Well I'd go with bar-end shifters personally, they're cheap enough, bulletproof, and look nicer than stem shifters. I would say to get brifters, but they won't work with V-brakes.

Here's my new to me commuter

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/2985/img2679mu9.jpg
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/i...jpg/1/w800.png

I added the rack, lights and fenders. I haven't ridden with the front fender yet, I don't know if I'm going to like how close the supports are to the pedals yet.

looking at where you have the shifters and the brakes, where do you ride with your hands? can you even reach the brakes?

http://i38.tinypic.com/11r7vae.jpg
http://i35.tinypic.com/2s9qi4p.jpg
http://i36.tinypic.com/fwnc51.jpg
http://i35.tinypic.com/a0ibcw.jpg

Yes I can reach the brakes. I can't ride on the top of the bar comfortably, so I usually ride in the drops, "on the hoods" (if I had hoods), or on the bottoms of the bars. It really isn't as bad as everyone seems to think:twitchy:...I have been thinking of bar ends, but I don't have the money at the moment...so I'll deal.

That double alivio, no hooded drop bar set-up is awesome, (although probably uncomfortable and maybe dangerous) it reminds me of campus bikes, ones that are pimped out with garbage stuff in ways that parts weren't designed for.
Like chopped and flopped bullhorns with a twist shifter 5 speed on the end, and 1 brake lever that's pointed backwards!

EDIT: At least trim your damn zip-ties! :)

Dude the more I look at that bike, it's like a homeless man who hasn't had a haircut forever, except he's in a nice suit. Spotless seemingly good frame, cheap but clean parts all around, and then the cockpit is over the top grunge! Brake cable end needs snippage, bar wrap... not respectable, brake cables sticking towards the sky, computer wire all over the place, overall awesome!

I'd say that if you like the hoods (if they existed) get some bullhorns and buy those bar-end shifters like on the Trek 520. They're good and not too expensive. For brake levers you'll have to go with the ring/hex key ones, not the expanding, inside the handlebar ones.

Merry X-Mas to me.

Saw this on CL and had to have it. Love at first site. :love: :roflmao2:

Its a 1995 T700 Mako Blue metallic Cannondale Touring. Build date of Dec 1994.

Has some weirdness to it but I believe it is all factory. The rims don't match what is spec for 94 or 95 in the catalogs on www.vintagecannondale.com. The hubs and tires are. Yes thats the tires it had from the factory. Have some dry rot so they will be replaced soon. Probably Schwalbe's

The Other weird thing is the crank set is not spec for any T700. Its the cranks that were spec for the 1994 T1000. I'm happy with the upgrade as it has a larger big chain ring. :thumb:

Still need fenders. Thinking the Aluminum SKS P45's.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...5&d=1228367320

That Bianchi looks sweet! Can you provide us with a component list?

Lucky! :D How much?

I really think the mid-1980s were a golden age for bicycles. :love:

Cool bike. But aren't you concerned about chain drop?

Well as ghetto or homeless man-ish as it may seem, it is perfectly functional, and more importantly I like it. I know it isn't exactly the nicest setup in the world, but I wanted drop bars on my commuter really badly and I just had to make it work. The bar tape isn't really my fault...the guy at the local bike shop wrapped the bars with cotton tape and told me it would suffice for now, unfortunately it keeps peeling...as you can see from the picture :rolleyes:. I have actually been looking into the Tektro R200brake levers. Anyone have a spare set?

Since the pic the zip ties have been trimmed :thumb:

^^^Dude, they are $16.00. Well worth it to be able to ride on the hoods for another hand position.

$225. Its in pretty good shape, Frame is near perfect with two scratches. Back wheel will need to be replaced eventually. Its taken a good hit and has a hop. Its liveable for a while. got the wobble out but it pulses the brake.

Sold one of my bikes last night so had the cash for some bike swag. Threw a set of SKS fenders on it. I like them. Looks a lot cleaner and more refined.

I have been under the weather this week so driving trying to keep from getting worse. Had it for almost 2 weeks and only put 10 miles on it. :( Still haven''t found the sweet spot on the seat adjustment. Hope I am better tomorrow and I'll go take it to SCT this weekend and put 30-40 miles on it and get it dialed in. Also just saw a sweet Brooks on CL. May have to go look at that this weekend as well if it hasn't sold.

Hmmm...good point, and one I've not considered, as I only just now (thanks, Google) learned what "chain drop" is. I'll look into some ways to counter it, short of, I hope, reinstalling the front derailleur.

Thanks for the heads-up.

Sure!
I'm not sure of the year....but it's a Bianchi San Remo. Had Shimano 600 stuff with the cool engraving when I got it. I bought it on eBay for $54.00 + shipping. The frame is an Ishiwata. The back wheel was trashed when I got it (mentioned in the auction), but the bike looked like it had maybe 100 miles on it. Unfortunately, the company the dude hired to pack it hadn't done bikes before or just didn't care. There are 2 big scratches on the top tube (one goes into the decal) from the rear wheel axle. They shipped with both wheels removed.

Anyway....
Alex/Shimano 2200 wheelset from a new Fuji cross bike that we stripped, complete with the cross tires and Ultegra 10 speed cassette
Original cranks - Sugino, I think - with 52-48-30 rings
Original front derailleur (600) - Have a Dura Ace to put on it at some point.
Shimano Deore rear derailleur - ditto - have a Dura Ace long cage waiting for it.
Dura Ace 10 speed bar end shifters
Tektro brake levers
Original brakes. Can't remember what they are. Luckily, they work with the 700c wheels!
Ritchey ergo handlebar (46cm)
Salsa stem - 60mm (the bike is technically too big for me. A size wasn't listed in the auction. I ride a 53/54; it's a 56)
Brooks B-17 "Aged" saddle
RavX leather bar wrap
Mavic computer (the one with the QR sensor)
Has Crank Brothers Candys on it now - did have BMX platform pedals
Headset is original. I have a NOS Campy Record I'm going to install at some point.
Copy of the original seatpost. Original one was about 120mm long. lol This one is 350mm
Original rear rack
Sigma Mirage Evo headlight
Cheapo rack bag
SRAM 10 speed chain of some description. (I would rather sever my own testicles than use a Shimano chain)

I think that's about it....

(and yes....the mix of old, new, and MTB components DOES work with the 10 speed chain and cassette, in case anyone was thinking of trying such an odd combination themselves)

In Singapore where bike theft and vandalism is rampant, it's best to use a commuter that looks like it's already stolen and vandalised before.

My old commuter, which has since been scrapped:
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...osmosrusty.jpg

Currently starting to rediscover the foldable bicycle of my childhood (photo taken circa 2004, but bike is currently about 13 years old):
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...cus/aleoca.jpg

Ready for whatever winter might toss at me be it snow, slush, or in todays case... freezing rain.

(There are a few hundred studs in those tyres.)

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/winter08-4.jpg

Interesting nom de plume................

^ looks like hell, but that'd be the idea...

2001 Trek 520
 

Here's my "new" 2001 Trek 520 that I just finished. There is nothing original on it other than the frame and fork.

Specs:

Mavic Open Pro wheels
12/25 Ultegra cassette
Shimano 105 shifters and FD
Deore RD
Nitto Noodle bars
Brooks B17
V-Brake w/travel agent for front brake and Canti for rear (had vbrake for both, but rack wouldn't fit)
Shimano Deore LX Trekking crankset. 26/36/46 with chainguard (love that feature).
Shimano campus pedals (love having clips on one side and platform on the other)
Vittoria Rand. Cross 700x28 tires.
Planet Bike Cascadia fenders. Requirement for PNW.

Only ridden it once so far but it rides great.

http://www.tranquilitysystems.com/ga...Trek520001.JPG

Forget the criticism
 

Metalchef, I personally dig the ingenuity, and I am a former bike shop manager. Quick tip...your brake cables and housings are too short at the brake levers. You can either get longer housing and cables, or insert v-brake noodles at the levers. The noodles will help clean up the brake routing, and if you are careful disconnecting the brake cables, they may be able to be re-used. Also, if you re-wrap your bars, use one continous piece of tape per side, don't cut it at the brake lever. Wrap a figure 8 around the lever. This should help keep the tape from coming unwrapped.

I'm surprised that vandalism and theft is so rampant in Singapore. Seeing how stiff penalties can be for other offenses there, are the penalties not as stiff for vandalism/theft?

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...X/_C077153.jpg
Easton EC90 Seat Post,
Shimano Sora Drivetrain/Shifters,
3T Forgie stem,
Rear Wheel: Pink Chris King Classic hub, Wheelsmith Double Butted spokes, IRD Cadence VSR rim

Later this week I will have a Ultegra/Dura-Ace Drivetrain/Shifters.

They outlaw bubblegum but they can't stop bike theft?

My dream of fascist utopia is over :(

looks awesome! more pics!

Cool and thank you. So if I get longer brake cables won't it make them cables stick out farther? Thanks for the tip on the bar wrap, I will definitely try that. I'll try it on my old schwinn too.

I'll take some when I get the new bling on ;)

Metalchef87...

In this picture...

http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/q...7/marin002.jpg

You can see that the brake housings are angled pretty sharply from the brake lever. Longer housing, or the noodle would improve the performance of the brakes. Take a look at some old school road bikes (pre-aerobrakes) and you will see that the housings have a nice arching path up from the brake levers and then down to the brakes. This allows the handlebars to turn without kinking the cables and also prevents sharp angles in the cable/housing (bad).

"So if I get longer brake cables won't it make them cables stick out farther?"

By installing longer housing, or adding the brake noodle, it will effectively shorten the brake cable. On the above picture you have extra brake cable, hence my original comment that if you are careful you can re-use the inner cable, so it will actually stick out less. I hope this makes some sort of sence. Good luck.