fixed1313

Yeah, I had looked at those as well .............. Just not the look I am going for (not that what is on there is). I think I am in love with the Caradice stuff.

wahoonc

Syke, swap the rear cog for a 22t you will be glad you did. That is usually the first modification I make to any Raleigh that passes through my hands. Get Maggie on an IGH and you will never look back. I bought my (new at the time) bride a nice GT Slipstream 21 speed. She rode it but was never really happy with it. About 6 years later we "won" a Raleigh Colt as a door prize at the ABCE Tour in MN. We added a little wicker basket and it fast became her favorite bike. She now has three Raleigh 3 speeds, I am starting the process to build her up an 8 speed, possibly a mixte. One thing my wife wants/needs is a coaster brake, so most of her bikes have been converted to S3C hubs, the original Colt came with a TCW III, not the best hub in the world, but it works. Our biggest challenge is getting bikes to fit us. I ride 64cm and she ride 42cm.

Not sure why the DK Raleighs don't come with rod brakes, probably a cost cutting measure. Though I have heard that Eastman of India parts are a perfect swap, but of pretty poor quality. Also you can have google translate websites for you.



Aaron

JBC353

Shortly after giving my wife her Tourist I swapped out the 20t cog for a 22t. She did not like, complaining that the high gear was not high enough. She does not like to spin and I don't argue. The 22t will go on the '69 gents I am fixing up.

adventurepdx

I own one of the Minnehaha bags and several Carradice ones as well. The Minnehaha ones aren't bad, they look appropriate, and yes, they are cheaper. But I feel it's definitely an example of "you get what you pay for", as the Minnehaha aren't nearly as rugged and well constructed as a Carradice. I look at Carradice bags as more of an investment. And even if you don't like it, they have a good resale value (just check out ebay for a used one!)

Sixty Fiver

Hey dude... that Carradice on the Raleigh Sports came from you and believe you got it used and despite having developed a nice patina it is every bit as good as the new Carradice I bought.

PalmettoUpstate 

My theory is that they were going for improved braking but w/o talking to their design team who can say for sure. Also noted that most of the current DK Tourist models have internal drum up front; --one appears to have a disc. ALL appear to have a coaster brake on the back!

Noting that, I'm trying to figure out what is the black thing between the rear fender and the seat stays... this is best seen on the red bike at: https://www.raleighbikes.dk/tourist-de-luxe-dame/

Thoughts anyone?

Another point worth noting; the Men's Tourist Deluxe model, at least, offers 3, 5, & 7 speed IGH's: https://www.raleighbikes.dk/tourist-de-luxe-herre/

Aaron FWIW I pretty much trust Google about as far as I can throw 'em [use IXQUICK.COM!] but I must say that the drop down that you get when using CHROME that let's you translate the lingo is pretty cool. It sorta, sorta works on that DK Raleigh website - LOL.

adventurepdx

Yep, dude! That one I gave you I bought used. I own four Carradice right now and only one of them was purchased new. I've had repairs done to a couple but that's the beauty: you can repair these bags.

We have to be careful before this turns into a "For the love of English bike bags" thread...

PalmettoUpstate 

Thanks for the link; good stuff!

PalmettoUpstate 

Yeah I'm all about buying quality where appropriate. I'll probably spring for the smallest Carradice for both my bride's and my own Sports.

On her DL-1, when I get to it and IF she isn't too vertically challenged to ride it, I'll probably do the same and it would be hanging from a B-18 "Lady" on that bike. [Thanks to Velouria for the heads-up on that perfect "piece of kit" for that particular machine!]

https://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2009/...rooks-b18.html

Now if I could just find a DL-1 for myself....

SirMike1983 

The 22 tooth is my size of choice as well.

The Danish market is pretty conservative as bikes go. I'd call their bikes more "European City Models" in the Dutch mold than true rod brake roadsters at this point. I actually have a '65 Danish market model with rods. Some of them still carry drums, but they use cables now. It's more modern/easier to get parts/probably cheaper to produce. From a manufacturer standpoint cables are the way to go today.

https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2012/...old-style.html

https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2013/...t-bicycle.html

wahoonc

Ring lock or wheel lock. I have them on several of my bikes. Pretty much standard issue on city bikes in that part of the world.

Aaron

PalmettoUpstate 

You're killin' me putting that pic of your rod brake Raleigh up there...

Regarding your first link: That is an excellent overview of the "sit-chee-aye-shun" as it exists today. The prose I'd amend is this:

"These bicycles have the sought-after full metal case around the chain to protect the rider's pant legs, as well as other add-ons friendly to hauling a day's gear. They even come with their own small pump mounted to the frame, as the old English machines did."

I'm sure we'd all agree that another reason for the full chain case is the fact that it preserves the running gear from the usual crummy, wet winter weather of Western Europe; which is somewhat approximated by our Pacific Northwest and to a lesser but still not negligible extent in our Northeast, Tidewater, and other "rust belt" areas. [not that tidewater is "rust belt" - it's the most generally prosperous region of the USA; what with all the bomb makers and spys living there - ergo: Fairfax County, Va.]

My other point is that the pumps, while definitely aesthetically pleasing, have been obsoleted by the CO2 cartridge inflators...

PalmettoUpstate 

Danka!

[Aaron #4563 ]

PalmettoUpstate 

They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and the great outpouring of 3-speed bicycles from the American manufacturers would certainly bear that out.

IMO, the Chicago Schwinn products are, in many respects, right up there with the Nottingham Raleigh products of pre-10 Speed bicycledom.

I have quite a few Schwinns now - along with quite a few Raleighs - and I have this idea of re-purposing the rusty rims and handlebars ans stems on the near-basket case bikes that will be resurrected as "beach beaters"...

Anyway, to those who care to offer advice, what I'd like to ask is whether any of the commonly available "rust remedy" paints can be applied successfully directly over the rusty parts?

[IOW, stuff like "Rustoleum" etc.]

Obviously, the final result will be sorta funky but I just can't see parting out some of these bikes just for the SA hub alone...

Here's the latest 3-speed I picked up; the drop bars are coming off and some reasonably decent "swallow" style bars are going on there. This bike can be brought back to something pretty decent so it is NOT the kind of bike of which I am speaking above... What I wanted to ask about it is how to get the bad dent out of the rear fender if that's possible. The chrome appears to be in good shape...

wrk101

I picked up this pair of 1969 Raleigh Sports Gold Editions yesterday. These may just be keepers, I really like the look. I posted them in the catch of the day thread.

I've been avoiding 3 speeds for a long time. Bought these from the original owner, they have been sitting for many years, still have original racks and pumps. One S-A hub is 15 69, the other is 16 69.

One twist shifter cratered, the remnants of it are still there. I've got a lot to learn on these two. I've also got a tired 1961 Popular Special, that could serve as a donor if need be.






The white pedals are wild!





thrifty bill

Sixty Fiver

Bill, that is a nice pair of bikes and you don't see white Raleigh pedals every day.

Give the hubs a little oil and go for a ride and check your mailbox.

wrk101

Thanks Keith, got it! I'll probably pick up some heavy weight oil tomorrow, rebuild the front hub, and give it a short ride.

I've got to pick up the donor bike that is sitting in SC right now. Drats!

73emgee

Here is another Gold Edition Sports acquired 3 weeks ago. This is on the DC Seersucker Ride along the C&O Canal, my son borrowed it to ride in the event. The Gold-Editions were produced from 1968-1973, and were considered a "budget" version of the Sports. They have Endrick rims, Twist-Grip shifter, and White mattress saddle and handlebar grips. This one has the more traditional hockey-stick chainguard. The candy Gold color really pops on a sunny day. I replaced the white saddle and grips with Black. This one will receive a proper tune-up and maintenance when I finish my current project, a 1953 Sports Tourist.


WP_20130707_015 by 73emgee, on Flickr

SirMike1983 

I used to ride my Sports on the C&O when I lived in Bethesda. I have been running basic street gumwall 26 x 1-3/8 tires on it for years. It rode OK on there, but I found it tended to have a bit of sideways bounce and hop on there. I usually stuck to the Capital Crescent up there. I've had better luck with the Raleigh DL-1 and the Hercules 650b on that sort of mixed dirt/gravel surface. Are those tires larger than the usual Kenda type for Raleigh sports or just a different tread?

fixed1313

whether any of the commonly available "rust remedy" paints can be applied successfully directly over the rusty parts?

I have not had any luck with this, it is best to remove the rust. Use a wire wheel if you don't care about the finish in the end or an OA bath if you do.

About the bike you linked to with the dented fender, the attachments don't work. I have been able to get dents out of fenders with some careful hammer work (ball peen). Go slow and back the fender up with some soft wood like pine. You will still see where the dent was but it will be straight. The following pics show the before and after on my daughters Hollywood.

Before:


After:


Hope this helps.

SirMike1983 

Yes, remove the crease and then the rust. Plain fenders like that blue one can be rolled on a fender roller/English wheel. Raingutter type fenders like on a Raleigh Sports generally get carefully hammered
out using a forming block and a ball peen hammer. Go slowly and be sure not to pound it too far out, thereby stretching/cracking the metal.

https://www.bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2...n-fenders.html

For rust cleaning, it depends on the fender's condition and the paint damage situation.

Oxalic Acid on a 1949/50 Columbia fender before and after conditions:



Here is an example of a hybrid method involving both a Dremel wire brush and Oxalic acid:

https://www.bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2...id-method.html

Between the two, I like the brush a little better.

JBC353

I have a cheapo body tool kit with 3 hammers and 4 dollies. It has been very useful for smoothing out fenders and chain guards. At the price I don't mind reshaping the dollies with a belt sander to fit the job at hand. They can be had at Harbor Freight or Amazon.

73emgee

They are 26 x 1-3/8 Kenda's.

SirMike1983 

Ah- that's basically what I have but with the smooth street tread. I love the concept of a vintage ride, especially with all the cool trails we have in the VA/MD/DC area, but I just can't get into the clothing/fashion part. For me it's all about the bikes and the ride. I'd love to see a 3 speed/vintage ride group around here like they do with Lake Pepin over in the midwest.

wrk101

OK, probably a dumb question, but the Raleigh Sports both have the cable housing stops on the chain stay. So there is no exposed cable along the DT or TT, and no pulley on the ST.

Does it work better with much less housing, a stop near the headtube on the DT or TT, and a pulley on the ST? I have a donor bike available with this setup, so I could do a transplant. The step through Raleigh Sport I picked up has a modern trigger shifter which looks out of place to me, so I will probably use the donor bike's older trigger shifter.