Looks good! Didn't know there are "graphics" in a Blank Inc CAAD.

Pretty sure outside of the subtle CAAD10 on the seat stays, the headtube badge and a small cannondale along the top tube, there aren't. 2014 graphics were berzerker green, i believe previous years were gold or silver.

That looks like a CAAD10-3 (Ultegra) frame built up with 6800 ultegra or an older CAAD10-1 (DuraAce) frame.

Did the conversion with the same Praxis BB. You need to make the BB sleeve holes lined up with the downtube and seat tube holes.

FWIW, I put 2 layer (max.) of teflon tape on each end of the sleeve to eliminate creaking. Despite what Praxis claimed, it still creaks. Or it used to, until I put that teflon tape. A teammate runs the same BB as well. His creaks as well.

http://i.imgur.com/r8QzSqi.jpg

^ sweet ride. At first glance, I thought I saw a fender on the front wheel as that crack in the wall is placed just so.

You're not alone. I skimmed over the picture and then looked back and thought, "well, that's awkward."

The bike looks great though. Interesting find with the Teflon tape. I've thought about making the switch over to a Shimano crank. I planned on using the Praxis BB converter.

Anyone else rocking a zero setback seatpost on their caad10? I ride a 56 with a 100mm stem....

I'm also ~6' with a 32" inseam. trying to figure if i should attempt a setback seatpost or not to "stretch out" the fit a bit.

Any thoughts?

I'm also 6' but I have a 34" inseam. I ride a 56 with 100mm stem and 20mm setback seatpost. I have never had a pro fit or anything, but it feels great to me. I have never had any issues.

I'm not a pro bike fitter but I had mine fitted. Saddle set back, height and tilt (crank length and cleat position as well) depend on your legs measurement. Saddle set back should not be used to stretch the fit or else it would skew the knee over pedal measurement. Instead, use stem angle and length (spacers, handlebar reach and drop as well) to stretch the fit. This is a function of your flexibility.

In my case, I was fitted with less drop (saddle to handlebar) when I started riding. As I improved my flexibility, my drop value increased but my saddle adjustment was unchanged.

Looking at your bike on your webpage, you have the saddle all the way forward with zero setback and you are thinking of having a setback? I'm guessing this is a aesthetic purpose?

If you are thinking of doing the same thing, apply a thin layer of grease before you tape the sleeve. That grease acts as a "glue". Then apply generous amount of grease after you finish taping. You might find the the sleeve OD and BB ID have a tight gap, I used a heat *** to expand the BB ID. Focus on the BB installation. Tap it gently with rubber mallet. Once it is in place, this BB must not turn, or else it might damage the tape. Undoing your hard work... Hope this helps.

Wow, well congratulations for getting that done. I know the mechanic I had tried to line up the cables with the holes but could only do it with the Praxis in backwards. I ended up with one of the quick fix, Wheels adaptors, and it's creak free. Not my ideal fix but it definitely works.

Another option is the Hawk Racing BB converter, which doesn't use a sleeve.

Your ride is absolutely sick by the way Prankster.

I am only 5'10" with a 32.25" inseam and I ride a 56 EVO with 110mm stem (same exact geometry as the CAAD10. Why are your bikes so small?
This is what I found works for me. I have had 2 pro fits in the last six years and they were within +/- 3-5mm of where I put the stuff. I no longer bother with 'pro fittings.'

I'm 5'10, 32" and ride a 54 CAAD because when I test rode a 56 my thighs rubbed against the top tube. The top of my saddle is 7" above the seat-post bolt, and I'm not sure I'd want it any closer than that.

Tried to ride a 54cm. It felt like I was riding a clown bike, just too cramped and the saddle to bar drop was way too much, I am not as flexible as I once was. But at 6' with the same inseam as I have, your torso would be 2" (5.08cm) longer than mine. The reach of the CAAD10 in 54cm is 38.3cm and a 56cm is 39.4cm is and then add about .5cm that your sitting further back on a 56cm, wouldn't that be a more comfortable fit. I know there is also a 1.4cm difference in stack, but that is nothing removing a spacer or two wouldn't fix.

Sorry Leinster, this really wasn't directed at your response, more of a general question for those 6 footers. I do understand why you would ride a 54cm, I am usually between 55cm and 56cm depending on geometry, but in the CAAD10/SuperSix EVO, the 54cm is just a tad bit too small.

Back to sheepdog84's question. The use of a setback seatpost should really be about where your body is comfortable on the bike, not about making it fit your torso. That's why I questioned the 56cm sizing. If your butt is rock solid on your saddle without riding on the "rivet" or off the back of the saddle, your current saddle fore/aft position is probably right where it should be, so where, or better, why would you set it back, now if your saddle is all the way back on the end of the rails and you still find yourself pulling your butt forward to get comfortable, then maybe a setback seatpost is the right call. Let's see, there are only three contact points on a bike, feet, ass, hands and of those three, while all important, the hands should rank 3rd. Unless you're a kid and still growing, growing around does not count, your saddle to pedal relationship does not change much in adulthood. Once that's right, why mess with it?

Just asking.

Here's my new ride:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...ps4e40ee75.jpg
2014 Black Inc Red 22

thanks for the response folks....


i do find myself wanting to push back, and my saddle is slammed all the way back... for what it's worth, here's what it looks like right now:
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=407296

Initially, this fit is comfortable... However, I find myself wanting to "scoot" back in the saddle the longer I ride... which brought me to think that a setback seatpost would enable me to do that.

I should say my inseam is more of a 31", I just buy 32" pants.

I do get a bit of elbow/knee overlap when I'm in the rivet in the drops, so I do sometimes consider getting a longer stem, but generally if I'm hammering on the flat I'm in the Invisible-Aerobar position, so no elbow problems there. I'm very happy with where my butt is over the pedals.

My other reason for getting the 54 (as well as the thigh rub) was with a view to throwing on some aerobars and doing the occasional tri, so I wanted the lowest head tube I could get away with. My stem is still at the top of the stack, but I'm able to get plenty aero as is, and the plan is to drop it down for whatever tri I happen to enter next. I will, obviously, test ride that position beforehand.

sheepdog84, before you jump on this, think about what your body is telling you and make sure that you are thinking in the right direction. Most of the time your body will naturally go to where it will be most efficient with regard to pedal/saddle relationship. It's all about you, not some mystic formula or the retro KOPS positioning, its where your body is comfortable. Now think about this, are you moving your ass because of discomfort where your body has placed it? If so, move your saddle in the direction your body has already moved your ass. If you find that you are always pushing yourself back to be comfortable on the saddle, the saddle is too far back. Move the saddle in small increments, you will find a spot that will be right under where your body wants to put your ass. It won't be some epiphany, just one of the longer rides will be over and you will come to the realization that you simply did not move your butt around much or at all on the whole ride. I would bet that if there was some sort of comprehensive study done, that most people ride with their saddles in the wrong spot for their body.

See what I am saying, it is just the opposite of what you said, you want to move the saddle back because you move your ass back to the comfortable part of the saddle several times on a ride. I'm suggesting that your body is telling you "I want my ass here, but you put that stinking saddle all the way back there, now move your ass so I can get some relief!"

Now as a result, once the saddle is where your body wants it, you may find that the cockpit is just a tad close and you might find you have knee/elbow overlap. Only when the Saddle/Pedal relationship is correct can you really address the reach to the handlebars. Likely you will find that you will also need a longer stem. All this considering that your torso is nearly 2 inches longer than mine and I am stretched out much further than you are.

Forget about all of this is you are so new to cycling that you don't have a good handle of where you should be on the bike. I don't get that from your posts, you are experienced, so your body is also experienced and it wants to be where it is most comfortable and efficient.

I tend to be very old school when it comes to bike fit, so please notice my bias to not have you on a bike that is on the smaller side of the scale. Not everyone is a 54 or 56 or 58 exactly, usually we are in between. Modern shops almost always favor smaller sized frames (maybe its because the guy selling you the bike is a teen or twenty something and thinks everyone is a racer), and its easier to make a smaller frame fit a bigger rider than making a too large frame fit a smaller rider. But if there is a choice and comfort exists in two sizes, I tend to favor the slightly larger frame size. Again I am biased, old and not very flexible, so comfort is my highest priority and how I look on the bike is the very lowest.

Playing guessing game isn't the way to go. Everybody is different. Go get a pro fit service. It is great even for avg. joe in the long run. You might have already spent more than a pro fit service fee. They could pinpoint what you EXACTLY need.

I just pulled the trigger on a new CAAD 10 105 today should be here next Thursday I will post some pics then. Can hardly wait I upgraded from a Trek 1.2.

I do. 54cm with a Thomson zero setback post and 110mm stem.

But you should try this as a preliminary fit. I get really close to what my fit actually turned out to be with this calculator. The better the measurements, the better the results.

Thanks for the input [MENTION=224802]Muffin Man[/MENTION] and [MENTION=44049]WheresWaldo[/MENTION] ... I'm going to attempt some small adjustments before i spend money....

I've wanted to use that fit calculator, but i've never felt so uncomfortable on the bike to the point where i need to revisit/remeasure everything... I've got a 110mm stem i might just try out.

also getting ready to take a gigantic certification test, so i don't exactly have all the time to do this... but next road season i'll be ready!

I mean it doesn't hurt just to double check. I got a 100mm stem with the fit calculator, and at the time of my fitting, I wasn't uncomfortable, and just wanted to double check and see how close I got. I got put on a 110 stem, and it felt absolutely great.

The fit calculator will take like half an hour tops if you do it really carefully, and it might help you out a lot. Your call though really.

looks like cannondale will be the new garmin-sharp team...which means new team colors :D. Hope they keep some green though.....

Since Cannondale is the major sponsor, I am pretty sure you will see Green Argyle and not the current Blue colorway.