I've been using electrical tape... but my frame is matte black, so you can hardly see it.
You can see it under the cables.
http://www.pedalroom.com/p/2012-cann...cm-8419_14.jpg

don't get the lizard skins b/c they have gaudy looking lizards that stand out. Get the 3M tape

Thanks guys.

I had someone help do the measurements, I didn't want to try making them myself, as I'm sure I'd be quite a bit off trying to read where the number is while holding my position, or marking and measuring.

I'm not terribly worried about the brakes, but would swap out the pads based on the recommendations here if I end up with a 10-5.

The plan is to buy from a local shop, depending on who has what in stock it may be a little further away than 'local'. My cousin works at a shop about a 2 hour drive away that had some 2012 10-3's at the price I want, so it's an option, but I really don't want to drive that far to get it, I'd rather support one of the dealers closer to me.

This is why I was concerned, I'd read that the top tube length was most important, but the recommended top tube length put me in a 56, which seemed crazy based on my experience with my old bike as a measured 58. But again I don't know for sure what the geometry was on the Gardin and it probably wasn't setup properly for me in all respects.

I found myself staying away from the black and silver, although the more I look at it, I wouldn't rule it out as an option. I wasn't staying away because I didn't like it, it was more that my Gardin was black with a silver fork/seat post/cranks/etc. so I was wanting a bit of a change in colour.

I'll definitely be looking at both and seeing which feels right, I want this to last (I had my last bike for about 12 years) and I want to make sure it's going to be comfortable, even if it means that I can't get the 10-3 on sale due to stock, I'll just order the 10-5 in the size I need.

I'll be trying them out in the next couple of weeks so that I have an idea of what I'm looking for so that I can monitor local prices and make my purchase when the money is together and the time is right.

Thanks again, and keep the pictures coming :)

garage door pic
 

I have now ridden this CAAD10 about 300km and I have to say that the ride has not been what I expected. My other bike is a Specialized Roubaix and from what I've heard this aluminum bike was supposed to be a rough riding jitterbug.
What I've found is exactly the opposite. While its not a damped as the Roubaix it feels more lively and aggressive. I've ridden the Roubaix for over 30,000kms now and it was no problem getting used to this CAAD10. Bang for the buck this thing is tops.
I'm not quite 5'9" and this 54cm frame fits great.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b4...psa3e1e6e6.jpg

just installed the yokos on my planet x brakes. did u have to grind down on the brake housing? i measured it to me 5.3mm in diameter but the planet x barrel adjusters were right below 5.1mm in diameter. i ended up using the jagwire ferrules, but i might have to try this.

What's the smallest size the caad's come in? Looking to get a for my wife since mine rides amazing

Hey! Don't you know you can't do that on an aluminum bike????

The 10 come in women's specific geo.

Tisk, tisk, you missed the big ring:-)

Love my CAAD too. Fantastic bike for the $$$ and I agree completely about it feeling lively and aggressive. Love how responsive it is. So many CF bikes feel "dead".

Men's= 48 smallest
Women's= 44 smallest

+1 this is so true! i made a mistake of getting one(clear) from rei. what i did was reposition them so that cables lies over the lizards and covered them :).

There is the 3M protective tape for cars which is tougher than the stuff I've seen for bicycles. There are also rubber grommets and sleeves that you can put on the cable housing instead to protect the paint, like this: http://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/pr...otector-rubber.

You can also route the cables over to the other side so they won't rub on the HT and have the cables back over underneath the downtube.

I got a nearly perfectly clean/straight cut, then cleaned it up further. I twisted the housing in the same direction the steel sheathing goes and got it to go in. Tight fit, but it can work with some diligence.

Wish I had seen these first, but I already ordered the 3m protective film off amazon.

I'm in the process of building my CAAD10. I encountered an issue from transferring my components from my old CAAD9. The front brake female thread sleeve doesn't fit (too small) the hole on the fork. Do they make a larger sleeve OTC? If so, what is thing called? Or does this mean a new brake?

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=318088

If all goes well I'll have my SuperSix tomorrow. I suspect I'll get it toward the end of the week though...

It's called recessed nut.

You probably need the 19mm one for your caad10.
Part Number KP160 http://www.cannondaleexperts.com/Can...160_p_433.html

I just shoved the housing in, no ferrule. It didn't really seems necessary to me and oh god the brakes feel niiiice.

this is what i ended up doing. i agree braking feels super firm and tight with the yokos but i wonder if i should remove this ferrule and go thru all the hassle again ha.

http://i43.tinypic.com/10dcvo6.jpg

The pic I took the day I picked my 10-3 up is back on page 191

Where did that Jagwire ferrule even come from... LOL Anyway, I'd keep it if it feels fine. Although, if your brakes fail please don't sue me.

Yes I saw that while reading through the thread (it took awhile). Very nice, exactly what I'm looking for. What type of cages are those?

LOL I did the same. I also cut some of the pieces to make them fit a bit better b/c realistically the clear protectors are bigger than necessary.

Work in progress. Will be ready in about a week.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=318218

I love that color combination...