At that point you might as well save up just a little more money and get the Omniums

In all honesty, I have no experience with the BB included with the Andel Deluxe. Anything is probably better than the stock Omnium BB though.

Ha! That cat.

Not really hate. I just had bad experiences with it. Angie is using Omnomniums on her 721 now without any problems. I think she's still using the BB that came with her S300s though...

Alright, clearly my googlefu and searchfu is sucking at the moment, so I'm posting here. What is the difference between a road and FG/SS hub? From what I have been able to tell, the SS/FG hubs are not as wide and are clearly not designed to hold a cassette. But are those the only differences? and could I get more specific (like how wide are SS hubs? and things like that) information?

Thanks!

You seem to have answered all your own questions so you're not doing as bad as you thought!

ok, so how much smaller are the FG/SS hubs?

Most track hubs are spaced at 120mm and have either fixed threading on both sides (for a cog & lockring) or are fixed on one side with threads for a common freewheel on the other. You can install a freewheel on fixed threading but you cannot install a cog and lockring on freewheel threading.

When putting a track hub on a road frame spaced at 130mm, you need to use a 5mm axle spacer on each side.

Yea, I know. Money is just a little tight right now because of some stuff that I have to pay for. Maybe I can survive a few more weeks haha.

Formula is the defacto standard fixed/ss hubs. They are fine quality, and pretty well recomended. They come in both high and low flange, and a variety of spacings. They also offer just about every combo of fixed and single speed. But since you can put either a fixed cog and lockring or a freewheel on either side, there is no reason to get anything but a fixed/fixed hub.

+1

Inner diameter of Nitto B123-AA SSB's?

Don't worry, the Nitto plugs you just bought will fit.

I'd hope lol. Different issue, I'm heading out of town for a month pretty soon, and taking the newly sexed up kilo to break in, mountain territory, and I want to ride brakes. I have a set of dia compe inverse levers, that I was hoping would work for the short period that I'd need them.

I can get an exact measurement for you when I get back to the shop tomorrow.

That'd be sweet. Thanks.

Scrod, test fitted a friends wheel set from his Kilo WT with 32C Kenda KwickRoller Sport tires on it. The back fit fine, but the front did not. Do the Pasela Tourguards run smaller or should I stick with 28C on my 722?

In my experience, Pasela TGs run small. The 25s on my gold 722TS measured a hair under 24mm.

You could always run a 32 in the rear and a 28 in front.

I do this on my Dawes SST they lie when they say it'll take a 32C.

How much lighter (in grams) is the Leader S805 fork compared to the Leader S803 fork?

Also, are Speedplay Zeros good beginner clipless pedals for skidding? If not, what would you recommend?

Thanks.

[notscrod]While Speedplay Zeros are good clipless pedals, I wouldn't exactly say they are beginner friendly. When I had Speedplay Zeros, I found skidding to be awkward feeling due to the float that the Zeros had.

I would just go with a set of shimano 105 pedals and adjust the tension on the pedal.
http://www.jensonusa.com/Pedals/Shim...-PD-5700-Pedal
[/notscrod]

also not scrod. 105's are nice. If you buy them, make an ebay account (if you dont have one), and get them there. There are several sellers that offer 105's, both black and silver, for $62 shipped from the US.

Thanks guys, i'll be sure to get the 105's.

So the 105's aren't compatible with these http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0052_519496_-1 , right?

100% compatible, in fact you don't need an adapter, the cleats will bolt right onto the shoe.

I haven't taken off my front wheel in a bit, but today when I decided to take everything off, clean and install, my front hub/axle threads were stuck to my carbon fork (Leader l806); I literally had to bang the tire off the fork. When I inspected the inside of the drop outs a found a chip and grooves from the axle threads in the drop outs. My question is, should I be worried about critical failure or just let it be with some clear nail polish? Few friends suggest to just leave it, because there are no visible threads coming off the chip or grooves. Just want another opinion, thanks.