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Originally Posted by FPSDavid
(Post 15258677)
Hate to be posting so many pictures, but I made some bar/brifter adjustments today. How'd I do on getting everything level?
I honestly can't tell a difference from before but she looks good to me. |
Originally Posted by BoomMcNasty
(Post 15258794)
It would be different if you had an ugly bike. :lol:
I honestly can't tell a difference from before but she looks good to me. Excuse my TERRIBLE drawing skills: http://cl.ly/image/2G121o072E1f/lol.jpg |
Originally Posted by NWS Alpine
(Post 15257797)
I might be selling my Praxis Works classic chainrings. They are 53/39 if you are interested and you don't have a compact. I got a new bike and can't use my hollowgrams anymore. They would look sick on you bike and shifting performance is incredible.
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Originally Posted by Upilu
(Post 15256725)
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Originally Posted by FPSDavid
(Post 15259124)
I rotated the bars up and moved the brifters down, to make everything more flat/level.
Excuse my TERRIBLE drawing skills: http://cl.ly/image/2G121o072E1f/lol.jpg |
Originally Posted by mxw
(Post 15259210)
Looks good, I wouldn't worry about Rule #8 either, I think the bar tape matches the white on the frame well. Nice work.
gratuitous bike pic. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8506/8...7177525b_c.jpg |
Originally Posted by Upilu
(Post 15256725)
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Originally Posted by Upilu
(Post 15256725)
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Just bought these:
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7c2d50ce.jpg It's the Williams Aurora SLC with carbon rails. The rails are oval is shape. Will this fit my stock Cannondale C3 seat post adapter or do I need to buy this: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...d=400_c3ce8fff Will this ritchey adapter fit the C3? |
Any idea what the weights are for different sizes of 2013 CAAD10's frame/fork?
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Originally Posted by seymour1910
(Post 15260408)
You have photoshopped wheels on your bike before and if my eye's serve me right this is another one. Looking at therear wheel just aft ofthe crank the depth of the wheel gets thin. I may be wrong but again you have done it before.
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Originally Posted by ChuBikes
(Post 15260456)
Just bought these:
It's the Williams Aurora SLC with carbon rails. The rails are oval is shape. Will this fit my stock Cannondale C3 seat post adapter or do I need to buy this: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...d=400_c3ce8fff Will this ritchey adapter fit the C3? |
Originally Posted by FPSDavid
(Post 15258677)
Hate to be posting so many pictures, but I made some bar/brifter adjustments today. How'd I do on getting everything level?
http://i.imgur.com/gVyjGG7.jpg http://i.imgur.com/RvT4Ow4.jpg And flatten that Garmin mount! ;-) |
Shutters? That's a weird word for them.
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Originally Posted by Nagrom_
(Post 15261296)
Shutters? That's a weird word for them.
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Originally Posted by NWS Alpine
(Post 15261355)
Autocorrect :)
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Originally Posted by bianchi10
(Post 15261251)
If that position works for you then great. Personally I wouldn't like it because your drops are not level. I like to have my drops level so that would mean rotating your bars back down and sliding your shifters up to get them level. Otherwise riding it the way you have it set up, your forearms will most likely hit the top bar.
And flatten that Garmin mount! ;-) |
Originally Posted by NWS Alpine
(Post 15261160)
That is a great saddle for the price. The Cannondale post will work fine with nothing additional. Two bolt systems that clamp from the top and bottom need nothing. The adapter you posted is only for specific Ritchey seatposts that clamp from the side using a single bolt.
I'm interested in giving the Romin, and Toupe saddles a shot. The prospect of not having to order a new seatpost and/or adapter might mean I go carbon rails. |
Originally Posted by THSdrummer
(Post 15261932)
Will the C3 seatpost work for any carbon rail saddles then?
I'm interested in giving the Romin, and Toupe saddles a shot. The prospect of not having to order a new seatpost and/or adapter might mean I go carbon rails. |
Originally Posted by FPSDavid
(Post 15261903)
Only way I could see forearms hitting the top bar was if your arms were straight and locked... when bended they're not even close.
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Originally Posted by seymour1910
(Post 15260408)
You have photoshopped wheels on your bike before and if my eye's serve me right this is another one. Looking at therear wheel just aft ofthe crank the depth of the wheel gets thin. I may be wrong but again you have done it before.
Originally Posted by mxw
(Post 15260998)
Just pulled the image into Photoshop... The wheels are 'shopped in... Sneaky bugger. You can see a halo around the tires, the wheel at the chainstays doesn't run through and there's a bit of retouching at the back of the rear wheel. Nice effort though. Good eyes for picking it up. :)
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Originally Posted by BoomMcNasty
(Post 15263310)
This is the 2nd time he's done this, my curiosity is piqued. Why? If your'e embarrassed of your wheels either buy some new ones or stop posting fake pics!
Originally Posted by Upilu
(Post 15223164)
Originally Posted by Upilu
(Post 15256725)
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Originally Posted by seymour1910
(Post 15260408)
You have photoshopped wheels on your bike before and if my eye's serve me right this is another one. Looking at therear wheel just aft ofthe crank the depth of the wheel gets thin. I may be wrong but again you have done it before.
Originally Posted by bikerjp
(Post 15263878)
I think he put his frame in the dryer too.
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I'm learning to use PS :D I'm testing my skills on my bike :)
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Originally Posted by Upilu
(Post 15264200)
I'm learning to use PS :D I'm testing my skills on my bike :)
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