So, the blue bare knuckle was too small. Ended up getting rid of it some time ago.

Someone's offering me a kawasaki green bare knuckle at an AMAZING price. It's a 54cm though, which, based on my experience with my previous blue one, geometry charts I've been checking on the netwebs, and other resources, I'm almost afraid will end up a size big.

What y'all think? Pass? Other BK owners wanna chime in about their frame size and how it fits? Anyone? Scrod? Bueller?

I'm leaning towards pass... but it's Kawasaki green, man. SO SW8

I just realized I'm seeking fit advice on the net again. I have come full circle.

A good friend of mine has a 54 bk and c-t the seat tube is about 57cm. That might be too big for you.

****. I feared that would be the case. Judgment was telling me to pass... but the price for the complete was so good. It would've been worth it just for the frameset and crankset alone.

Sounds like down the line it'll be a hassle though. Don't have time for that.

My 54cm BK matches dead on with the numbers on the geo chart and is very similar fit-wise to my 56cm Dodici.

Center-to-top measurement of a seat tube has no relevance in the real world. Ever. It's the c-c measurement that matters.

*shrug* It mattered when I was telling Spicer how long I wanted my seat tube to be. I also happen to live in the real world.....

How could the overall length of a seat tube matter when it comes to bike fit? If the seat tube on my BK - or any other bike, for that matter - protruded and extra inch or four but the c-c measurement was the same, it would have absolutely no effect on the frame's geometry. It would just mean that less seatpost would be visible.

I always thought center to top meant to measure along the seat tube from the center of the bottom bracket to the place where the seat tube meets the top of the top tube. Because like Scrod said, it doesnt matter how far the seat tube extends past the top tube.

it's true that ST length can just be compensated for with more or less seatpost, but then again overall comfort is determined by a combination of factors, and not just that one.

I'm probably going to try and test ride this thing. See how it feels. I'll determine whether the 54 works for me or I'll hold out for a 52 / something else.

c-t measurement should mean center of the BB to the top of the top tube, but some manufacturers make it confusing by measuring to the top of the actual seat tube - which is why it's always a better idea to base your fit off the c-c measurement.

Also, top tube measurement is always much more of a factor than the seat tube.

Can I assume none of the quality manufacturers do this? Is it like amplifiers, where only the really cheap brands give you power ratings in peak instead of rms?

Sidenote: Someone just offered to sell me a complete GT Pulse with Dura Ace and a bunch of other porn worthy parts.

Will undoubtedly end up being steeper than the BK, but oh so tempting. Guy is just "taking offers" which is kind of a pain in the ass... but may be promising too.

I was kind of regretting selling the GTB a while back and now all of a sudden this comes along. Should I? How much?

Hows the condition?

pretty much mint

The pulse is aluminium, it isn't going to feel the same as your GTB, however the PRON factor is signifigantly higher.

On ebay I've seen Pulse framesets in good condition go for around $600-$700, maybe that could help you decide on an offer. It really of depends on how desperate the guy is to sell.

Pulses and GTB's are both aluminum.

Gtb is made in taiwan 7005
Pulse is made in UHMURICUH Easton 7xxx (dont remember exactly which tube set)

7005

Hmm, my drunken mind forgot that!

I would probably buy the pulse and if you dont love it part it.

I liked the GTB when I had it. Not as forgiving as steel frames but a solid ride nonetheless. I just sold it impulsively when i saw i could profit from it and regretted it later.

I'll sleep on it.

I would too.

I've been looking at this bike: https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=150891434587

It's clearly worth the $400 it's up to now, but what's the most one should reasonably pay for it?

That crap struck first in MTB world cuz they went sloped TTs BITD. Now measurements are all over the place. If you wanna figure out what a frame is gonna be like it has to be built up and you need to bring a level and a plumb bob to figure it all out.

"Real world" dude cracks me up. I ride 15.5 - 19" seat tube mountain bikes (sized by manufacturers), and they fit nicely. Those numbers don't really mean a damn thing.

Gotta add : Real world for me is that seat tube length only really matters when you're getting olde square road frames.

In the near future, after I finish my Leader, should I try to sell my road bike frame, and get a chicarbon cyclocross frame?
I've been toying with the idea for a while now...

I just got my ChiCarb frame, and am blown away by the quality.

Yea I was looking through the seller's store and saw the cross frame and it looks sweet