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I am super confused; are you trading frames because the sizes are different?
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They may be trading just to trade. Mucky has that oddball copper-plated Kilo.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13991893)
Ohhhh.
Actually, the stock Cane Creek headset has caged ball bearings and the Orbit-X are cartridge, so there's no way the crown races will even be similar. Don't try knocking the races off with a screwdriver & hammer.
Originally Posted by JesusBananas
(Post 13991895)
I am super confused; are you trading frames because the sizes are different?
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13991898)
They may be trading just to trade. Mucky has that oddball copper-plated Kilo.
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Originally Posted by Jaytron
(Post 13991354)
You mean the opposite right? More trail, or higher angle, would then make the bike more stable, correct?
For a given head tube angle and wheel size, trail and rake are inversely related. |
Originally Posted by hairnet
(Post 13991938)
kinda late, but
For a given head tube angle and wheel size, trail and rake are inversely related. |
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Originally Posted by Jaytron
(Post 13991960)
So more rake, equals less trail, equals twitchier handling?
think of it like balancing a pencil on your finger, versus a hockey stick. hockey stick has more 'trail', so it's not sensitive to 'steering' input. the pencil has less, so it's more sensitive. |
Originally Posted by craigcraigcraig
(Post 13992028)
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...TrailDIAG2.jpg |
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Here.
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scrod:
i am selling at 3TTT quill stem on ebay. this is stupid of me but im not sure what the clamp diameter is... using digital calipers, measuring the stem's clamp, its like 25.82....i was thinking at first its a 26.0 clamp...but then i was thinking the clamp compresses down once the bolt gets tightened, and maybe its actually a 25.4 clamp... what do you think? |
I'm fairly certain a lot of older 3T quills have an oddball 25.8 clamp.
edit: an eBay search turned up a bunch listed as 25.8-26.0 |
25.8? weird. i posted them as 26.0, just figured my calipers were off a tiny hair or something...
would it be bad to use them with 25.4 bars? do you think its fine to have them listed as 26.0? would they work with 26.0 bars? i dont really have any spare bars around to test... noone has bidded yet...i could easily revise the listing tho. |
Originally Posted by illdthedj
(Post 13998388)
25.8? weird. i posted them as 26.0, just figured my calipers were off a tiny hair or something...
would it be bad to use them with 25.4 bars? do you think its fine to have them listed as 26.0? would they work with 26.0 bars? i dont really have any spare bars around to test... noone has bidded yet...i could easily revise the listing tho. "26.0 mm is the Italian national standard. Because Italian handlebar and stem brands are so popular, even many bars from other countries have adopted this size, and many people consider it to be a de facto "road" standard. Most expensive drop bars and stems are this size, or the slightly smaller 25.8 mm variant (those are interchangeable.)" /notscrod |
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yah i should have remembered, when it doubt, sheldon brown.
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Scrod:
My friend's V-brakes on her bike have been needing constant readjustment (re-centering). I feel like the brakes shouldn't have to be adjusted so frequently. Do you have any ideas on what the problem might be? (I don't have specific details, but I can try to get them for you). Thanks! |
It's hard to say without seeing the bike. Some V brakes just suck.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 14000789)
It's hard to say without seeing the bike. Some V brakes just suck.
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The springs may be starting to crap out. If you remove the brake arms from the posts, there should be three holes in which the spring can be inserted (typically, it's in the middle hole). Try putting it in the bottom hole, causing the brakes to have a little more 'snap' and usually hold side to side adjustment better.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 14000804)
The springs may be starting to crap out. If you remove the brake arms from the posts, there should be three holes in which the spring can be inserted (typically, it's in the middle hole). Try putting it in the bottom hole, causing the brakes to have a little more 'snap' and usually hold side to side adjustment better.
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Hi, for the next thirty seconds pretend i'm scrod:
also clean the **** out of the brake canti stud posts, and clean the insides of the brake arm mounts... even a speck of dirt in there will put a ton more tension on the spring. if the springs have set screws to adjust tension, try putting them at half tension and bending the spring arms that attach at the top of the canti arms slightly between your thumb and forefinger. also, get new pads so there is as much cable as possible between the two. V brakes are so much easier to work on than actual cantis. |
Originally Posted by cc700
(Post 14001713)
Hi, for the next thirty seconds pretend i'm scrod:
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Scrod I went out for a ride last night and inspecting the bike I saw that 2 chainring bolts were missing, both ends of the bolts. Is this common? The crank in question is a Sugino RD2, thankfully I had an Omnium laying around so I changed it :)
Also can you recommend me good replacement chainring bolts? |
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