For the love of English 3 speeds...
#7077
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: hopewell lct NY
Posts: 192
Bikes: 1969 schwinn sting ray 3 speed stick ...1974 raleigh sports
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#7078
Senior Member
![Wink](https://www.bikeforums.net/images/smilies/wink.gif)
In more (semi) seriousness, I take it when you say "the coop", you mean Citybikes? If they don't have it, check A Better Cycle.
#7079
Senior Member
It would be a joy to go visit [MENTION=292501]Six[/MENTION]tyfiver shop and buy some parts! I went to CCC for something else I had to exchange and since I was there I thought I'd ask. Then City Bikes and they took me in the back where they have drawers of individual parts, but mostly for the AW hub. No dyno hubs or parts at all. I haven't tried ABC yet, as I ran out of time. I'm going to be in PDX for "bike stuff" tomorrow, so I might check.
#7080
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,607
Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB
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There are variants of this hub through the years. Are you sure yours is the same as the one on Master Sheldon's site? It may be you don't need the spacers at all. Did the wheel spin before you took it apart without grinding? That is often a clue that things aren't so bad.
Magnet fixing bolt: I would look for something at Ace Hardware in the stainless section, something non-metric. Find something that is too long that you can install and once in place, snap off the excess with a needlenose pliers and then file it a little so it doesn't look terrible. It may not be perfect, but it might also be that whatever is there might suit well enough that you might be the only one that knows it isn't period. Otherwise you may have to cannibalize another hub to get the same hardware... or maybe sixtyfiver really does have something laying around....
Magnet fixing bolt: I would look for something at Ace Hardware in the stainless section, something non-metric. Find something that is too long that you can install and once in place, snap off the excess with a needlenose pliers and then file it a little so it doesn't look terrible. It may not be perfect, but it might also be that whatever is there might suit well enough that you might be the only one that knows it isn't period. Otherwise you may have to cannibalize another hub to get the same hardware... or maybe sixtyfiver really does have something laying around....
#7081
I found an exploded view of a dyno hub on the web. I see 4 magnet fixing screws with corresponding nuts. It looks like you could use standard UNF threaded screws. Since they use nuts, there wouldn't even be any need for tapping. If I were rebuilding this hub, I would figure out the dimensions of the screw, go to McMaster-Carr site and see if they have any screws and nuts that would work.
#7082
Senior Member
Thanks for the information. I will start at my hardware store and see what I can find. There has to be something that works.
The hub did grind when I spun it by hand but the left cup had thick hard dried grease that was bumpy. It spins smoothly now. It came with a bunch of random spacers that were just hanging there just inside the axle nut. Exploded view of GH6 shows, from outside toward center, axle nut, axle washer (these would go on outside of fork I presume), locknut, spacer, then cone. EXCEPT, on the dyno side there is a wide "Spacing Cup" (part #GL623 ) that I don't have. I'm also missing the washers that go between locknut & cone, along with the washers that go with the axle nuts.
The hub did grind when I spun it by hand but the left cup had thick hard dried grease that was bumpy. It spins smoothly now. It came with a bunch of random spacers that were just hanging there just inside the axle nut. Exploded view of GH6 shows, from outside toward center, axle nut, axle washer (these would go on outside of fork I presume), locknut, spacer, then cone. EXCEPT, on the dyno side there is a wide "Spacing Cup" (part #GL623 ) that I don't have. I'm also missing the washers that go between locknut & cone, along with the washers that go with the axle nuts.
#7083
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
It would be a joy to go visit [MENTION=292501]Six[/MENTION]tyfiver shop and buy some parts! I went to CCC for something else I had to exchange and since I was there I thought I'd ask. Then City Bikes and they took me in the back where they have drawers of individual parts, but mostly for the AW hub. No dyno hubs or parts at all. I haven't tried ABC yet, as I ran out of time. I'm going to be in PDX for "bike stuff" tomorrow, so I might check.
I don't have much in they way of dynahub spare parts... just whole working units.
#7084
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
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Interesting curved-frame Hercules in nice shape for reasonable price.
1959 Hercules. mens 3 speed cruiser
1959 Hercules. mens 3 speed cruiser - $139 (chester) < >
![](https://images.craigslist.org/00505_7MSovJaCBql_600x450.jpg)
make / manufacturer: amf
great shape no rust ready to ride
1959 Hercules. mens 3 speed cruiser
1959 Hercules. mens 3 speed cruiser - $139 (chester) < >
![](https://images.craigslist.org/00505_7MSovJaCBql_600x450.jpg)
make / manufacturer: amf
great shape no rust ready to ride
#7085
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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It's a sickness, I know....
And this is just the garage.
![](https://bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=443389)
And this is just the garage.
#7086
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: hopewell lct NY
Posts: 192
Bikes: 1969 schwinn sting ray 3 speed stick ...1974 raleigh sports
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whats under the car cover ? a first gen camaro ? nice collection . hard to tell what they all are .
#7087
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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You're close on the car. They share similar styling cues...
1965 Corvair Corsa.
When GM decided to stop any more development on the Corvair other than yearly safety/emissions upgrades, they
focused on a more traditional replacement, i.e front mounted engine.The Camaro and Firebird were designed as Mustang fighters
and the first generation design did share some of the late model Corvair's styling...
![](https://bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=443468)
1965 Corvair Corsa.
When GM decided to stop any more development on the Corvair other than yearly safety/emissions upgrades, they
focused on a more traditional replacement, i.e front mounted engine.The Camaro and Firebird were designed as Mustang fighters
and the first generation design did share some of the late model Corvair's styling...
Last edited by gster; 04-06-15 at 07:36 AM.
#7088
Senior Member
Not English, but a three-speed. We are on vacation and decided to try and find some cheap bikes to toodle around on. We found this beaut for Ellen for $35. We'll just donate it to the local thrift store before returning home. Still cheaper than a "beach cruiser" rental. We didn't decide to do this until we got down here (Longboat Key, FL). Next time I'll bring a few tools in case adjustments are needed.
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IqMJp5vdwXo/VSKVGJgEnVI/AAAAAAAAHgA/oZsxijDIUP8/s720/2015-04-06%252010.11.59.jpg)
#7089
I am missing part # GL623 Spacing Cup. How important is this? Is there something I could get from the hardware store that would work? I'm going to a coop shortly and they have drawers of old Sturmey Archer parts.
Am missing Part # X42 & X42A (1/8" & 1/16" washers) - I could use ones from the hardware store right?
Also I managed to over tighten one of the magnet fixing bolts and broke it. Ugh. Coop is my friend.
OK. Still don't know how I'm gonna figure out if it makes electricity unless I hook it up to a real wheel. Maybe my Phillips.
NOTE: This is the page I'm referring to when naming parts numbers:
https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co...s/pic-1061.jpg
Am missing Part # X42 & X42A (1/8" & 1/16" washers) - I could use ones from the hardware store right?
Also I managed to over tighten one of the magnet fixing bolts and broke it. Ugh. Coop is my friend.
OK. Still don't know how I'm gonna figure out if it makes electricity unless I hook it up to a real wheel. Maybe my Phillips.
NOTE: This is the page I'm referring to when naming parts numbers:
https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co...s/pic-1061.jpg
As for the "Spacing cup," you need that. The hub will not work without it. I can't tell for sure from the photos of your hub as bought, but I'm guessing that it's on there. The spacing cup goes on the generator side of the hub and fits between the spacing washers (if present) and the magnet cover plate. If you don't have the spacers, it's between the "cone lock nut" and the magnetic cover plate. Force applied to the magnet cover plate by the cone lock nut through the spacing cup is what prevents the magnetic cover plate from rotating with the wheel. It fixes the stationary part of the dyno to the axle. So, if there was a part between the dyno side locknut and the dyno cover plate that's about 10 mm thick and which has two different sized holes, a small on the outside and a big on the inside, that's it. If you don't have it, you have to figure out some way to fix the stationary part of the dyno to the axle and also properly set the OLD of your hub.
So, spacing cup (or substitute), yes. Spacers to get your desired OLD.
As for your meter, you probably have little alligator clip adapters that the straight probes will fit into. They probably came with your meter or the probes. I'm always losing mine so I end up using little alligator clip leads. You may have some of those around. If not, try Fry's. Or, if you're desperate, Radio Shack. Or, you can get everything you could possible want in your life (including groceries, coffee, etc) from Amazon.
#7090
Senior Member
[MENTION=188405]desconhecido[/MENTION]- I do not have the spacing cup so when I spin the wheel the bolts spin around so I can't attach electrodes. I understand about the other washers. I need spacing cup.
#7091
@desconhecido- I do not have the spacing cup so when I spin the wheel the bolts spin around so I can't attach electrodes. I understand about the other washers. I need spacing cup.
Here's my hub spaced for 90 mm with everything but the lock nut and spacer cup removed from the dyno side.
The spacer is between the locknut and the armature. I had my terminology wrong in the previous post, but it's too late to fix it.
Here's the hub with locknut and spacer cup removed.
You can see the cone peeking out from the armature. The major big bore diameter in the spacer cup needs to be big enough to swallow the exposed part of the cone and deeper (I think) than the exposed part of the cone so that it will press against the chromed surface of the armature cover plate.
Here's just the cup:
The dimensions of my cups, which may be different from what you need:
9.3 mm thick
small bore: 10.7 mm
big bore: 14.7 mm
depth of big bore: 7.3 mm.
I forgot to measure the overall diameter -- probably about 17 mm.
If you don't have the appropriate part, probably the easiest thing to do would be to fabricate a replacement from a stack of washers with the appropriate diameters. This part would be pretty easy to fabricate from an aluminum or brass round with the proper tools.
I hate it when people say that. It's "easy" if. . . Yeah, if I had the proper tools and had a clue what I was doing, it would be easy and it would be done.
#7092
Senior Member
Or in [MENTION=355580]Velocivixen[/MENTION]'s case, I'll bet she needs just such a reason to become friends with the local cool machine shop. This was the case for a project my son was working on - what he needed he couldn't find so I said "draw up the pictures on autocad and we'll get someone to make it." He was astounded that you could do something like that (which was the whole point), and when we went to local machine shop the owner was so interested in the project he was excited to see the part in use (it was a custom pommel for my son's fencing épée). Everyone wins!
#7093
Or in @Velocivixen's case, I'll bet she needs just such a reason to become friends with the local cool machine shop. This was the case for a project my son was working on - what he needed he couldn't find so I said "draw up the pictures on autocad and we'll get someone to make it." He was astounded that you could do something like that (which was the whole point), and when we went to local machine shop the owner was so interested in the project he was excited to see the part in use (it was a custom pommel for my son's fencing épée). Everyone wins!
Opportunities lost: when we were kids, my future father-in-law was a skilled tradesman (millwright) in a paper mill. He had some light duty tools in his garage -- small metal lathe, probably an Atlas or Craftsman, some other stuff. At the time, I had no interest in what he was up to.
#7094
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
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Seen parked at the Easter Parade yesterday.
#7095
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: hopewell lct NY
Posts: 192
Bikes: 1969 schwinn sting ray 3 speed stick ...1974 raleigh sports
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took the old girl out today for the first time . she rode really good with no noticeable problems . even with the 40 year old tires . shifted and braked great .
#7096
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 85
Bikes: 1976 Raleigh Sports Trek 8.4 DS
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Something different. A 1958 Rudge. Plaid is Rad
#7097
Senior Member
Something different. A 1958 Rudge. Plaid is Rad
![Frown](https://www.bikeforums.net/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#7098
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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According to Bendix, girls don't go for guys that ride 3 speeds.
#7100
Senior Member