lol.

if i go by my shirt size of 32/33 is normals out to a 56/57 tt

Im +5'11" with a trunk of 24 & 7/8". His might be ok.

yeah dont do that.

The others are right. Standover height isn't very important. Once you figure out your fit, buying frames is easy greasy.

You could always measure in inches and convert it to cm.

I think reach is a little more important. Stand over is important to a certain point, as in you want a proper pedal extension, and be able to stand over the top tube with a 2"-3" clearance. Can have that and the bike's top tube still be too long for you.

What color shall I go with when I get around to having the 930 repainted?

ill try again tomorrow, im sure accuracy will improve when im not trying to measure myself

i figured the calc would just convert inches to cm when i plugged it in anyway, didnt think converting it would make much of a difference

It did convert them.

Would you say that this is a sketchy bridge?

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/a432ae3e.jpg

The road surface on the bridge was just four loose metal plates that were somewhat warped, was un-nerving when I went over it this past Sunday...

well yeah, i was assuming scrod meant convert it to cm before i plugged it in?

It's unnecessary regardless.

Yes.

Scrod - I have a 1" threaded chromed fork with an enormously long steer tube. I have an older frame that I would like to use this on but is currently setup with a 1" threadless headset. The headtube is quite a bit shorter than the unthreaded part of the threaded fork. Can the steer tube of the fork just be cut down to suit? The steer tube (unthreaded section) is also chromed and I don't know if that will cause unwanted slipping of the stem when mounted.

Im back and forth between building my own bike or buying complete. I am looking for a light weight aluminum bike for when I do distance rides. Any recommendations on complete bikes under 1200?

Thanks,
Justin

If you're completely removing the threaded portion, you've got an instant threadless fork. The chrome shouldn't be a problem but if it is, a file or some sandpaper quickly remedies that.

Scrod, after putting together the BK last night I've come to realize that I must be oddly proportioned. The top tube fits perfectly, but the seat tube is too long. Guess standover is a little important. Besides buying 165 cranks to move the saddle up a little bit, do you know of any seatposts that have a really small clamp height?

Is your main concern to have more seatpost showing? Can you post a pic of how your bike is set up now?

Scrod, how much do you know about Leader road frames and dating them? My team lent me a 715r frame for the season. I don't have pictures yet, but do you know what years this frame was manufactured? The frame is black and has Spinal Tap-y font, if that helps.

If you can provide a pic, I can find out.

Thanks, man.

To be honest, as long as it fits I'm good. I guess I'm just used to more post showing. This is the best I can do for now, it's raining outside.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...93862617_n.jpg

Wow...I just realized your 722 is a 55cm. My 722 is a 58 and I'm riding a 54cm Bare Knuckle.

****....I could probably ride a 58 722. My road bike is a 56, but because of the compact geo I think it was misleading to me.

newb question scrod...

I installed FSA The Pig loose ball headset today

The instructions would indicate both bearing cages, balls face the cups but it sees that the upper bearing faces down into the cup and the lower bearing also faces down to the race... Flipping the lower bearing to face up toward the cup doesn't seem like the proper fit

I left the lower bearing facing down. Is that correct?

TIA

The balls should always face the cups.

OK thanks back on it...

so ive returned with new results from my wonderful assistant

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=254644

my arms dont seem to be exceptionally short, yet im following the directions to the T
when i stand up straight my wrist is about 2 inches below my belt

am i just we todd ed or what?