Can someone explain to me why the recent year CAAD8s are not up to par with the frame quality of CAAD7 or first generation CAAD8s? Someone mentioned a few pages back that if I wanted an even (closest) replacement for a CAAD7, I should jump to CAAD10. And where does CAAD9 fall into all this (assuming I could find a new CAAD9 frame)?

BTW, am I correct that the CAAD7 fork was full carbon, whereas the new CAAD8's are not?

I'm just trying to compare the frames, not the components sets that typically come on these different models/years.

The CAAD lineage at current time would be the CAAD10. They created the CAAD8 models recently as a lower budget model. Different alloy, tube shape, geometry, non carbon steerer, and price. It's still a fine bike for the money but it's not what has made this thread 160+ pages long.

Thank you for the brief summary. Calling the current model "CAAD8" is awfully confusing, and IMO, misleading, especially since there was once a CAAD8 that was up to the same standards/materials as the lineage.

It really is. As much as I'm a fan of Cannondale, that particular bit of labeling seems like deliberately deceptive marketing.

If you could actually find a CAAD9 (big "if" there), it's virtually indistinguishable from the original CAAD8. The last year model CAAD9 had BB30 (meh), and there were some very subtle changes to the top-tube/head-tube junction/shaping, and where the seat stays attached to the seat tube, but you'd have to look close to notice without the label.

Took your advice. Continental GP 4000S along with a FSA SLK crank and Regal seat.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0/IMG_8454.jpg

I've been trying to get up-to-speed on the BB30 bottom bracket. Are most CAAD10 owners running BB30 cranks? Or do you think most are adapting to 24mm standard cranksets (i.e. Shimano)? I'm not trying to spawn 6 pages on BB30 debate, but as someone who is "upgrading" from an older CAAD, and doesn't keep up on such things, this issue came out of left-field. I must say discussions of loctite, special tools, creaking, etc is making me stress about running a Shimano crank.

Most run BB30 because there are plenty of good BB30 cranks. The best for stiffness to weight is the Cannondale Hollowgram SiSl2 cranks (many people run them on non Cannondale bikes too). There are a few that have some issues like the FSA gossamer does loosen up a little but not on all of them. More often than not the source of the creak is NOT the BB30 system it just always sounds like it comes from that area as the sound resonates. Usually it's a skewer too loose, seatpost not fully greased, pedals not greased enough, headset not pre-loaded, etc. If it is your bearings it's very easy to apply some Loctite green which is gapping compound and it will keep the bearings seated and resolve any issues.

If you do want to go with a Shimano crank that is fine but you add a lot of weight which is one of the benefits of going BB30. Praxis Works has a very good solution and I would not use anything else if I was going with Shimano cranks like the 9000. http://www.praxiscycles.com/pages/conversion

Nice! Still kind of wish I had gone w/ the 10-5 for the team colors over my white/red ultegra. (although I REALLY wanted the black/dark grey one :()

Thanks for the product link. Praxis seems like a more elegant solution for an adapter - more of an integrated solution, without the loctite install/removal hassles. The $85 price tag is a little steep. I don't know how many miles I would expect to get out of this adapter/bearing kit - I guess that would dictate if the price is worth it.

i run a gxp quarq on my current caad and used wheel manufacturing delrin adapters for my previous caad10s to use gxp. My 50cm (newest) has english threaded sleeves pressed in, which im like eh about.

bb30 isn't really a debate, but just if u can run it, run it. is the stiffness noticeable? eh. is it lighter? yea by a little (once again though, not very* noticeable). bb30 bearings can sometimes be less than desired.

Sup guys, joining the cult. Picking up a frameset, need some numbers.

Headtube upper and lower inner diameters on a 2012 CAAD10? I'm gonna need a headset, and don't want to go with the one cannondale offers. Can anyone point me to a good aftermarket replacement?

Also, anyone having any issues with a BB30-->Threaded adapter? Not digging all the complaints about BB30 bearings. I'll wait for the kinks to get worked out.

I'm running the cane creek headset with the shorty topcap.



Top Headset:
SHIS:IS42 - 1-1/8" Italian Integrated (ISi) Threadless

Bottom Headset:
SHIS:IS47/33 - 1-1/4" Integrated (IS)

Perfect, exactly what I was after.

Just to check, this would work fine, correct?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FSA-Orbit-CF...-/140711750573

haha did a ride with the race wheels #idiot but so smooth

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...g?t=1352821606

Yeah that will work. You will have to use the stock compression plug though. If you don't already have the stock FSA one I would buy the new one Cannondale just released. It's 14g vs the stock 50g one.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=283927

Ah, good to know. The frameset I'm gonna purchase comes with a plug, so I'll see whats up with that one first.

The reports of problems with creaking from the BB area are for the original BB30 standard where the BB30 bearings are pressed directly into the BB shell. Not sure how the set up in CAAD10 is, but some manufacturers are switching to a PF30 (PressFit30) system where the bearings are housed in a thicker plastic/delrin shell that when pressed into the BB shell mates better with less likelihood to creak.

To run Shimano cranks in BB30 frames like the CAAD10 requires an adapter since Shimano doesn't support BB30 (they stuck with a 24mm diameter spindle instead of the 30mm spindle of BB30 cranks). You could use the Praxis Works conversion BB which screws together and expands unlike some of the press in adapters: http://praxiscycles.com/pages/conversion

One of my bikes is SRAM Red GXP cranks in the SRAM BB30 to GXP adapter, and that is one that is Loctite/glued into the BB shell, which is basically permanent.

I think the CAAD10 is still BB30. In fact, I think all the alloy frames on the 30mm standard are. PF30 appears to only be across the carbon lines.

The creaking sucks. I have not been happy with mine. The only reason I haven't gone to an adapter for a Shimano crank is because there's no guarantee that an adapter would solve the creaking. It's still an interference fit with the frame, which is where the creaking comes from.

BB30 doesn't function any better or worse than 24mm spindles. But it's SO irritating.

Does Praxis offer any guarantee? Is there some way for you to try it out, and if no creak, stick with a Shimano setup?

I met someone with the FSA adapter (loctite) running Ultegra crank, and they said they've had absolutely no problems (or creak).

Guy's, I want to change the brake calipers on my CAAD7, I currently still have the Cannondale Theta brakes that came stock. I want either 105 or Ultegra calipers for the bike and was wondering if Ultegra 6600 calipers would do just fine. Thanks in advance.

I'm officially in. eBay steal.
http://i.imgur.com/hPfHd.jpg

The Praxis won't creak because of the design. You still use gapping compound to prevent any movement but the shell compresses against the c-clips creating a press fit style bb. If there is creaking with the praxis then your frames BB is damaged and you need a new frame.

^ Nice, I hope you enjoy it when it's built up. I have a 2012 with the same paint. Is that an after-market fork?

yeah, its a whisky 7 fork.

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=4544

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=284092I'm in!
I just picked up my new CAAD 10. I had the bar tape changed to Cannondale green tape, and bought Ultegra wheels. I wanted to eventually change over to tubeless tires, which was one of my reasons for choosing this wheel set.
Now I'll research which tubeless tires to get. Over the winter, I'll ride on Continental Gatorskins, hopefully they will be in this week.