Haha. Regardless, appreciate the discussion.

Perfect.

Which is also why shorter stems are considered "proper" on Leader's aluminum frames.

this is so disturbing, but i am enthralled. where is this from?

/irrelevant

So much lawling

Hey Scrod finally placed an order. My question is, will the seat height gonna have to be adjusted once i ride with clips? i normally ride with the front of my foot on the pedal spindle. With cages i have to put my foot further in than I'm use to right? This will affect height or no?

Leonard Pt. 6 ;)

/not scrod

:thumb:

Dear Scrod,
My chain recently dropped when I skip stopped. I put it back on but then it started to make clicking noises occasionally, not with my pedaling, but randomly. So when i got home I inspected my chain for stiff links or to see if it got twisted or anything and I could not detect anything wrong with it. I still took it off and cleaned it thoroughly as well as my chainring and cog and stuff, but it still makes the clicking noise like it is catching or the chainline is horribly wrong. I have the KMC 710 Sl as well. Also, i have not changed anything in the drive train on my bike in a few months. And this was the first time my chain has ever fallen off. I also measured my chainline and it is only 2mm off. I am stumped. Thanks.

If it got lodged between your bottom bracket and drive-side crank arm as I've seen happen before, a link may be damaged or there may be something screwy going on near your BB cluster.
/notscrod

If you dropped a chain and your chainline is good, it was likely much too loose. Also, a chain link can be damaged without being able to see it.

Why am I more relaxed when on the 930 than the dirtjumper?

How would I be able to tell if it is damaged? I have left over links from when I first broke it I could replace it with. Would it just be tight? I also changed the tension, I never thought to check about it often cuz I have chain tensioners and had been problem free for months. Thanks though

Relieve the chain of tension and check each link if a link tight you have issues. Also inspect where the pins are pressed in, if there is a bulge stop using said chain and get new.

Scary story with a funny reason from the track last Thursday:

During the C points race one of the rider's in the group dropped his chain. It dropped on the cones, so it didn't lock up. He also stayed calm and handled his bike well. So dispite the very scary incident everything was just fine. The next day the rider took his bike to the shop to find out that the two of the bolts holding his steel dropouts to the frame had fallen out. So while pushing around 80rpm, he moved the dropout and his chain fell off.

Dear scrod,
Who is better looking, Zooey Deshanel or Katie Perry?

Sincerely,

Ben

Zooey is cute Katie is sexy.

notscrod

I inspected the chain last night, there was one link that was kinda tight, but not tight enough to keep it from bending properly. you could only tell it was tight when you bent the link all the way back. I'm gonna try and replace it later today and see what happens, if not, ima get a new chain and see if that changes anything.

If I had to sit and have a conversation with either one, I would choose Zooey.

it would certainly be more interesting....

looking for a 55-56cm Steel frame with a longer +22" (565-570mm) top tube that isn't a "fixed freestyle" but can still take a 32c tire

So far I have found the

Surly Steamroller

AllCity Bigblock

Motobacane Jury

anything else that you can think of?

scrod, am i gonna have a hard time getting the seatpost clamp bolt thats missing from my 722 frame? i contacted citygrounds but i didnt get a response yet, just wondering if i should prepare myself for a pain in the ass

So I swapped my chain out today to see if I could get the clicking/grinding to stop, but it is still there and I can feel it occasionally, though not nearly as bad as before. It would be hard to notice if I wasnt paying attention to it. Is there something else the chain might be catching on? or does this chain just have to wear in a little? Thanks

Next thing to try since it wasn't is the bottom bracket is either too tight or too loose and while at it check the pedals and chainring bolts. While the cranks are off, spine the bottom bracket, if it's rough the bottom bracket is shot and needs replacement if smooth and no slop it's fine still. Go through that and still creaking, it's either the seatpost fixing bolt(s) or it's in the hubs. If not, you may need the frame to be inspected. Wouldn't hurt to inspect the chainring itself either. A screwed up chainring tooth could cause the noise as well, especially if there is a grinding sound.

Clicking sounds are hard to diagnose.

Give your LBS a call, mine had a few in stock when I called and asked.

/notscrod

Scrod, I've been looking at cranksets recently, and I was wondering if you knew anything about the All-City 612 and the Miche Advanced Track Crank, and how they compare to Omniums and S300's. I know all four are different, especially in quality. Just more or less looking for how you would rate them in order I guess.

The All-City 612 is a rebranded Andel Standard track crankset with a slightly different chainring (and higher price tag). It's a decent crankset for the money and is stiffer than S300s.

Miche crankset is great but I've had a lot of trouble with their bottom brackets loosening up.

Omniums are awesome but we all know my opinion of the stock GXP BB. No me gusta.

+1

It's a seatpost binder bolt, not a unicorn's horn.

All of this.

i know its a simple part, i was just thinking mabye because the 722s are discontinued now i might have a hard time
i dont really want to pay for something i should have already either, ill see what cg says and ill take it from there, gotta wait till i get paid to get me a crank puler anywho

another question: whats the threshhold of "unsafe" for the ratio of steer tube:empty space in the stem? mine might be short by about 15mm from my previous setup and i was thinking of testing it out with my current fork, but if thats too much i wont bother taking it all apart