miche Primato seat post, Cinelli stem shimmed to Nitto B115-420 bars.
Prologo saddle, running 48/34 rings and a 12-26 rear. Rigida rims on Miche hubs, Vittoria tires.
I like it. It's a bit heavy, 21 lbs, but it's smooth, and I can get pretty versatile with the long cage Rd and triple FD.
Using that FD and the L Ergo, all kinds of trim.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...4&d=1459797775

upthywazzoo 04-04-16 03:06 PM


Originally Posted by RobbieTunes (Post 18663282)
Such a great thread, can't believe it was on page 4. This should bump it.

1988 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman Master. Originally 2x7 tricolor with a Tange BB and Nitto steering.

The low-end Campy Avanti is 2/3 x8 and cheap, but properly lubed and adjusted, works fine.
Frame by way of oddjob2, crankset in a trade with Chrome Molly. Other parts here and there.
Avanti Ergos, FD, RD, calipers. Miche Primato seat post, Cinelli stem shimmed to Nitto B115-420 bars.
Prologo saddle, running 48/34 rings and a 12-26 rear. Rigida rims on Miche hubs, Vittoria tires.
I like it. It's a bit heavy, 21 lbs, but it's smooth, and I can get pretty versatile with the long cage Rd and triple FD.
Using that FD and the L Ergo, all kinds of trim.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...4&d=1459797775

I like the yellow on purple, and those rims. My Paramount came in at 21.something pounds.... This seems pretty darn light.

Chrome Molly 04-04-16 05:39 PM


Originally Posted by RobbieTunes (Post 18663282)
Such a great thread, can't believe it was on page 4. This should bump it.

1988 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman Master. Originally 2x7 tricolor with a Tange BB and Nitto steering.

The low-end Campy Avanti is 2/3 x8 and cheap, but properly lubed and adjusted, works fine.
Frame by way of oddjob2, crankset in a trade with Chrome Molly. Other parts here and there.
Avanti Ergos, FD, RD, calipers. Miche Primato seat post, Cinelli stem shimmed to Nitto B115-420 bars.
Prologo saddle, running 48/34 rings and a 12-26 rear. Rigida rims on Miche hubs, Vittoria tires.
I like it. It's a bit heavy, 21 lbs, but it's smooth, and I can get pretty versatile with the long cage Rd and triple FD.
Using that FD and the L Ergo, all kinds of trim.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...4&d=1459797775

Ding!

A nice home for the crankset.

TimmyT 04-05-16 05:29 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Another Simoncini:

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...3&d=1459855675

Ha. The reflectors make it look super loser.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=513823


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