Here is an image of a Veloce equipped Faggin SL/SP build. It only lacks a chain and handlebar wrap. There is a reason for that.


I could go to the LBS, acquire black Cinelli bar tape, install the chain, and go for a ride. Or...


This frame is a curiosity. Not only are the rear brake cable lugs on the bottom side of the top-tube, the front and rear dropouts have fender mounting lugs. The Veloce brakes need to have the pads all the way down in order to find the correct contact with the 700C rim (I mean slammed). This means, to me, that the frame may have been intended to be used with fenders.


In that case, I would look for a honey-colored bar tape to match a honey Brooks B-17, use a 13-29 cassette (instead of a 13-26) and order some Tanaka Fenders. I also need to finish the build of Open pro CD finish rims on 36 hole Polished Campagnolo hubs (I selected the wrong length spokes, hence the purchase of the Sciroccos).


Don't phone, I will be lost in thought. Any comments or ideas will be welcomed.

Beauty!

Why the really long straddle cable?

That's looking really sharp.

If you want silver wheels, it's hard to beet these from VeloMine: Velocity A23 Silver Formula Hubs For Campagnolo

I've got a set of these on my Pinarello Gran Turismo and have been very happy with them.

Thanks!

[rant]The long front straddle cable is a consequence of setting up the cantis with the apparently mistaken folk wisdom that the straddle cable angle should be at a 90-deg angle to the canti/pivot angle. This requires a very long straddle cable with vintage wide cantis like these. In this scheme, the rear straddle cable should also be equally long, but it usually can't be because the yoke would hit the cable stop bz-on.

I re-read Sheldon Brown's canti page, and a couple of others, before replying. I learned, as usual, that the stuff they taught me 30yrs ago was mostly wrong (an ounce of weight on the wheels is worth two ounces on the frame, wide tires are slow, stiff frames are faster and more efficient than flexy ones, straddle cables should be at a 90-deg angle to the canti pivot angle, and prolly a lot more stuff). The 90-deg straddle cable angle rule doesn't really fit anything, and you should be setting the straddle cable length wherever needed for the mechanical advantage desired. Which depends on the calipers, the levers, the shoes, shoe position and atmospheric pressure. Just kidding about the atmospheric pressure...

It also reminded me that I'm not an engineer, and I'm still a math-phobe, and once they trot out pivot angles and mechanical advantage and sine and cosine and tangents, my brain short-circuits and my eyes glaze over.

It also reminded me that, while I love how much tire clearance I get from cantis, I f'in hate setting them up, and absolutely love sidepull & dual-pivot calipers to death.[/rant]

I always thought that the folk wisdom (which never made sense to me) was that it was the straddle cable itself that should be at 90 degrees? Which in your case would mean lowering the straddle hanger quite a bit.

Anyway, I don't know about degrees but I do agree that setting up cantis involves a lot more variables than other brakes and can be quite frustrating! I do it all the time and practice does help but some designs are particularly frustrating.

Lastly, that bike is beyond beautiful. I love all the component choices you made and would change nothing except the seatpost (Paul or Suntour XC :))

I think I was looking at 90-deg to the arm, i/o 90-deg to the canti pivot line (line intersecting pivot and cable anchor point). So I was wrong on both counts. I'll have to swap to a longer brake cable and mess with it all over again, once I feel like it. Sheesh.

I'm glad you like the bike/setup. I'm very boring/OCD when it comes to seatposts, with 90%+ of my bikes using Thomson Elite posts (a couple of Masterpieces on weight weenie builds). There was something about me mucking up a staid, understated '70s British touring frame with carbon brifters and a wide/narrow 1x chainring that made me want to use the Miche Supertype post here.

I've never used a Paul post, though they look swell. They don't come very short, though, so there'd be an awful lot of Paul post shoved into the seat tube. I used a 330mm Thomson Elite while waiting on the Miche Supertype, same deal there.

Despite being an ex-Suntour guy, and generally liking Spb stuff, I've always had issues with not being able to get a good saddle angle with the Spb Pro seatpost. Usually my saddle nose is at least couple of degrees too high even with the front bolt tightened down to the max. Especially with relaxed 72/73-deg seat tube angles. Once I get to 74- or 75-deg seat tubes it kinda works. I could probably file off some metal underneath the bottom cradle.

The Quinn also needs a 27.0mm seatpost, so that does limit choice a bit as well.

Here are the same brakes (which are great; good taste :)) I installed on a 62cm Trek. And I agree with whatwolf; cantis work great, but they are of no advantage in setup that's for sure. Did i miss what tires you're running? 38-622? That thing has some clearance, Clarence. Nice.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8291/7...87f38d58_b.jpgUntitled by ColonelJLloyd, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8146/7...a6170cb8_b.jpgUntitled by ColonelJLloyd, on Flickr

Nice machine! Yeah, I gotta drop that yoke. Just found the Paul Moon Unit I wanted for it, so probably a good time to mess around with it.

35s on it now, which is what I had at hand when building it up.

How'd you know the "C" was for Clarence?

-PCB

That is just a lovely brake design.

Nice application, too. :thumb:

That will be fantastic once finished!

Ditto.

Man, you build a gorgeous bike.

Finished everything today. This is my first bike with STI's and I'm in love already.

In the future I'll probably buy a 1" threadless carbon fork to match all the black. The current fork isn't the original Miele fork, and it's quite heavy and shows signs of pitting. A new stem is also in the future, awaiting proper fit.

http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_0729.jpg

Components:

Fork: Chrome, 1” Threadless
Brakes: Tektro R340 Caliper brakes
Headset: Cane Creek S40 1”
Stem: Giant 90mm -15*, 31.8
Drivetrain:
Cassette: Shimano Ultegra 6700 11-25
Crankset: Kuota KO3 Carbon 53/39 (Similar to SRAM Force)
Bottom Bracket: SRAM GXP italian threaded
Front Derailleur: Shimano 105 (5700)
Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105 (5700)
Brifters: Shimano 105 5700 STI 10-Speed
Chain: Shimano HG73
Seatpost: Raceface Atlas, 27.2
Saddle: Forte SLX Pro
Pedals: Shimano SPD-M540
Bars: 31.8, 42mm wide, no brand
Bar Tape: Deda Mistral, Black
Wheels: Alex Race28 with Scott Components hubs
Tires: Bontrager RaceLite 700x23

Any suggestions for a good deal on 1" carbon forks (threadless) would be much appreciated. I know Nashbar has one for $105.

^Very nice job with the Miele. Setup nice and just looks fast. I like it :thumb:

Did you get a chance to weight it? Having just done a Reynolds 531 frame in similar style, I'll guess it's right around 20lbs.

Gorgeous!

Thank you! I haven't weighed it yet but it feels like it's in the 20 lb range, maybe a little bit more. The wheelset isn't anything particularly lightweight. It rides very nicely though.

Two of a kind.

http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/...psx4yi0vfs.jpg

http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/...psjwo92wuh.jpg

http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/...psbeapmdxe.jpg

[MENTION=136007]liquefied[/MENTION] Gorgeous! Now which one do you prefer?

Those look incredible. The black components really set off the blue. Nice work!

Weighed it today at my LBS. 21.96 lbs.

Hard to say. I've only put a few hundred miles on the SRAM bike whereas I've done many thousand on the Shimano. The new bike has much nicer wheels and tires which I do appreciate.

That CK headset looks so nice.

Good weight for building strength on group rides. Light enough to keep up on the flats but a tester on the hills and accelerations. Enjoy!

Well said.

Very nice 1400s, an improvement over the original.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_whtVpXkKwl...600/img191.jpg

I kept the original parts around too just in case I feel like going back. I have 100% of the original parts for one (including original tires) and about 90% of parts for the other.

[MENTION=136007]liquefied[/MENTION] Very, very nice! What kind of Koga Miyata is it?

[update] Oops, hadn't refreshed the page in hours... 1400 it seems...