The snyapse is elderly! Decrepit if you will! :)
Congrats tron and welcome to BF!

Jk'n theo..congrats on the synapse! And a discrete pic couldn't hurt too bad!

Here's my CAAD9.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C...s640/CAAD9.jpg

Custom build up on a warranty replacement frame.
Wheels: WI H2/H3 laced to Velocity Aerohead, O/C rear. 28/32 spoke count. (I build all my own.) These are my everyday wheels, my lightweight wheels are older low-spoke Ultegra hubs, with a Ti freehub body on the rear, laced to Kinlin 30s. 18/24 spoke count.
SRAM Red shifters, Rival DRs, Force brakes and Force BB30 crank. This particular SRAM combination is lighter than going all Force, but costs less. Slightly heavier than all Red. The entire bike, in the configuration you see pictured here, weighs in just a fraction over 16lbs.

I went with SRAM because the best deal I could get on a BB30 crank was the Force one...so I decided to try something other than Shimano. Gotta say, once you're used to Shimano shifting, SRAM leaves a bit to be desired.

First thing to go was the SRAM cassette I had been running. Replaced it with a slightly heavier Ultegra one. Much better. Then the large chainring. Bolted an Ultegra chainring on there, and the improvement in front shifting was revelatory. I think if I could run a Shimano FD it would be even better.

Fork is an Easton EC90 SL. I did have a Cannondale Premium on there, but it was the victim of a mild crash. Most of the bike was untouched, but the ugly gouge that the corner of the curb dug into the fork blade made me nervous. Worked out alright...the Easton is lighter and rides just as well.

Banzai -- blasphemy! :D

What don't you like about the Sram shifting so far, the movement of the chain or the shifters themselves?

I've been telling myself that if I switched from Shimano to Sram, I'd keep using a Shimano crankset since mine have been shifting so much better than the Truvativ/Sram cranks I've ridden.

Specifically the movement of the chain.

Though I have noticed that double tasking a single lever for shifts makes the swing to a larger cog and/or chainring a very large motion compared with even my 105 group on a different bike. This is most noticable to me riding in the drops, where Shimano shifting is a bit more effortless. Unfortunately (or fortunately) I spend a lot of time in my drops, so it's something I often think about. On the hoods it doesn't really matter to me.

As far as chain movement goes, putting an Ultegra chainring on there, and an Ultegra cassette, had a very positive effect on drivetrain function. If you ever do this yourself, I had to file down the anti-chaindrop peg on the chainring so that it would clear the fat armed CF crank.

Here's my Caad
Finally starting to ride it again after a couple months off due to a crash. It's nothing special now, but I do hope for it to be someday. Only things changed for now are the EA90 wheelset and a carbon stem.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...2/caad10-1.jpg

Very nice. Glad you recovered from your crash.

I think the idea that SRAM had for the DoubleTap was for quicker upshifting on the rear while riding on the hoods (think sprint finishes). More like "clicks" instead of "swings" on the small lever as compared to Shimano.

Downshifts are usually done on the hoods (more so during climbs). To me, SRAM has a shorter swing due to the action on a smaller inner lever - but is harder to do (tighter), mainly because you have to go over the upshifting mechcanism first. Downshifting on Shimano on the larger outer lever needs less effort due to more leverage.

On the front it's the same thing as well.

For me, shifts on SRAM's DoubleTap feel more deliberate, "snappier" if I should say so. While on Shimano it's a smoother action and is more refined.

As for Campagnolo, well... It's a Campagnolo! :D

But we digress... Back to talking about our beloved CAADs! :)

Sprinting on the hoods would be highly unorthodox, and not that effective.

If you can't/won't sprint in the drops, the bike is probably set up wrong.

Agreed. I see people do it though. they aren't usually people I would want to copy form from. I will use the bends a little but usually the drops.

Brain fart! I meant "drops".

Still going strong!

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=276315

Here's my CAAD9, taken on yesterday's cool weather ride...Still love this bike, the crankset is creaking now though (tried greasing the bolts, tightening, even locktite)


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8460/8...99433eca_z.jpg
by , on Flickr

Is that a BB30 shell with an adapter for the Shimano crank? If so...could be yet another BB30 creak from the interference fit interface. However, if it's not that, your most likely culprits are as follows:

With Shimano HT II cranks, a lot of shops screw up the axial pre-load. The part that is commonly referred to as a "dust cap" on the NDS is the pre-tension for the axial loading of the bearings. I see a LOT of shops crank that thing down tight, and then tighten the crank-arm bolts. What this does is side-load the bearings, and over time (a short time if they're heavily side-loaded) they start to creak and tick.

Saddles are a VERY common source of perceived bottom bracket creaks. The saddle moves with your butt with every pedal stroke, and if it's creaky...it carries right down to the bottom bracket.

Otherwise, pedal/cleat interface can be a very common source.

You say that like you're surprised! Mine (same frame, same color, but mostly still with original equipment) still feels like new. I just finished a 20+ mph century on it - and it rode like a dream.

I have to say that I'm getting tired of the design, though. A plain color would have more "lasting power" for me.

I've thought about getting it professionally resprayed - but that money would be better spent on a decent wheelset...

Nope, not BB30. It's HT II.

I did the install, and now that I read your post, I may have cranked the dust cap, I actually had no idea that was the real function of it, I'll take another look at it.
I've rulled out the saddle and pedal/cleat interface. I'm sure it's in the BB area/Crankset. It's possible the BB is pooched, it's still the original (and cheap enough to replace)


Thanks for that.

That cap should basically be "finger snug" with the tool that fits the cap. Something on the order of 5 lbs of pressure. Just enough to snug up the bearings, but you don't want to side-load them.

Step one: Snug/pre-load bearings.
Step two: Tighten crank arm bolts.

After all these years, I finally got one, and I love it. It's an old-ish Caad8. It's stiff, responsive and feels fast. It's also light: the bare frame is 1265g, size 58. I got the frame alone (no fork, headset or clamps), with a couple of dents in the top tube, on Ebay for $33!!! Cool. :p I can't believe I forgot to spin the cranks around for the photo, HA

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...user/caad3.jpg

WOW,! A CAAD8 for $33 - what a deal! And it's 'Handmade in USA' :thumb: Cannondale still sells the CAAD8 for $1450 (spec'd with 105), but it's already made in Taiwan.

If the dents are merely cosmetic and there's nothing wrong with the way it rides then good for you. Enjoy! :D

Yeah! Awesome! It's taken me about a year to find a great deal on Ebay

I'd be more concerned about that saddle pointed to the moon! ;)

The "CAAD8" that Cannondale sells now has almost nothing in common with that older CAAD8, save for the name. 531Aussie's CAAD8 is almost indistinguishable from the CAAD9 if it wasn't labelled.

The current "CAAD8" is just a run-of-the-mill entry-level Al frame. I was actually kind of offended when Cannondale decided to even call it that, since it's certainly not "Advanced" (the second A in CAAD), and the older CAAD8 was actually a pro-tour frame.

Yes, as evidenced by the welds on the Taiwanese-made CAAD8. I did mention in my post that the new CAAD8 was made in Taiwan, and 531Aussie's was a US-made one.

The strong Saeco team used the CAAD8 in the grand tours.

Ha! :D Truth be told, I only threw that saddle on for the photo, because my regular saddles are a bit tattered. Although, I do have my saddles titled slightly upward, old-school style.