hey dude, still having trouble finding a wheelset.
lookin fer 27", aluminum rims, probably sun cr18 or something, 36 hole hubs, DT 2mm stainless spokes or whatever. gonna be running 27"x1-1/4", or 27"x1-3/8" tires on them. i dont want the rims to be too skinny or too wide, i think the cr18s are probably what i want.
95mm front spacing(or 100 and ill cold set the fork) w/ 9mm (traditional QR lever, not the "exposed-type")quick release axle(or 8mm if possible, not sure what i need or whats available but i could always file my fork) 120 rear spacing w/ shimano singlespeed coaster brake(with 1/2"x1/8" offset 18t internal gear/coaster style sprocket) and 10mm axle(pretty sure its 10mm).
bike's a blue '81 schwinn world tourist.

its super hard to find this wheelset for some reason, ive found 3 people on ebay with these sets, but theres always something weird about them or they go out of stock super fast. theres a guy right now that has a set for like $185 shipped, im asking him what the OLD is on the hubs, and if its not what i need, im pretty much boned. my LBS is all like, super fancy stuff and its not even really local, and i know it would be too fancy for me/out of my price range.

can you look through what you got(new parts) and see if you could hook up that wheelset for like under $200 shipped? i dont know why its so hard to find them. i know im being kind of anal about everything matching and not being used but whatever. worth a shot.

scrod just mentioned velomine....
http://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...jpvg1ibp3h2o23

its not a coaster or qr, but im sure you can contact velomine for a custom setup...

Hey Scrod, would the Park Tool BBT-7 (http://www.parktool.com/product/lockring-wrench-bbt-7) work on a track lockring? Specifically the Dura Ace track lockring? It says made specifically for DA lockrings but I'm not sure if it is the same for road and track bikes.

Nope.

I had a feeling it was a completely different tool but I still had a shred of hope that it would work. :(


Thanks!

thx bro ima ask them

Ive currently got a state bicycle co complete bike but have been looking into a leader frame. would the state components fit on the Leader 725 frame? this may be a dumb question but i just want to make sure.

You'll need a zero stack headset. Everything else can be swapped over without any trouble.

Dear Scrod,

I recently converted a '72 Bottecchia Professional to 650b fixed. It's a lot of fun, but the BB is just too low for comfort (255mm) and pedal strike at speed is just too unnerving for me. So, I'm going to buy or build a classic looking 700c wheelset. l like the idea of the polished TB14 and will probably go with 32/32 as the 28h version isn't readily available. I plan to buy from my LBS. So. . . . two questions:

Hubs: I was considering the Velo Orange fixed set, perhaps the Suzue Pro Max (wish they had cut outs in the flanges). . . . what else is out there that fits the bill?

Spokes: I typically build with Sapim Race spokes and brass nipples. Is there a compelling reason to go with a different spoke or is this build beefy enough that I the benefit of super skinny spokes isn't really worth the hassle (twisting of the spokes, etc)?

I could use the Paul hubs on the 650b set, but they're silver anodized (not polished) and it seems like a bit of shame to disassemble a perfectly good wheelset.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8344/8...a8a19e42_b.jpg

Either the VO hubs or Suzue Pro Max are a great choice. I can't really think of anything else with sealed bearings that have a "classic" look (and won't cost a **** ton of money).

I'm not really sure what you're asking regarding spokes. Butted spokes have a lot of benefits besides being able to twist them. Twisted spokes are lame.

Thanks, Scrod. I'm asking if this is a build where I'll feel the advantages of Sapim Lasers versus Sapim Race taking into account the cost difference and difficulty in keeping the thinner spoke from twisting while tensioning.

I believe he's referring to wind-up.

How much difference in the diameter of a wheel is there between a fat 650b and a narrow 700c? Isn't the whole thing behind a 650b conversion that it's really not that different at all?

Right.

Right, that's the idea. The diameter of a 650bx38 and 700x23 are just about the same, I believe.

I measured the BB center to the ground and got the following measurements.

650b x 42mm: 255mm
700c x 27mm (actually 29mm): 265mm

I would be using 700c x 32mm tires so it would be a little more than 10mm higher.

How often do you take apart/regrease your bikes? From when I first started riding up until now I do it every two months. Now I feel that's too frequent and i'm lazy.

I commute by bike about 2-3 times a week if that matters.

I don't service anything on my bikes according to a schedule, just when I feel things need attention (which isn't very often).

Taking your bike apart to regrease stuff every two months is ridiculously excessive.

I do hope the Colonel has some clips and straps to go on those rat trap pedals.

I do, but it'll get SPD when I get it lined out. I just put the track pedals with half clips on there because they were handy.

Hey Scrod, so I finally decided to go with the Big Block but not really digging the new lavender colour. Do you have any pictures of the "Solid Gold"? Tried google and found nadda. Or is the picture on the All City site it? > that onehttp://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=289121 wanna go more subtle

It's a little less yellow than it look on the AC site. The metallic flake is nice.

How do you prevent spokes from twisting?

Prepping them before building helps. Our spoke supplier makes their own spoke prep that looks like red jello (but smells much worse) that practically eliminates wind up even at high tension. RG may start selling it if we can get them to make us a decent size batch.

I used motor oil like the roger musson book said to do, but theyre still twisting. Is prepping them the only way to not twist them?

I use oil too, Sapim spokes and brass nipples. I haven't had a problem with wind up yet, but I haven't built a wheel with a spoke thinner than the Sapim Race. I gather you would put a tape "flag" on the spoke and use a plier to hold keep it from winding up.

That's one plus about bladed spokes.

Your spokes really shouldn't be winding up enough for it to be any problem that tension relieving a few times during the build (as shown in the video I posted a couple of pages back) can't solve.

i use linseed oil on the spoke threads and a lube like bio-lube or tri-flow on the nipple seats....

That tension relieving method is wild:thumb: It's worth doing just for the pleasure of beating your new wheels around :D

What is better; Promax, Dura-Ace, Miche, or Paul hubs?

would i be able to fit 32 pasela TG's under the standard road version of the cambria fenders or would i need to get the touring ones?