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Originally Posted by SirHustlerEsq
(Post 16523336)
Recently had a ticking noise and it turned-out to be trashed bearings in the rear derailleur sprockets. Drop the chain and spin the crank.
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Time to service or replace bearings then.
(I am an idiot, ask someone who really knows before you waste time) |
Originally Posted by Vince Canepa
(Post 16523367)
Color me confused. The Campy literature surely indicates, in more than one place, that a "true" BB30 Over-Torque is available. Very weird.
That was about a thousand miles ago and no problems at all. My friend however, who still has the BB30's is on second set of bearings in the same time and has creaking issues with the second set already. |
Originally Posted by SirHustlerEsq
(Post 16523390)
Time to service or replace bearings then.
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Originally Posted by Doughboy6
(Post 16523432)
I suspected that this is what it may be, just surprised that it would happen with so few miles, I have only had the bike since the middle of January. Now I am really beginning to hate winter roads.
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Here's some tool porn for you guys if you're nerdy like me. This is my BB30 installation setup.
http://i.imgur.com/NtwXzM5.png OH, when you all get bearings, switch them to angular contact bearings. They are much better for bb applications. They're Enduro 71806's. Should be about 20 bucks for the pair. |
Originally Posted by chaser97
(Post 16523395)
Yep, that's what I mean. Campag BB30 over torque is a con. Believe me I'm the biggest Campag fan ever... Since I was a kid in the 80's but this 'BB30 standard' claim is a joke. Forgive me if I got something wrong but I posted my actual experience, having the parts there in front of me, I'm a very proficient bike tech. I took the 'over torque' chainset back to the shop and just purchased the adapters for my existing Campag chain-set. Sorted : )
That was about a thousand miles ago and no problems at all. My friend however, who still has the BB30's is on second set of bearings in the same time and has creaking issues with the second set already. |
Ack. Forgot the link:
http://fairwheelbikes.com/c/forums/t...-torque-ultra/ |
Originally Posted by Nagrom_
(Post 16523718)
It's not winter roads, it's just bad installation. BB30 really complains when not installed properly.
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Unless you have really doused things while riding and gotten a good bit of crud in the BB 650 miles is pretty short time frame for them to go bad. They come with less grease than I like when they are built and assembled and unless your LBS really goes through things thoroughly the BB can need lubing early. If it is trashed, and you feel that is the case, you might want to take it in when the shop opens back up. Servicing the BB isn't difficult or time consuming, you need the correct size hex wrench to remove the crank spider/arm assembly and use a good, clear diagram of the entire BB so you can reinstall the parts correctly. Better yet, take some digital pictures of things as you go so you have a reference for the reassembly order, if you decide to look in to what is going on.
But, I think its a warranty item with that few miles, don't screw around with things and have the LBS say that you messed it up your self. Best of luck. Bill |
Originally Posted by Vince Canepa
(Post 16523841)
To add a bit more confusion, see the bottom center photo. No dimensions, but it looks like the Campagnolo document I posted earlier. I can't help wondering if the shop supplied you with the wrong parts.
The shop spoke to the distributor who confirmed that I needed to fit some press in cups to make it work with BB30 frame. also please note this product... http://www.wiggle.co.uk/campagnolo-over-torque-bb-cups/ |
Originally Posted by Doughboy6
(Post 16523944)
Whats the fix for this, reinstallation? Or is this a warranty issue?
New bearings will need to be installed, which should be supplied through warranty. |
Originally Posted by Nagrom_
(Post 16525126)
Yes, and yes.
New bearings will need to be installed, which should be supplied through warranty. |
Originally Posted by Doughboy6
(Post 16525389)
Thank you all for your advice and help. Now I get the fun of having to deal with a LBS that didn't actually sell me the bike. I purchased it while I was home on Christmas break in NJ, but am at school in WV. I'll let you all know how it goes.
Your local Cannondale dealer shouldn't give you an issue with the warranty process. |
You might want to give your bike a good cleaning. And if washing it use low pressure running water from your garden hose, and wash from the top down. Then dry it of, i use compress air to dry mine with. then a detailer for the paint. lube your chain, and check your RD to make sure its not out of adjustment and you FD as well. Also with 650mi you need to check your chain to make sure its not stretch. Because if you ride with a stretch chain you will end up wearing out the cassette and chainring. If still hearing the sound have your LBS check the BB30 bearing, doubt thats it though because they usually make a popping sound when the bearing is bad. also make sure all the bolts are tight and none came undone.
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I'm itching for spring to come, so I can ride my 2013 Team CAAD 10.....
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a beautiful 75* in California ;)
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Did a 100 klm today in 86deg f temp
0n my 2014 CAAD 10 105 |
1 Attachment(s)
Cannondale N+3
The image below is a photoshop mockup of the bike build as it's intended to be, or close to it. Found the frame on eBay, a 2010 Caad 9, for my wife. Haven't seen this particular frame/color pattern before. I hope she likes it when it's all done. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3786/1...3d0d2714_o.jpg |
That's awesome, she should love it (at least my gf would :p)
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Hey guys. Posted a few days ago about but a used caad 10
checked out the bike and it looks in good condition. Maybe needs a new chain. Need some advice please on best course. 2011 caad 10 with SRAM force used for 1100$cad or a new 2013 10 with 105 for 1450$cad. I thinking of going new as the. I get piece of mind with the warranty. Any thoughts. Please and thank you. |
For the extra bit of cash I'd go the new one
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What condition is the 2011 Force in? For a 3 year old bike it is high, Force is a good group set but 105 is pretty much an Ultegra with a few more ounces and you aren't getting a Shimano crank set on a CAAD unless it had the adapter installed, new it won't. If the LBS is a good one, the 2014 fits you correctly and you can go the price I'd stick with that one. Just my thoughts, as you asked. Best of luck with either one.
Bill |
I agree with qcpmsame, I'd spend the extra $350 in a heartbeat for the new 2013 over the 2011. Those are both good prices considering they're CAD$. Take 20% off for US dollar equivalent.
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Originally Posted by vschippy
(Post 16533890)
For the extra bit of cash I'd go the new one
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