The fact that you need glasses is nothing to be ashamed of....;)

Conan - a better (I wanne see it all) pic perhaps?

hasn't happened yet. I considered trimming them down before but I find I like the ability to move my hands back in the drops, its relieving on my shoulders to have that small range of motion.

hot!!!!!

Whoooosh has some sweet bikes.

Spend fifteen minutes and take a decent pic of your repainted Venge with the 65s. We don't want to see the photo of it hanging on the wall. Top five.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...lder/016-1.jpg
The front ENVE, is no more....:(

Has great potential. I think a better picture would put it in Hot territory. I'm not feeling the bottle cages and white spokes.

thats ****ing sexy

did you get your chain and cassette anodized?

KMC x10sl chain has a ti coating and is available in gold. Cassette is a Recon gold ano.

i like

Colnago Super circa 1980
 

We bought this bike used 1985 in Southern France, and since moving to Sweden in 1987 it has been hanging in my parents garage and gets ridden a couple of times a year when we come to visit. The derailleurs are Campy Super Records, from the late 70s. I will probably upgrade the wheels next time I visit... Despite being low tech and relatively heavy, it's still a sweet ride.
http://www.pbase.com/image/144744587/original.jpg

The red pedals and yellow tape is not working for me. I think they should both be white ;)

Still, very cool bike. You get extra points for having he look pedals and garmin on a vintage ride. I love riding vintage bikes with modern touch points ( pedals, saddle, tape)

Here is my bike for tape/pedal evidence:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...4-03183621.jpg

So cool it is so, so hot.

I would not change a thing. Anything new must match the old. I would even take out the speed cadence sensor and magnet.

Once again, it is so cool it is so hot.

Thanks for sharing.

Mark

I use rely on the garmins gps for speed and distance when I ride my older bike but if this is his main ride I vote leave the sensor.

That Colnago is hot. Great bike.

Relax your cables. Otherwise beautiful.

That's period correct.

Not quite. The "proper" routing would have the cables going behind the bars, not in front of the bars.

http://www.bikerconnection.de/joomla...ddy_Merckx.jpg

Thanks for the tip on the cables, (and all other comments) I actually just replaced them and noted they were behind the handlebars, and thought it was a mistake; so will have to correct that.

"Proper" is good in quotes, as in "preferred." I don't think there's a right or wrong here, though behind the bars is a lot more common. I've always routed my cables in front of the bar, they stay out of the way better, handlebar/cockpit is cleaner. Functionally no difference. When I wrenched in the early '80s our shop and a lot of others routed in front of the bars.

Yep, I agree. I also wrenched in the 70's and 80's. The main issue with the front routing is that on smaller frames with stems longer than 70mm or so, the cable to the front brake can get a bit sharp. Not so much an issue on larger frames. The rear cable does not matter nearly as much.
Most C&V folks tend to stick with the rear routing to maintain the "preferred" set up for "most" of the racers in the day.

+1 on small frame sidepull setups, also on almost any size frame with front centerpulls or cantilevers, especially with the casing stop on the headset stack. You can't get smooth cable travel routing in front of the bars unless you're using a noodle, or a casing stop that mounts like a reflector bracket, through the fork crown brake hole.