Robbie, the brake spacers went in the mail yesterday, should be there tomorrow or Tuesday. Wish I'd known you needed some shifter bosses, could have tossed them in the same envelope. If nobody else comes up with them, circle back to me.

Was a cold day here, so I decided to try to build my first wheelset. (I’ve been acquiring parts for about a year in preparation — just got the spokes yesterday.) After a couple bonehead moves I got the front wheel built up nicely. Laced up the rear and after about 2 hours of tensioning/truing I figured out that my NOS rim has a nice big flat spot in it. Huge bummer. So if anyone can help me finish this wheelset I’d be forever appreciative:

ISO: 700c 32 Wolber GTX (or similar) clincher rim; erd ~ 612mm; gray ano.

HAVE: You name it — I’d consider making a deal with the devil at this point.

Thanks.

Does it have to be an NOS rim? I have a used Wolber GTX rim here, and I've given up on finding a match to make a pair. The weird gray/green one with the yellow lettering sticker.

Heck no! If the sidewalls still have some life left and it's relatively round it’ll do just fine. PM on the way!

Just a side note that I really appreciate the kind folks on this forum, and a big shout out to [MENTION=365306]nesteel[/MENTION] who has saved my bacon more than once.

My second wheel build went that way... total bummer.

Kinda like when you buy some nice 105/Mavic wheels and then discover that some ape was using an ADJUSTABLE WRENCH on the spoke nipples. :twitchy:

I saw so much of that when working in the bike shop doing wheel repair.

Uuugh !

If you happen to see a Silver/Black '87 1000...
 

...please let me know. I'm looking for serial number 269271. Thanks!

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...-sunburst.html

Cut a piece of scrap wood (1" x 2" about 12" long), slightly concave at one end, slightly convex at the other. It has to be the right length to fit snugly better hub (at concave end) and rim (at convex end) everywhere but the flat spot. Loosen the spokes at the flat spot and jam the wood in there. It should be difficult at first, and get easier. Take it out, and do it again, adding a piece of cardboard at the rim end. Repeat until it's easy. Little by little you turn your flat spot into a bulge. Then tighten the spokes up to tension and you're good to go.

Yeah, I thought about trying to push/pull the flat spot out, but that's a job that's well above my pay grade. I’m pretty sure I’d just ruin it for good. So I was thinking I might try to pass it along to someone more mechanically adept than myself. If there’s any takers…

I'll have to find something to swap but does anyone happen to have a set of Thule feet that connect the square, yeah I know it isn't really square, cross bar to factory installed rack? I seem to be looking for either the older #415 or newer #450. These connect to the factory side rails not the factory crossbar.


I have an older fit kit that came off my '03 Windstar, I believe it is the #400XT aero foot and #2064 fit kit.

[MENTION=180800]jethin[/MENTION] - I picked up a Bottecchia a few years ago. It had a NISI rim with a flat spot. Looked like the rim that came on the bike originally. The bike was purchased from an estate sale so.....

I determined to save the rim. First was to find where the flat spot started and stopped. I used a truing stand to figure that out.
[IMG]https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/592/33...cc56574c_b.jpgP1030740, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2928/3...24f481e3_c.jpgP1030742, on Flickr[/IMG]

Using a radiused rasp, I modified a piece of scrap wood
[IMG]https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/705/33...b3bb77d2_c.jpgP1030741, on Flickr[/IMG]

Then I assembled a configuration to deform the rim back. You can see the marks for where the bottom of the "flat" is and the beginning and end or edges of the "flat." Using the C clamp, I cranked down on it.

[IMG]https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/698/33...0dab89b5_c.jpgP1030737, on Flickr[/IMG]

After several efforts, I was able to make it round again. The final product at this point in time:

[IMG]https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1614/2...cb3ff875_b.jpgP1030662, on Flickr[/IMG]

There is a tool for that but great job!

That's quite ingenious.

At what point is it a flat spot requiring these measures vs. excess radial runout that you fix with spoke adjustment? Guessing it must be a very specific depression vs more of a gradual dip?

[MENTION=403744]plonz[/MENTION] - Yes. "Flat" spot is localized. A radial run out issue is due to some spokes that are too tight with others too loose causing the rim to become oblong or egg shape or some shape (square?). This is identified with where and how much the radial run out is manifest by touching, or not, the radial run out plate, the black scraper shaped object in the first picture.

Keep in mind that when you turn a spoke nipple to tighten a spoke you are in effect shortening the length of the spoke. That is the distance from the elbow to the surface of the nipple that touches the rim decreases. Spoke tension is very important relative to the structures response to forces. The other aspect is making sure the spoke length is equivalent on each side. Tension with radial and axial run out is how we measure the "trueness" of the rim to the axle.

We typically don't talk about the axle being the reference point, but it is. The flange could be out of true with the axle but we can make up for it with spoke length and tension. We just assume that the flange and the holes on the flange are true to the axle.

The dish is measured relative to the axle nut that mates with the DS drop out, in the case of the rear wheel.

Now that I have gone all academic in my response, truing a rim to the axle is all about relationships. In fact, the bicycle and it operation is all about relationships or a complete system.

He continues to contemplate the wonderfulness of mechanical complexities of the bicycle and how it relates to life as he wanders off to work......

^So I think I'll stop worrying about seeing the hub logo through the valve hole on my next wheel build. Instead I'll position the rim where the hub and rim runouts offset each other!

Good wheel building principles there [MENTION=124730]SJX426[/MENTION]. It really is quite a marvel. First time my wife saw me build one, she couldn't believe all those loose spokes were going to support me on the bike.

Looking for a low mileage, high quality jis headset that I can use on a steerer that's been cut to accommodate a shimano 600 - about 34mm stack height. Non Shimano preferred, but I'll take a 600, DA. I have many parts if interested in trade.

NOOOO! You gotta position the valve hole over the logo! Make sure the front and back are the same. Hint: QR on the front will fix that!

Yesssss to the second coment!

thank you!

Despite my wife's acquiescing to my mechanical prowess, she still asks me to wash my hands all the time!

ISO: Stronglight Delta Crankset/BB
 

ISO Stronglight Delta Crankset and BB...The better the condition, the better...170 mm arms, double.....
BB: 118 mm Italian threads....Let me hear if any of you have anything!

Looking to replace my stolen vintage Colnago podium hat . Black baseball type with gold logo and stitching . Thanks

How could you possibly know where this is before you bring the finished wheel to tension?

The hub logo position is quite predictable relative to the spokes running to each side of the valve hole. Final spoke tensioning won't move it.

I'm pretty sure he was talking about matching the radial run out of the hub and the rim, and I'm pretty sure it was a joke. :D

ISO complete set of spoke holes. Don't need the rim, just the holes, matched set, 32 front wheel, 36 rear. Prefer NOS but some wear is okay if not too obvious.

Jim-
Thought I had some of those holes you were looking for, but checked the wheel bin and must have used them up.


But I did find a matched set of NOS tensions, 32 F&R, yours for the cost of postage if you need 'em.

Pretty sure I have some next to my bucket of spare air, I'll go check.