Built up for under $600. This is my building cherry so constructive criticism is welcome. It is a work in progress.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=238649

is that for cyclecross?

Yeah it is. Thought I would get a little outside opinion on it.

I can't tell if this is supposed to be sarcasm or not...

"screw that I'm sticking with thew one I have"...."I cant reach all the way to the hoods that easily". If you cant reach your hoods easily that means your riding in a poor position. set your bike up properly. you just dropped $400-500 for your soul wheels? $50-$100 for a seatpost that will put you in a better riding position is well worth it. check craigslist. I got my thomson seat post for $45 and it was in like new condition. and your saddle is not level. you dont level your saddle by the rails, you level it by the top of the riding surface. you dont sit on the rails, you sit on the saddle.

I had a hard time understanding also, but with his editing saying how expensive they are, I am assuming he was being serious.

It may just be the angle of the pic, but the cables running from the brifters look prohibitively short... Can you turn the handlebars fully from side to side?

Its just the angle. The bars make it through full motion without any limitations or binding.

That post was not sarcasm, i am just clueless lol
I saved up one year to get those wheels and my dad paid for half....and I like my saddle like this, I have ridden a hundred miles without any pain or numbness. I will see if I can get a seatpost for cheap somewhere, I'm looking at ~$30. I am kinda saving up money for some other things(not related to cycling).

Good on ya for saving up for those wheels, even if it wasn't what most of us would've chosen. ;)

Check with the LBSs in your area - they often have stuff like seatposts and stems loose in a box that were taken off other bikes that you can get for cheap. You really need to fix that reach issue soon. You're still growing, and you don't want to screw up your body now - it'll come back to haunt you later.

About the seat - when you say you have 100 miles without problems, was that a hundred mile ride, or a hundred miles altogether? If the former, you're probably good; if the latter, it doesn't count. :)

i angle my arione down as well.

truth!

Sorry, Fishy, I was just thrown off by your post count on if it was serious or not :)

You have been exiled... Lol. Saving for stuff is fun. It only makes it more exciting and awesome when you actually get it.

Maybe the tall head tube with slammed stem?

HOT!!! I need a cold shower... :D

lolz, thanks :)

I am getting ready to break it down so i can touch up and polish the paint etc. Then rebuild with carbon wheels and 9 speed Dura Ace using d/t shifters. Will post another pic after.

You can actually buy 10 spd Dura-Ace DT Shifters cheaper than 9. Obviously the der and cassette and chain are more costly. Very nice Counterfit!

That merckx needs campy. I just put 10 speed campy dt shifters on a bike, it can be done

Thanks for the tip! I'll see if my LBS has something like that :)

And I mean a hundred mile ride, the saddle has around 3000 on it.

Now i am thinking 10 speed :) I have the wheels and a 9 speed cassette. But i need to buy everything else, so for the sake of buying a cassette too i could have 10 speed. Reason for Shimano over Campy is I dont want to have to buy wheels other than what I have, so I can keep the cost down. I want to come in sub 1000. Better pics when done.

Sub 1000 total or on the upgrades. Cause the Upgrades won't be much at all. The shifters are like 70 dollars! http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=34336
Plus you can easily pickup ultegra derailleurs and cassette to keep the cost down.

But if you're honest with yourself, you will be buying new wheels withing 6 months.

Want to stay sub 1000 total. I got laid off from work so I am ebaying stuff to get the cash to feed my bike addiction. Hopefully will get a new job soon and then I wont get the evil looks from my girlfriend as the packages arrive in the post lol ;) I actually live about 15 mins from the chain reaction store (haven't changes my details on here since i lived in England) I should take a trip down and save the hassle of bike stuff arriving when I have no job.

You should NOT be adjusting reach by moving your saddle! When getting fitted to the bike, you should first position the saddle relative to the bottom bracket / pedals and THEN set up the bars by altering stem / spacers / shifter position.

If you feel like you're reaching too far and your saddle is in the correct position (yet to be determined in your case, yes?) then you need a shorter stem.

New shorter stem, and a freshly cut steerer tube.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7049/6...43104bdd_b.jpg

nice, :thumb: