Thanks! Yeah, i really like them. Simple and sleek.

I posted this when it was 9sp DA and Purple Haze.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...68a12a391b.jpg

It really needed a new life, new durability, new group, new wheels. Pretty much a new identity.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0980ffb9c6.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d818f4a8cc.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3b0080b12c.jpg

And it got one.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1cba776d15.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...30761e7b64.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5238a77bb0.jpg

WHAT is that paint??? It looks awesome! I knew those centurion frames had it in them without those godawful 80's color schemes. Really though, what is that paint called? Makes me want to repaint something of mine...

Which is why this one is the Not Your Daddy's Ironman.
Yes, powder coat, and I can get the code easily. Tri State Powdercoating in Evansville, Indiana, did it in 1 week.
I think it's called Slate Grey Metallic, but I'm not sure.

That, my friend, is powder coat.
No longer an '80's "godawful" color scheme, though I have quite a soft spot in my heart for that Purple Haze it originally had.

The trick is to:

a-have a bare metal frame. The ones that are chromed seem to have an issue with getting a clean coverage.

b-choose a powder color/type that coats clean and thin.
Some are quite thick, which is my experience with reds.

c-choose a powder coater who nods when you say "bike frame."

My latest one: a 1996 Serotta Atlanta I finished with a 10 speed Sram Force/Rival groupset.https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e91a943f78.jpg

Hey Everyone,

I finally got around to finalizing my build and snapping a few fast pics. This was the bike pictured in post #6855 , built up with a mix of Centaur and Veloce 10sp stuff. Most of it was deeply discounted or bought used, so I really didn't break the bank, and I'm happy with the result. This is my first time using Ergo style shifters, and I have to say that it's pretty convenient in urban riding situations.

Apologies for the lousy picture quality, and bigger apologies for the bar tape color. Almost everything out there seemed too light a shade of green, but this one was slightly too dark. If anyone has knowledge of something that might match better, please let me know. And no, I don't want to use black tape. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1a63530947.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...eaf551e5f6.jpg

Beautiful build! Aside from the tape there's only one thing I'd recommend changing (edit: maybe two, a -17° stem) but I'll let you figure that out by searching my post history.

For the tape, Fizik Apple Green seems close (impossible to say without having both the fork and tape in the same lighting though):
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cfaba7e6b2.jpg

Fizik Superlight Tacky Bar Tape with Logo, 2mm, Green Color:Apple Green Size:3-mm

Thanks for the feedback. That Apple Green Fizik was actually the runner-up to my eventual choice of a Deda British Racing Green. I was paranoid about the tape having too light a shade of green (as was on the bike when I got it), so I erred on the darker side. Maybe I stop by a few shops to see if anyone has that Fizik in stock so I can compare in person.

With regard to the stem area, it's still a work in progress. I'm really not used to riding with my hands planted on the hoods, so I shortened the stem (first pic is 70mm, second pic is 100mm I had on initially), but it hasn't made me much more comfortable. So what are the threadless conversion ideas you might have to offer? I'm open to suggestions.

Soma Thick & Zesty tape comes in a few different greens, one of which might work. Their tape came to my rescue trying to find the perfect match for a teal highlight on an Orbea frame a few years ago: https://www.somafab.com/archives/pro...-zesty-bartape

Riding on the hoods will take getting used to, but don't forget about the tops and drops as additional hand positions. You have fairly short reach bars it seems so expect to need a longer stem than you've been accustomed to. Sometimes lower (or higher) bars make all the difference, too. For my take on the threadless conversion, see here (apologies for yet another shameless plug): https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...n-headset.html

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8db1b279d1.jpg
All you need is the hat and you'll be ready for the wildcard game...

Really nice.

Here's two of mine.
1988 Centurion Ironman with Campy Veloce 10 spd
1990 Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra with Campy Centaur 11 spdhttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a95ecc2a5b.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c464af1e80.jpg

'88 Allez w/ 5800 Group
 

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b2f96c988d.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...10c0c9f9e7.jpg
Here's my 88 Allez I had powder coated and built with 5800 105's. This was my first time building a bike. The '88 Allez frame isn't particularly special other than it was my first roadie. I love how it turned out though.

Looks very nice, especially for your first build---sweet!

And don't sell your Allez short as not particularly special. It was a production bike, but it was a production bike designed by Mark DiNucci, who sweats details the way I sweat, well....sweat. He was absolutely focused on spec'ing and delivering that Allez as the best possible performance-targeted road bike at that price point, from that factory. Mark is very modest about the handbuilt frames he built back in the day, and now builds again. He's somewhat less modest about the bikes he designed for Specialized. It ain't easy delivering an awesome production bike, with the right design, spec, graphics and price to sell through thousands of units, or tens of thousands, profitably for your employer. A lot more headaches there than designing and building a one-off custom frame, or even a few dozen one-off custom frames/year.

This '01 Waterford RS11 is still a teenager---here in NJ it would just be getting its driver's license. I think I posted some earlier 2x brifter-equipped pix further back in this thread, but it has recently joined the ranks of my 1x-converted bikes, so time for some new pix. Front derailleurs are getting sparse on bikes around here, while my spare parts boxes are overflowing. Went with Rival 11spd, 39x11-36, with Dura-Ace BR-7700 calipers.

Dave Wages built this, not long after leaving Serotta for Waterford. I emailed him about it when I first got it, wanting to confirm that the "DW" initials stamped in the bb shell meant he built it, which he confirmed. When I mentioned I was happy it fit chubby-ish tires, he said: "Yeah, we really bumped those chainstays back then." Tire clearance is kind of a mixed bag, though. You could fit 42mm+ tires at the chainstays, but 32s barely fit under the rear brake bridge, and I don't think a 35 would fit under the fork crown. I had to take a file to the bottom of the rear 7700 caliper to convince it to clear the bottom of the bridge. I'm cramming Compass Stampede Pass/32mm tires in, and with that cushy rubber, the bike sings. Not wanting to mess with Dave's work prevents me from filing the bottom of the bridge, but if this puppy ever needs to go in to some work done, that bridge is gonna move up high enough to fit a 49-59mm caliper, with the shoes at the bottom of the slot.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1958/...1bdc0661_h.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1903/...7464d921_h.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1937/...30133d15_h.jpg

The black/white elements, with obligatory silver, make for an eternally classy and great looking bike, IMO. Lovely Medici! Glad you have a bike whose frame "shines through" any components. Those are always keepers in my book. And you can't go wrong with 9/10-speed Shimano!

+1
I especially like the bars and the position of the STI's.